sluggo49

The AE was about $360 when I bought it. No idea what they want now. It has saved me at least 10 times that in parts and service expense and has made me pretty popular with the folks around here who have powerstrokes. I've seen some stuff on Torque Pro and thought I might get it. But I don't have an Android phone I'm reluctant to begin using HotShot or other additives because from what I've heard, once you start, you have to keep on with it until you get new injectors. If I start having run-time problems with stiction, I'll probably try some while waiting for a set of injectors. I thought about the AIS but haven't had any problems with the stock airbox. And it's not real dusty around here, anywayI always use Motorcraft filters (fuel, oil, air). The oil filters for the 7.3 at walmart are only $10. No discernable blowby using the oil filler cap test. On the 6.0, a previous owner had put on a Banks airbox and filter. From what I've read about the 6.0, the stock filter outperforms all the aftermarket stuff until you go to big HP mods. So I traded my Banks for a stock airbox and stuck in a brand new filter. I priced a new oem box. It was around $500 if I recall. The filter itself was pretty expensive, but it seems to last forever. I put coolant bypass filters on both PSDs. Not sure the 7.3 needs one, but it's cheap insurance. The 6.0 definitely needs one 'cause the oil cooler passages are so small. I also changed out the turbo pedestal on the 7.3 to get rid of the leaking EBP servo. Other than that, no mods. I did have an oil leak at the pan where the dipstick enters. It was not just a drip, either. So I got one of those billet dohickeys that replace the oem dipstick/pan interface and put it in. It works well but I think they got me for about $300. Still cheaper than pulling the engine or cutting the crossmember when you consider downtime as part of the expense. My 6.0 just has an egr delete installed by a previous owner. On trips I monitor the oil temp versus coolant temp since it's possible to have a catastrophic overheating situation with no warning from the stock instruments. I've toyed with the notion of just putting gauges in to monitor those items, but I'd rather work on my bikes. I did a fair amount of research before I got my 6.0 and decided it would have to be an '06 or '07 for the reasons you mentioned. It was a high mileage truck, but that doesn't bother me much with a diesel. The FTE forum has been a great place for me to learn. As far as youtube goes, the only guy I've found who is straight up and very helpful is dieseltechron. Unfortunately he was killed in an accident a year or two back. I don't know if anyone has stepped up to fill his shoes.

Those are nice!

Those sound like they'd be too pretty to use for their intended purpose. In any case, do you need a 'shroom if you have a slider?

Thanks for clarifying. I hate the notion of my bike floppin' over, but those just look ugly to me. Each to his/her own, I guess.

I haven't used their LED headlight, but other products I've sourced from these folks have been solid. https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/2000-honda-cbr1100xx-super-blackbird-vehicle-led-lights?make=32&model=2273&year=2000 In any case, they offer dimensional drawings to help decide if the bulb will fit the application, plug compatibility being only one requirement.

I thought you might get a kick out of that. I moved to NC about fifteen years ago after spending a substantial number of years in northern Illinois. It's amazing how quickly I got spoiled by the weather here.

John, where do the 'Shrooms mount? I guess I'm more curious than anything. I'm trying to imagine what "tip over protection" is.

Ain't that the case! Fortunately, we don't get a lot of snow and salt here. And referring back to an earlier post, I may try the Mapmod just for fun. It's easily reversible. And on my 6.0, its injectors hate the cold. At key-on, they go through an exercise to free them up. You can hear them clicking. When it's really cold, like below 45F, I just do the warmup cycle a couple of time before I even try to fire the engine. It seems to help, but idle is still rough at startup. I got Autoenginuity about 10 years ago when I got my 7.3, so it does fine for monitoring PIDs, but it's cumbersome to use. On long trips it would be nice to be able to monitor a couple of things without the hassle of a laptop. I run 15-40 in both trucks. If most of my miles are highway, I go 5K between changes, but if it's short hop driving, I change oil and filter around 4K. So far, so good.

Lists a phone(y) number and then yells: DO NOT CALL! He just wants to get your email address.

My '99 7.3 is a straight drive, so I'm not sure this mod would do much for me. But even so, it's no sports car and it's gonna get beat off the line by just about everything so I drive it conservatively. My '06 6.0 spools up pretty quickly when I want it to due to the variable vane turbo. It's more fun to drive than the 7.3, but I generally baby it, too. I just love the smell of diesel in the morning!

Is this where I say: "You might think I'm tough on you, but you'll thank me later."

I'm not surprised at the response you got from Andersen. I've used a lot of their products and really like them. They have been excellent with warranty work, too. They replaced multiple sections of french doors for me once the Andersen rep had a look at them. Their response was timely and quite supportive. I've had little issues, too, and they always seems to be ready with a satisfactory solution. But, like every other vendor I've dealt with, when the warranty period is over, it's over. Good luck with your repairs. There have been some good suggestions here. And don't forget to put in some gutters for that area or you will very likely continue to have problems from water.

I build a lot of houses in the area I live in now and we get a lot of rain. I learned a few things: 1) There is no such thing as a waterproof basement 2) To keep a basement or crawlspace dry, move the water away with gutters and grading (at least 6" of fall 10' from the foundation) 3) Downspouts need to be connected to drains that open to daylight at least 10' from the foundation (to a grade running away from the foundation, of course) 4) If you don't do #2 and #3, no french drain in the world is going to keep your basement dry The only time I had water in a basement was when the downspout connection to the gutter drain failed due to the settling of the fill. I fixed that connection and there was no more problem.

When I put on a new chain and set of sprockets, I align wheels and then check to see if the sprocket is centered in the chain while I spin the rear wheel. But isn't $167 a little spendy for a pocket laser and a magnet? https://www.ebay.com/p/Luster-Care-Products-L-cat-Laser-for-Cat-Chain-and-Belt-Alignment-Tool/8016731377?iid=223011109702&chn=ps