rockmeupto125

I gotcha, Tom.

Well, a brand new Grundfos for $50 more than I wanted, but now there's hot water actually circulatating. Had the 220 heaters going and swear there was a draft from the electric meter. Was going to break into the system while I had it down for the pump, but decided not to bite off more than the day would support...it took me most of the day to get a pump.

Would like info on the seat.

Okay, JoWhee, I'll consider that good advice. The heater is the cheapest 50k water to air unit I could find for a little over $300 shipped. Today's saga (continued from last night) is finding a new Taco circulating pump. I can hear it, it pulls the .8 amps that it should, and it circulates a little because the pipes warm up. But they don't warm up enough to heat the house, tinkle with expansion, or let the furnace run for more than 4 minutes before it reaches the heat limiter. No noise or bubble in the pipe that might indicate air. Can't think of anything else it would be.

Yeah...a plug in thermostat will cycle the fan on and off with the temperature at the thermostat, but it runs the fan needlessly if the furnace hasn't started heating. I want the fan running when the heater is warm. I use a dehumidifier in the summer.

Okay, not sure what to look for to do this. I'm putting a hydronic heater in the basement to warm things up down there, reduce moisture, and hopefully increase the overall heating in the house. It's basically a big heater core that will radiate heat after plumbing it in to my baseboard hot water heating system. I can order a plug in thermostat for the fan, but that doesn't make much sense to me. If there's no heat in the radiator, why run the fan? Once the furnace warms, the circulating pump will kick on, and the radiator will warm up. That's when I need the fan to come on, then shut off when the radiator cools after the circulating pumps shuts off. I guess I could wire a relay into the circulating pump to also switch the fan on and off, but I'd rather have a delay built into it so the fan runs to cool the unit down, I think that might make it last a bit longer. It is just a block of radiator and I would think there would be a lot of residual heat available. What sort of thermostat could I get that would turn the fan on when the temperature rises above a certain point, rather than below a certain point, and just has a remote sensor I could ziptie to the tubing? I'm just planning, I'd like to have this all figured out to install wihin a day.

Yeah, okay to get out of the woods, but that's just gonna take the decent teeth out of alignment.

Yeah, a little heat and a cold chisel would be a necessity. I'm not going to be able to open the clamp enough so there is a complete round. I'll get it partially open and will have to feed a shim around each spline as I gently tap it in, probably taking a couple hours and blueing the air a bit. The idea of using aluminum is that I won't be able to shape steel in that limited area to fit in the Well, If I'm taking the bolt out anyway, I could just pull the steering knuckle off the spindle, wrap the spindle and punch the shim into the valleys with a screwdriver. Or just make a cone to guide the male into the female and brute force it together as I would anyway. Hammering on the top would keep the shim in place. Guess I need to ruin a feeler gauge to figure out how thick I need to go. Which part of them is not holding air?

Not a concern, its a spindle in a bushing with a grease fitting. Did soda cans always have a plastic coating? I do not remember that from the the days when we used soda cans for rod bearings....

Clamp won't open much, so the only thing I think I could get in there is aluminum sheet. Used to use soda cans, I imagine they are a lot thinner now. You can see there is a lot of wear already.

I was outside and didn't want to spend time typing on my phone. This is my aging but willing Satoh compact tractor. The early models had a typical conical end on the spindle with the same clamp on the steering knuckle. I guess they had problems with slippage, so Satoh adopted the splined shaft and arm. This is not a classic device, although it qualifies as an antique. The splined knuckles, when they are available, are cubic money. I've thought of many solutions, and have seen quite a few as well. SwampNut's suggestion is near the top in my opinion. And I'm not above welding it together. Or drilling through it, but there's not enough meat to put a really strong locator in there. So I threw this up to get all the backyard engineering thoughts.

VID_20211216_132439818.mp4

So buy a cheap hacked off one and keep your good one pristine.

I sell them. Problem is that most of the fenders have been hacked up, which makes an undamaged fender a rare, and pricey item. And there is NO way to package it any way but oversized, although it weighs 5 pounds. Some people want to go back to stock, or make their newly purchased gem original.

I think the rotor bolts are 8mm, and ISO standards are pretty vague specifying somewhere from 4 to 12 mm of thread depending on how tight the threads are. I would not feel exceptionally comfortable with a grip at the lower end of that scale. Neither am I a certified mechanical engineer so while it may be safe, I don't like it. The lands for the rotor mount are machined from the cast surface of the hub to be parallel with the wheel centerline and by definition, the opposing machined surfaces. The area you are suggesting to thread the hub is a cast, imprecise surface and the rotor will not be true unless lady luck plays a part in the game.

Internet folklore has the inner to inner spacing of the CB1300 discs at 132mm, so it might work with a metal shim behind the disc. I'm silly, so I'd try it, but I'd certainly want the CB1300 axle and spacers to go by. The collar width, step off on the axle, and bearing width are what keeps the forks straight so they don't bind with movement. You'll need pretty accurate measurement to choose the correct bearing width to keep that width

So you have a 600RR to compare with, correct? And you measured the disc separation on the 600 and the 1100 as a comparison? By searching the parts books, you surmised that the 600 and the 1300 rotors will interchange, having the same specifications. The gap in the data is that although the 600 and 1300 discs may be effectively the same, you still don't know if the hub width on the 1300 is the same as the 600, and you can't assume the spacing without that information.

I think it's Tomek's.

The only thing you would need to know is how far apart the discs are and how that compares to an XX. From there you will know how much the calipers will need to be moved. Choose ID, OD, or measure from the middle of the disc, just do it the same way for both. I'd measure at a couple different points just on the possibility that one of your data discs is warped.

Th concern is hub spacing combined with the offset of the disc. If the discs are the same width apart as an XX, then you can spacer the hub to fit the fork legs. If not, you're going to have to spacer the calipers to match them.

Most of my Snap-On tools were new in the 1960's. The ratchet teeth are getting a little rounded. I would buy old name brand in good shape before I'd spend money on new name brand. I've rarely seen tools become better made.

Still have hair. And too many XX's.

Inside joke, Gary. More importantly, trying to generate interest. 😜

Need a chain guard?

Eurobeaner was lusting on that. Congrats on sale.