rockmeupto125

Okay, pony up. What is it?

Yeah, I was pretty much done with it at that point. I took the last two tires down too the shop and had them break the bead. I thought about using my press, but I'm not strong enough anymore to lift the tire and rim combo up into the press area and hold it. Now I have to figure out whether to rebuild the tire machine or buy another one. <Sigh,more to do>

Woof. Yeah, everybody needs tires. My cheap guy was eating his lunch and waiting for a scheduled customer so I wasn't going to pressure him. I almost asked if I could just use his machine, but it's in the back, and he's like a hoarder, so that's his private place.

All of them. My tire changed made a hissy expensive sound. All the local guys who wouldn't charge me $25 to break a bead were too busy, which is why I have my own equipment so I don't have to chase all over and spend my time waiting for someone else. 🙄. But I have this hydraulic press. Took three tries with the front wheels off the ground before it popped off. Two more to go. Then I'll change the door handle that broke off in my hand this morning. 🙄🤗🙄

So this is a gunfighter and lady seat, not a gunfighter. I did not think there was a backrest option for a gunfighter.

Absolutely. It is not about the money, although $45 in my pocket is better than $45 in Gibbons Powersports till. If someone needs a tire now, I got it. The thing most precious to me is my time.

They're well used, but I throw them in there to add some authenticity to my photo documentation.

I guess we'll see

Seems like the price point is around $600 minimum for a bi-directional tool that works with OBD and CB based systems. A regular TPMS tool looks like $150-$200 on Amazon, not sure how they are selling them for $75 on FB.

I was looking for something that would program multiple makes. Regarding TPMS, tutorials are very vague and black art-ish. Apparently there's programming, relearning, cloning, and all on different platforms. I just want to be able to find and replace the non-working one without spending an entire afternoon inflating and deflating trying to logic the problem to death. I also would like to switch to my winter rims without spending time at the garage and paying for that service. Granted, I could put a piece of tape over it, but it is a useful tool, why not utilize it.

👍

Do any of our weekend garage monkeys use a TPMS reprogramming tool? Looking for one myself, cuz I have too many vehicles and they most all have monitors with failing batteries.

I am no longer the guardian of these items. Care had been assumed by someone who is by far much crazier than myself.

Troy inches?

I don't think they did numbers, SAE, metric, or whitworth. Probably rule of thumb.

So as part of the whole mess, the load bearing walls are on 2ft centers, as are the trusses in order to maximize the load bearing capability of the roof. However, the non English speaking crew that erected the structure apparently didn't do numbers either, so some of the open areas are 28 inches, some are 22, and that means that each piece of insulation has to be cut individually to fit where it's gonna go.

It was fun project idea, but time is shortening, and the project has lost priority with me. Part of retiring is shedding myself of things that no longer matter, like in your rear view mirror.

Maybe, but might take a lot, multiple coats over the dark surface and not sure how absorbent it is. Several good points. I do question that you get 1 inch polyiso foil faced insulation for 13 dollars. The link you posted is r2.9, the 1 inch poly is r5.8. it would cost me about $1200 for that new insulation to cover 1600 sq ft. I'm about to set it all on fire. Oh wait...it won't burn.

They do make foamboard with foil radiant facing. I paid $7.50/4x8 of non-foil faced, and I'll have to cover it myself. I found 5 gallon pails of generic liquid nails for $80, which would probably work well to adhere the sheeting. I'd just have to split it into smaller containers so it doesn't set up while I'm working. I'd rather something a bit less viscous, but that's the cheapest I've found yet other than wallpaper adhesive, which is basically starch.

So many projects that I will never have time for and the fire has waned. I have two early 90's VFR swingarms free to board member paying shipping for one or both. I thought an SSA conversion would be fun too do. It would, I don't have the time. Maybe you do, and if so, here's a good start.

Which one are you referencing?

It's been a while, but as I recall, you have to unbolt the subframe to jimmy the plug through. Or, you can take a pick and unloose the connectors from the plug, feed them through, and snap them back into the connectors.

I want to bond sheet plastic as a radiant barrier to Glass Reinforced Fiber (GRF) facing on polyiso insulation. Both are pretty inert. I wonder if wallpaper adhesive would work. That's like $90/5 gal. I did find some subfloor adhesive for $80 as well.

Looking for a cheap solution. I am looking for a relatively inexpensive adhesive (I'm thinking maybe 5 gallon bucket) that I can apply with a brush. I want to adhere thin (8 mil) plastic sheet to a fibrous backing, kinda like a pressed cardboard. Small pieces up to 4'x8' pieces. There's no mechanical stress to the bond, no significant moisture component or exposure to the elements, and there's mechanical fasteners as well. I really would just like a small amount of adhesive to keep the plastic flatter to the board. Any suggestions? It's hard to google something this specific, especially with the poor performance of real results from the search engine. Thanks!