rockmeupto125

You don't have to take off any panels, just reach up underneath. Not so easy to do, though. You'll find some new ways to bend your arm, and probably some new words as well.

About 5 seconds before the solenoid kicks out. I had some quiet time with the hood open and a modicum of cooperation so I could hear. Key on, turn to crank, solenoid clicks and clunks into place, no crank. Repeated this times 5, went and bought a starter. Apparently the Ford has an OEM "can't get that bolt from here" bolt. Took me a while, but I got it. The real kicker was it appeared the previous skilled technician broke one of the bolts off and drilled it out just a wee bit off center before jamming a bolt in from the back side, so at least I had something to hang the starter on. After I went and got the core back is when I realized they hogged out the mounting hole so the last replacement starter could go in. I wasn't quite as subtle, but if you pay for a cutoff saw, it needs to earn its keep. Starts and runs, back to baseline

Project on hold until I diagnose and fix the slightly intermittent no crank condition (which means it occasionally starts). Pretty sure its a solenoid, rule out starter and ignition switch. Unfortunately the solenoid and relay are on the starter, unlike Fords of yore which one could spin over with a screwdriver in 4 seconds once the hood was open. <sigh>

So like furs video. Yeah I watched it and many like it. This is not what the truck is doing. It stutters when it's cold or under a good load, almost never when it's warm, and it comes, leaves a 301 code, and leaves. Otherwise nothing. 20230401_071552.mp4

To answer your prior question, yes, the red truck is gone, good riddance. It's complicated checking mileage, but I'm trying. It uses CNG until the pressure is too low to actuate the system, then switches to gas. So to figure CNG mileage, you have to make sure to get it, before it runs out, and it has to have a good sized sample because of pressure changes with temperature and such. And to figure gas mileage, it has to be run out of CNG. Bluntly, I haven't put enough miles on it to get a good figure.

Motorcraft plugs that were purchased from one of the local parts houses. Marty changed them before I bought it, he said they looked original, as in corroded as all get out, and the lower plugs were worse than the uppers. At best, it's slightly auditory and a stutter that's significant for 5-10 seconds then seems to slowly and gradually resolve to running smoothly. At worst, the miss is obvious. Loss of power that doesn't seem consistent with a single cylinder along with a judder and change of engine note. Today I took it on an 80 mile trip. A little stutter when getting on the highway 2 miles from the house, but didn't throw a code, and no pending codes registered. Smooth ther rest of the trip with several stops and a couple shutoffs.

I've seen that thread, and spent quite a bit of time trying to research even before I bought. My head scratcher is that it is inconsistent, and rarely occurs once the truck is warm. There's no secondary indication of a sticking valve such as weird noise from the intake, ticking/tacking, backfire, etc. And the CNG conversion has upgraded seats, valves, and springs. And if its mechanical, it shouldn't be intermittent. Metal doesn't break and unbreak randomly. But I suspect the compression test is next. Those spark plugs are BURIED in there.

I forgot to mention I can't run a mode 6 scan. I don't know why. Perhaps its a function of the ECU flash for the CNG conversion, but it wouldn't make sense to disable any of that for CNG. Iceprick, you should see these plugs in comparison to what you just suffered through. Threaded portion is about three inches long, I swear.

Okay, I picked up that truck I yammered about in the Pub. It's a 2015 Ford F250 Superduty 6.2 gas, 4WD Supercab equipped with factory duel fuel CNG. I get the impression of an abused mule. We're not really communicating. Not too long after I got it, I noticed some jerkiness that led to a P0301 code for a misfire on cylinder 1. I drove it for a bit, thinking some fresh gas might just straighten it out. It didn't, and the miss got worse. I bought a generic coil to replace the original. A quick review might be important here. The 6.2 in this year had a dual plug head. A coil over plug has an output for a traditional type of plug wire to transfer to the second spark plug. So I changed the coil, and things seemed to be better but not perfect. Shortly before NotRacer, I took the truck out for a long shakedown run, and low and behold, under heavy load, I again was able to generate P0301 several times, and once a P0308, although once is an anomaly. My "once bitten twice shy" side rented a truck from Enterprise to haul the trailer to Florida. Not doing that crap again stuck in Nowhere In The Mountains (Actually it was on Tater Hollow near Hillesville, VA). Now I'm messing with the Ford again. I swapped the spark plug wires from cylinder 1 and cylinder 2. I had changed the coil and still got the code. So now I swap the wire. If it's the wire, it should give me a P0302. If the new coil is not good, I'll still get P0301. And I still get P0301. Then I put the number 2 coil on the number 1 cylinder. And I still get P0301. Sigh. I'm trying to research what parameters trigger the misfire code, and all I can find is a deviation of greater than 2% engine rpm between consecutive cylinder fires. So what then? I've got a single cylinder misfire that does not follow the coil or the second spark plug wire. The truck has new spark plugs. even if one was bad, the other should provide adequate combustion, it being new and all. It's intermittent, and mostly occurs before full warmup. It does it whether it is running on CNG or gasoline. Each fuel has its own injector. There's nothing that would make me think it is air delivery. Changing spark inducing parts doesn't make a difference. Again, there's no reason to consider that both fuel systems are faulty in exactly the same way. And it's intermittent, which kinda rules out a broken valve spring, low compression, or mechanical fault. Arrrgh!

Hank, it looked familiar, but I didn't have time to do the research on it.

Actually, the VT reg should be enough to get you a title in most states.

No title "due to age." Right. Even I have a birth certificate, and I'm damn near salvage.

Entirely possible. Could just delete anything more than a year old. One thing that would deter me is that there is technical information and possibly pricing indicators for others looking to sell or buy similar items in a very specialized market.

More to come

Not of it getting 19 mpg I can put a couple up tomorrow of it getting 0 miles per 0 gallons.

Absolutely correct. My error. This is a 2500 2WD. It does not have the body rise of a 2500HD, so it is easier to get in to, and cannot accomodate the larger 8.1 or duramax engine, nor the manual ZF or Allison trans. It does have the heavy duty suspension including 8 lug wheels.

Yeah, chalk that up to one of the stupendously stupid things I've done. An extra day to spend, warm weather, an extra set of hands, and instead I head north, park the truck because it's finally leaking too much, rent a car to get Jess home and head back the next day to change a water pump in 40 degree weather. Took me about 2 hours total and I could have saved a raft of trouble. Make mistakes, they said. Get smarter, they said. Errrrrr....

Hey all, trying to get my life moving again. I can't maintain this fleet of vehicles. If you're in northeast US of A and are looking for a good work truck, this may be for you. Of course, I don't care where you are, but possession/delivery might take some head scratchin' if you're in Kansas. My Chevy Silverado is on the block. It's a 2500 series, 3/4 ton but it is 2WD, therefore not a 2500HD. Regular cab (2 door), 275,000 miles and has been a reliable, good running truck. It has the 6.0 liter engine, 4L80e trans and 3.73 G80 differential, which means it has a sort of positraction that kinda works. Towing package so it has heavy duty springs and rear disk brakes. It is originally from North Carolina and the frame/body are solid, but after 13 years in the north the rocker panels have rusted through and there is slight bubbling over the rear wheels. I've put 100,000 miles on it after buying it in 2011. If it wasn't a standard cab I'd never consider selling it. But here we are. Things I remember replacing include the carrier bearing, differential cover, water pump, alternator, radiator, shocks and power window motors because that's a GM thing, apparently. Obviously consumables like batteries and tires. The seats were ripped and I found some nice ones, so they got changed. The AC doesn't work. It's pulled everything I've put it in front of. Towing a large enclosed trailer at 75mph is 8mpg. I recently towed an 8500lb truck on a 2500lb open trailer from lower Virginia to northern PA and got 12 mpg at 60-65. Empty with cruise set on 55 it gets 19-21mpg, no fooling. Around town is 14.......doesn't go into overdrive until 45mph minimum. Post up or message me with any interest. Pictures available if there's interest. Asking $3000 on other venues and I always do better for forum members

Cluublights, post or private message me a list of what you still need. I'm finally getting dug out here

Sach, because of the vagaries of autocorrect in our lives, I want to clarify. NEVER adjusted valves....or NEWER adjusted valves?

Disconnect the power commander if it has one. Replace the fuel pressure regulator.

I have no clue what I'm doing anymore.

Has to stay open so that if a member can't access, they have a way to communicate a need for assistance. At least it's only a small place to keep tidy.