cbrbear

There are 5 needle positions, one clip per needle, they give you 4 extras incase you loose them. They can be a bugger to put on and sometimes fly acrossed the garage so there are spares. The cominations are: w/stock pipes SS2r/Zyclone w/aftermarket race exhaust w/above and BMC / K&N air filter now my CBR1000F kit was a lot more explicit with details as far as application but I dont think that there are any major differences between slip ons or race exhausts these days, minor but not major enough to with the jets provided you cant make it work. Factory even has a setting for improved stock performance with no slip ons and thats change outter carbs (cylinders 1 and 4) to a 142 main jet and put 1 shim under each needle, I think thats the setting but its supposed to add a few ponies to a stock bird. This is from factory racing not my personal experience.

just an FYI I get factory parts at a 50 percent discount. I opened my TI kit and here is what it had. 4 adjustable needles, 8 e clips, new bowl screws (bolts really with allen heads) some tool, 4 sets of main jets, stickers, and directions for 3 different exhaust/intake combo's.

Ok Factory jet kits come with 4 adjustable needles usually 8 e clips, depending on the application I have had up to 3 different size main jets and 2 different size pilot jets provided along with new screws for tops and bottoms of the carbs (nice allen head instead of stripping phillips) they also give you a chart for specific arrangements. I have a spare TI kit here at the house that I will be installing as right now I have the standard kit in the bike.

That is what I have gathered from all the info in here... wish I had found this place before I modified my bird. Oh well she still turned out ok and as much as I dont like the petal style rotors on mine, the center hub is gold so it works out!

So what I gather then is that you will need a 99 and up axle since the rim comes with the spacers already?

I am going to have to disagree with part of that post, bearing size, and bolt pattern size considering pretty much all honda wheels bearings are the same through many models, and from talking with the techs at EBC and Galfer the ID is 4mm larger and they said that was for the rotor its self not the carrier, they claimed the carrier bolt patter and size is the same, but either way if you bought a 99 and up wheel with 99 and up rotors as far as I know it would work. I would try it out on a cheap used ebay wheel or something before I go spending 1500 on a rim and 500 on rotors. Chad oh and to actually answer your question, axles should be the same!

If you dont want to deal with it, try out the CTS moto or whatever wheels that are real similar, aluminum and are about 1380 a set vice 3000!!! THey make them for all years in 3 colors, gold, silver, and black.

Here is what I went by, cush drive same, spacers same, and rotor same, so wheel has to be the same. Different part number is prolly due to color code. They did change the type of black on newer models and they also had silver wheels. That and I had a 2002 on my rear wheel that is now either being sold or going on my 87 1000F

Ok REAR wheel no difference, front wheel there is spacing differences and since most high performance aftermarket wheels come with spacers as part of the hub then the rotors wont match right. The 99 and up rotors have a 4mm different offset and a 4mm different ID for the actual rotor (that info I had to get from EBC) so basically put front what I can tell if you were to change wheels and rotors everything should work great because the tripple clamp spacing is the same for 97-2006. I have never tried but to the best of my knowledge the forks are the same, the tripple clamps are the same and so are the calipers.

:icon_clap: I literally fell out of my chair after reading that. I am glad that you were able to fix the issue just hope there was no damage done!

Ok let me get this straight, it cranks but does not turn over? Do you mean it turns over but doesnt fire? Is it possible your kill or on off switch on the handle bar has faulted? I dont know if the blackbird will turn over if its in the off position but I know my CBR1000F's would and that was the culprit one time.

If the battery was dead and you charged it but didnt fully charge it, you can actually fry your regulator rectifier. Just like in a car the alternator is a generator with a voltage regulator and the part that fails is the voltage regulator. Anyways if you check ebay you can find aftermarket regulator rectifiers for a decent price but more than likely that is your problem. I have only seen a few bikes that have issues with the stator and its generally a result of a wreck and the engine case was damaged and it damaged the stator below (most common on dirt bikes)

Your air fuel mixture screws could be improperly adjusted from jetting, your choke could be stuck (happened on my buddies VTR1000) cable moved and he "thought" it was working fine when in fact choke was always on and he thought it was strange he had to adjust his idle way out..... I get on a nice road trip 220 or so before I have to stop, fuel light comes on around 180-200.

[attachmentid=4865]Custom rims that come all set up and the only thing you have to do is mount tires and rotors are DYMAG! Sure they are a bit pricy but I have a set on my bird and they are SWEEEET! 3 spoke carbon fiber rims, rear came in 6inch and they are SOOOO light. I didnt weigh them myself but they have to be at least half the weight of stock so added HP!!!!

Ok front wave rotors for the Carb bird.... ABE makes them and Galfer will make them but you have to send in your stock rotors and that adds a lil extra to the already high price! Rear wave rotor is the same from 97-06 so any one fits all! I personally have ABE petal front rotors and Galfer rear rotor with the evo III de link kit and galfer sintered pads! Chad