superhawk996
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Posts posted by superhawk996
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I have the same .308 set but without the micrometer. Does the micrometer make seating any more precise or is it just to make it easier to make changes? I assume that if it uses the same seating plug it wouldn't make a difference to precision.
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Paint
in The Garage
Holy crap, DIBS!
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Paint
in The Garage
Unless you've owned it since new and have never let it out of your sight there's no way to know what may have happened. As for the paint, you could go to a paint supply place with it and have them color match and blend you up a spray can of an exact match, but likely that any gloss black spray paint would do since you can't see both sides at the same time to see that it doesn't match. I don't think the temperature there would demand a high temp paint.
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And when you roll the volume control all the way up you can really feel and hear it almost accelerating.
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If the bird is too buzzy, and it wasn't a broken one, I think you need an electric bike.
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Absolutely DO NOT do the R1 RR. You should continue on your own path of finding something else that will work.
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Pretty sure the only connection that can raise the voltage would be the regulator ground since it needs to send all the 'extra' power to it. Bad connections elsewhere should lower the voltage. It would be nice if the stator were regulated the way a car alternator is.
How long did the voltage spikes last?
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That would be way too simple
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My guess is that someone crashed it right after buying it and it sat. This many years later it was resurrected to sell; the fuel pump pretty much tells that part of the tail. I'll bet that if he didn't give the details it would sell faster, but I'm sure there's someone out there that'll be delighted with a low mile bike that has a bunch of new parts.
And yea, the rear looks tweaked.
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10 minutes ago, paul99xx said:
My old mechanic was talking up regrinding the exhaust cam, he built a blackbird with the exhaust reground, power commander, 4 into 1 and high comp. pistons, said it did power wheelies at 120mp/h.
At 120 indicated with the likely geared down sprockets, or a true 120? Regardless it's not indicative of a bike capable of 200MPH.
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I'm a bit shocked that this is being entertained.
Tom, your bike's speedo reads about 10-12% high unless it's been recalibrated (assuming it has stock sprockets) so the 175 you saw was 155ish. I've been to an indicated 192 on a slightly modded '99 Bird which would calculate to under 170, the truth sucks. If you're after a 200MPH ride from the Bird it's going to take a fuck ton of engine work or boost. Boreing it to the maximum that the cylinders allow might get you 10% of the way to your goal. If you have an unlimited budget you can get there without boost, but boost is probably the only realistic way. To reach 200MPH you'll need well over 200HP, the cheapest solution would be nitrous. Based on what I've read I'm glad that you'll likely be doing your speed runs a safe distance south of me.
I don't want to discourage you from enjoying and modding your Bird or being a member here, but you do need to grasp reality and 200MPH is very unlikely for you. I also suggest paying some amount of attention to your grammar. You don't have to be a scholar to get along here, but we aren't that usual forum that will understand and entertain gibberish either. There's a wealth of knowledge and humanitarianism encased in the .org and if you fit in you'll benefit from it.
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It comes on after running out of fuel, how does that work?
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7 hours ago, redxxrdr said:
Note: the XX does not turn off the low beam bulb when high beam is on, so the high beam start trick won't work for it..
I'd never noticed that. On other bikes I would often get the switch to stay in between to have both beams, never felt I needed to on the bird and now I know why.
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On May 19, 2016 at 7:56 AM, ironmike said:
I put my XX HIDs on a separate (illuminated) switch so I don't have the headlight(s) tax the battery during engine starting--it really does make a difference.
The headlight turns off while cranking unless you've changed the way it's powered.
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On May 21, 2016 at 6:13 AM, OMG said:
I have non OEM wheels on the bird and cleaning them and changing the front sprocket I noticed that the rear sprocket is bolted solid.
It does have cush bushings in the hub but the plate that secures it clamps it tight.
This don't sound right at all. The part that the sprocket bolts to is also bolted to the wheel?
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Full eBay price, I'll give $99.99 for them no arguments.
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Interesting that the valves don't rotate at all until super high revs, doesn't seem right. The follower set up is pretty trippy.
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It was once the fastest color, now it has faded into a receptacle.
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Not much, I'll give you beer money for them.
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Since it tested fine last year it's good to go. I can assure you that it'll be completely reliable until it's not. You should avoid testing the battery and charging system if at all possible.
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I think the rum had taken over, in my brain switching sides made them the same dirrection. I've noticed arrows on many of them. The carb bikes have a different offset than EFI, but I think all the early are black and late are gold so that should identify them. I bent one on my SuperHawk doing a tire too, I was chapped but It straightened itself. If yours isn't bad you could try riding it and see if it comes back.
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If they're directional you need to post up which side you need, but I don't think they are.
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2 hours ago, Aunt Sylvia said:
SH775 has been known to have issues over 10K RPMs.
This effects you how?
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That white crud was probably aluminum oxidation and it won't conduct heat or electricity well at all. Rick's stuff seems to be very hit & miss.
Paint
in The Garage
Posted
Are you saying that a bad stator will toast the paint on the stator cover?