superhawk996
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Posts posted by superhawk996
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2 hours ago, XXBirdSlapper said:
I have just the opposite goal. A peg highering kit??
Same here, I wound up installing some Gille's and have them at max height. I assume you could do the same as in the photo but upwards.
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5 hours ago, The Krypt Keeper said:
Hard to beat a 22-250 hammer for that particular need,
The hmr .17 hammer is also amazing with some ballistic tip nails. Read of 1,000 yard hits on prairie dogs. But its so light cross winds throw off the nails easily. But still very effective.
22-250 would still be my go to for what you are looking to do.
Or just bite the bullet (pun intended]
.338 laupua
But guess that would be like hitting a roofing nail with a 20lb sledge hammer
The guy next to me today was shooting a braked Lapua, fucking asshole. He was actually a really nice guy, but FUCK.
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15 hours ago, FarmerXX said:
Paper trail free on the Left Coast... Good for you. The .22WM usually pushes what, a 35 - 40gr? Maybe a bit on the light side, but would work.
The MAS in 308.. Do you know who did the conversion? I hear some were excellent, most were crappy. I just don't know the French firearm... but one day I hope to get some range time with one.. I really like the 308 as my GHOOD and all purpose round.
The 338WM, what's it in? 77 series? Perfect for my elk hunt that probably won't happen. I honestly don't know if I can load it light enough to not punish this old man every time I squeezed the trigger...
When the time comes, the big 'un and / or the little 'un (.22WM / .338WM) are probably two I'd consider taking off your hands... Hell, I need to rebuild a hammer collection.. I'll consider anything with a purpose.. I'll PM you my info..
I have no unregistered hammers, nothing here to see; it's So.Cal. for fuck's sake!
I've only shot 40gr. CCI hollow points, but there are 35s too. The box says they do 1875FPS, my chrono says they only do about 1875ish out of my gun. I put it on paper today for the first time and only second time shooting it. 100yrds. with the stock irons and made 4 or 5 out of 10 on a 3" sticker; I was pretty pleased. Hit some steel about 4" wide at 200 which was amazing.
I have the papers on the MAS here somewhere, but don't recall the specifics. I read that they can be ammo finicky favoring the lighter 7.62X51 and disliking .308. I loaded up 50 rnds. from min to max 7.62 book loads with some cheap bulk powder and bullets and also bought some .308 and it shot them all with no issue. Can't speak to accuracy as I was just shooting stuff we brought out to the desert, but it functioned and shot well. It was definitely hitting within minute of can/bottle/rock/cactus from up close to kinda far so it's confirmed to be dead on accurate! I cranked the sight up to 400 meters and shot some stuff way up on a hill and hit it too. Haven't been able to test the grenade launcher for accuracy, but at least it's all intact.
The .338 is a 77 as you suspected, Mark2 stainless on a beautiful wood stock. I have a love/hate relationship with it. It's beautiful and bad ass, but punishing if loaded to full power. My GF shot it last weekend and scoped herself, got some blood. Today I scoped myself for the first time ever, just a tap on the nose to let me know I needed to get a better position; I knew I was in a bad position but figured it would be ok. I'm also trying out a Chinese scope that has short eye relief, the scope it came with is likely better suited and will probably go back on. I talked to an old timer today at the range, he uses lighter bullets in his and it hits more acceptably while still reaching out to 500+ pretty well. I've been shooting 200 and 250 gr. bullets loaded somewhat hot and it hurts. It's got about 70 rnds. through it now. I have no hunting plans and just wanted a scoped rifle to do some semi long range target shooting with and this fell into my lap so I grabbed it. It can be loaded down but I thought I wanted to swing the big sledge.
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On June 21, 2016 at 8:17 PM, XXitanium said:
.308 original Win. mag.?
...reach out and touch something.
Just too big for regular game in nothern WI.
I don't believe a .308 win mag exists. There is the .308 Norma Mag, first high power gun I shot back around 1990ish and I may just buy it now that it's become available to me. There may be some other .308 mag variants I don't know about.
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A few on my likely to sell list: .22 Magnum bolt action, Ruger .44Mag. RS carbine, MAS 49 in .308, Ruger .338 WinMag. All will take a yote, the latter 3 with extra authority. All are paper trail free. All but the 308 are going out to play tomorrow, didn't have the desire to load up .308s and only have about 15 left.
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While the rod is out roll it on a flat surface to make sure it's perfectly straight.
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You've done quite a bit to make it nice, good job.
A good solution for the spare is underneath the bed somewhere. It not only frees up tongue space for a tool or utility box but also keeps the tire shaded extending its life.
Many couplers are adjustable and I've seen them so loose that they'd clear the ball when locked. You don't want it clamping the ball hard, but minimal free play.
Check the springs, mounts, and U bolts; visually inspect everything and put a wrench to each fastener to make sure they're tight.
Check the lug nuts and recheck them after 25, 50, 100 miles re-torqueing as needed; something about the way trailer wheels are made they tend to compress or something. They'll stop loosening within a few tightenings. Also verify that they haven't been cranked down by a mad man with a mega impact gun so hard that you can't remove them with your road-side tool, that sucks balls. My friend forgot to re-torque his on a sea-doo trailer and I got to see the joke of having your tire pass you on the freeway. It went across the lane to our left then following the camber of the road it crossed in front of us as we slowed stopping on the right shoulder leaned against the k-rail with no incident other than a ground up trailer hub. That wheel had been installed by a shop about 50 miles before it came off. Had it continued going left there would have been 7 or 8 lanes of fairly heavy traffic for it to play with. We were in a spot where 3 freeways join & split in an area where half the drivers are Asian, that coulda been a serious mess.
Spin each tire and make sure the bearings are smooth & quiet with minimal free play. If there's any amount of grumbling noise replace them. Complete bearing kits are cheap, grease is cheap; being flat-bedded home because a hub and axle got destroyed isn't cheap, especially if the cargo or a following car gets trashed in the process.
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There's no need to bolt it down at all four corners and with a bike on it no bolts/nuts are needed just something for them to hook onto. I would use just the studs at the front and add wing nuts only for empty transport to keep them from being able to bounce off. It's not a lot of work to swap them so I get it, just suggesting it could be even easier.
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15 hours ago, T REXX14 said:
Damn we need to get another Westcoast bash going again!
It's only been like 14 years; what's the rush?
And yes.
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Paint
in The Garage
1 hour ago, blackhawkxx said:Just to my untrained eye, I am guessing that the aluminum oxidized under the paint. I didn't pick at it as I didn't want the paint to come off. The winter to spring change makes my garage very damp but if the paint is sealed over the case, it is hard to see how it oxidized. I may just bite the bullet and buy new to give me another 20 years. When I get around to it, I may throw a meter on it to check the charging just to rule out that possibility.
I'm surprised you can still buy new black ones?
Hit it with zinc chromate primer first and it could last 20 years under water. There may be better things out there, but it's the only primer I've used for aluminum as the only aluminum I've painted is for boat outdrives & outboards and that primer is what everyone uses for marine stuff.
I'm 99% sure that the stator couldn't heat it enough to have bubbled the paint even if it fried, there are much hotter parts of the engine and I assume they all get the same paint. It was most likely flawed from the start or road debris damaged the paint and allowed humidity to start working at it.
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I probably shouldn't, but it looks sexy and I'm very curious to play with it so yup.
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Paint
in The Garage
Are you saying that a bad stator will toast the paint on the stator cover?
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I have the same .308 set but without the micrometer. Does the micrometer make seating any more precise or is it just to make it easier to make changes? I assume that if it uses the same seating plug it wouldn't make a difference to precision.
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Paint
in The Garage
Holy crap, DIBS!
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Paint
in The Garage
Unless you've owned it since new and have never let it out of your sight there's no way to know what may have happened. As for the paint, you could go to a paint supply place with it and have them color match and blend you up a spray can of an exact match, but likely that any gloss black spray paint would do since you can't see both sides at the same time to see that it doesn't match. I don't think the temperature there would demand a high temp paint.
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And when you roll the volume control all the way up you can really feel and hear it almost accelerating.
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If the bird is too buzzy, and it wasn't a broken one, I think you need an electric bike.
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Absolutely DO NOT do the R1 RR. You should continue on your own path of finding something else that will work.
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Pretty sure the only connection that can raise the voltage would be the regulator ground since it needs to send all the 'extra' power to it. Bad connections elsewhere should lower the voltage. It would be nice if the stator were regulated the way a car alternator is.
How long did the voltage spikes last?
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That would be way too simple
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My guess is that someone crashed it right after buying it and it sat. This many years later it was resurrected to sell; the fuel pump pretty much tells that part of the tail. I'll bet that if he didn't give the details it would sell faster, but I'm sure there's someone out there that'll be delighted with a low mile bike that has a bunch of new parts.
And yea, the rear looks tweaked.
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10 minutes ago, paul99xx said:
My old mechanic was talking up regrinding the exhaust cam, he built a blackbird with the exhaust reground, power commander, 4 into 1 and high comp. pistons, said it did power wheelies at 120mp/h.
At 120 indicated with the likely geared down sprockets, or a true 120? Regardless it's not indicative of a bike capable of 200MPH.
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I'm a bit shocked that this is being entertained.
Tom, your bike's speedo reads about 10-12% high unless it's been recalibrated (assuming it has stock sprockets) so the 175 you saw was 155ish. I've been to an indicated 192 on a slightly modded '99 Bird which would calculate to under 170, the truth sucks. If you're after a 200MPH ride from the Bird it's going to take a fuck ton of engine work or boost. Boreing it to the maximum that the cylinders allow might get you 10% of the way to your goal. If you have an unlimited budget you can get there without boost, but boost is probably the only realistic way. To reach 200MPH you'll need well over 200HP, the cheapest solution would be nitrous. Based on what I've read I'm glad that you'll likely be doing your speed runs a safe distance south of me.
I don't want to discourage you from enjoying and modding your Bird or being a member here, but you do need to grasp reality and 200MPH is very unlikely for you. I also suggest paying some amount of attention to your grammar. You don't have to be a scholar to get along here, but we aren't that usual forum that will understand and entertain gibberish either. There's a wealth of knowledge and humanitarianism encased in the .org and if you fit in you'll benefit from it.
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It comes on after running out of fuel, how does that work?
easy peg lowering
in The Garage
Posted
Smart simple solution, and thanks for sharing it.