superhawk996
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Posts posted by superhawk996
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I was planning to go M1 15-50 and couldn't find it quickly so I went 15-40 just to get it done. It had a Honda filter so I'm guessing it was a motorcycle spec. oil, but it was a little darkened and the filter showed age so I wanted whatever in there out. I was planning a near future change to full syn. motorcycle spec. 20-50, but I may give the M1 a shot since it worked for you and it's cheaper than what I was eye-balling. I cringe every time it clunks envisioning little particles of metal being stripped away from the gears and floating around in the oil.
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Even if the car was running, the voltage should be about the same as the bike's charging voltage. What do you think the car would have damaged if it was running when he jumped it? There's always the remote possibility of the two charging systems "fighting" each-other and blowing a rectifier or something, but that wouldn't kill your power feed. I'd suggest checking the battery then the fuses with a voltmeter and with the key off then on. Your battery charger may indicate that the battery is fully charged even if it's dead. It can show full voltage and not have enough power to sustain voltage under a load-reason I say to check with the key on. Fuses can crack and not be easily visibly blown and the contacts can corrode and not transfer power-again why I say to check with the load of the key on.
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For the first few minutes riding it shifts buttery smooth. As it warms up the shifting gets progressively clunkier. It mostly does it 1st to 2nd, but also into 3rd and a little into 4th, seems to be smooth in 5&6, but I just may not be noticing it. Going from neutral to gear, whether 1st or 2nd, it's also smooth cold and quite a clunk hot. The clutch doesn't drag hot or cold; I can put it in gear on the center stand and the tire doesn't spin, other than an initial spin when I first clunk into gear. It did this on the oil that was in it (unknown type and age) and seems to be about the same with it's new Rotella 15-40.
I read somewhere that the clutches were redesigned at some point, but don't know what the reason was or if I should or could replace this one with a later style.
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I bought the ceramic coated headers from G2. Once they get here I'll have to convince myself to stop riding long enough to get them on.
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Anything left or all gone?
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I was really tempted to buy and try that coated FI header that was for sale here but my 97 is perfect in the jetting department and was afraid that might change it. Plus, I do like the RPM's.
Funny, that was my thought as well. Do you know who posted it? I couldn't find it and might pull the trigger and see what it does.
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If they were lighter then maybe the early is double walled, the collector change doesn't look different enough to me to make it significantly lighter. Or maybe the newer are thinner metal. Or maybe your recall is on the fritz. Someone's gotta know(?)
Did you notice any power difference when you swapped headers? Anything have to be relocated? Did you do any tuning? Stock or aftermarket mufflers? I ask because I too have considered the swap.
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I have a '97, and also never heard of it being a twin wall. They look too small to be twin and the twin walls I've seen on other bikes generally stay pretty on the outside due to the lack of heat. If it is twin wall then they're already insulated, but judging by the diameter and how quickly they heat up I don't think they are. Can you absolutely verify they are twin or was it just someone's statement?
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Check it my 97 the upper is low beam and bottom is high beam.
That's correct, thanks. Turned out to just be a burnt bulb, back on with a Sylvania Ultrastar Plus I think it is, whatever their highest end bulb is. HID is on the winter project list.
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I went with the PL14612. Woulda loved to use the longer 14610, but no room. It was $7.07 OTD at Pep Boys. I tore apart the OE filter that was on the bike. It's pretty well made looking, the only thing I didn't like about it initially is the flat steel spring holding the filter cartridge against the face plate, but it was very robust looking with incredible stiffness, nothing like what Fram uses which also acts as the bypass. The can is pretty thick and well rolled together and the cartridge was held together very well with steel end plates.
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Its pointless for us in that the thermal exchange of the exhaust header is sufficient enough that Honda engineering did not require the manifold be wrapped or any other type of barrier to keep the heat in the assembly for emission or otherwise. Wrapping an exhaust is generally done when the engine and pipes don't get hot enough and subsequently you end up with moisture under the wrap resulting in rust to the pipe in places that you wish it hadn't. If you listen to our bikes idle it's an off beat non consistent "I just want to YELL!!" tone. Our engines were for the most part a racing engine. However check this out...
http://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-header-heat-wraps-do-not-use.html
So, in light of this. I say pointless for us to do.
Jet
Now if you really want to improve the manifold, send it out and have it ceramic coated.
Jet
Honda engineered everything to absolute perfection with no mistakes and no regard to cost, therefore don't replace any parts not in the maintenance section, like a worn out CCT, and don't put any aftermarket parts on as they'll all yield less performance than the perfectly tuned parts Honda used. The sound of an engine's idle can not be used to determine that the builder built it for 'racing', and clearly Honda didn't; it's a sport turing street machine. As far as I know Honda didn't use this engine in any of their race bikes. The reason it sounds different than most sport bikes is because of the exhaust design, not engine design. Most importantly, I clearly stated that my main reason for wanting it is to reduce radiant heat to myself and not for performance or to relieve an engine heat issue. Given the packaging on this bike there's no doubt that the header heats the radiator and the oil filter, the fact that the cooling system can generally handle this heat doesn't negate it's there. It's not only taxing the system, but heating everything else around it as well. As far as wrap only being useful on something that doesn't heat the exhaust, I've yet to hear of anything with cold running headers or manifolds other than those designed with a cooling system. As for the link, they sell ceramic so of course wraps are crap, the wrap sellers say wrap is good, and neither is perfect. I may just do a heat shield so as to not overheat the headers, but still keep some heat in or at least directed where I want it.
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I was out getting ammo and a battery for my sandrail today and decided to pick up a filter. I was gonna grab the 14612 then started hunting. I saw that the 14610 was longer and had the same other specs so I grabbed it. When I got back and looked at clearance I decided it's probably not a good idea to put the filter that close to the header. I like the extra media, but the thought of it being that close to the exhaust is troubling. Not so much the heat into the oil, but that heat on the filter and by-pass spring. BTW, I've read all this crap about the oil changes being a pain because it gets all over the header and I didn't; what gives?
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Last filter I bought was stupid money at the dealer, but this one may not be. I guess I should have priced it instead of assuming they'd wanna dry hump me for it.
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Thanks!
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Where is the best place to get one? I don't want anything aftermarket unless it's PROVEN as good or better than stock in filtration ability.
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I'm sure this has been blown up a million times but searching comes up with all kinda shit. I'm mostly interested in a cross reference to a purolator or motorcraft number if one exists unless there's strong evidence that I should stick to OEM or another specific filter.
Also, if someone can educate me on making the search here better that'd be bitchen. I typed oil filter and got a million things that have nothing to do with oil filters. I'm guessing it's searching anything with either word, is there a way to make it search for both together?
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Thanks. I did consider rust, but I rarely ride in the rain and there is a water proofing coating for them I read about some time back. I would also be painting them with extreme heat paint first for a little extra protection. Unless I hear some horror stories about using it I'll be putting that on my to-do list. I already have a roll of wrap.
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"Still have to figure out the headlight. It only works on high beam, but actually illuminates the low."
Just to verify: the low beam is the upper bulb in the headlight, and the high beam is the lower bulb In the headlight, so you may just have a burned out low beam bulb on top.
I thought that, but following the electrical schematic it looks like the lower bulb is the low beam. I rode it last night and the light does appear to be the high beam after all (lower bulb). I'll get onto the bulb and see, looks somewhat time consuming so I wanted to eliminate other possibilities first. Thanks.
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Tho you found and cured a problem I'd still check it in case there's other electrical issues. There are ways to check for current flow in the plumbing and to the water directly. I don't know it well enough to instruct how to, but it's pretty simple and you should be able to look it up or maybe ask Carlos as he knows about nearly everything useful. And yes, even with an anode you can eat stuff up in a hurry with enough current flow. The anode helps, but can't fully compensate for a faulty system and I think it also depends on the direction of current flow as to how effective it'll be.
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I read a little bit about wrapping stock headers somewhere here but there didn't seem to be decisive evidence whether it was a good or bad thing. My biggest concern is that they may crack. This was mentioned, but not confirmed. I'm not looking for the 500 extra HP it gives, just looking to have less heat around my legs. Less heat around the engine and rad. are a big bonus. There was also some mention about them catching fire but I assume that only happens if they accumulate oil (?). I'd especially like to hear from someone who's done it and can tell me their experience.
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I've stripped many radiators and all have had the same style cooler in them, none have been just a simple tube.
The trans fluid gets hot on it's own, considering it's under constant pressure even with the engine at idle. You start blanketing that already hot pipe with coolant that's at the same temperature or close to it, all you are doing is insulating that heat.
Fluid pressure is not what creates the major heat in a trans. The coolant at the end of the radiator where the cooler is will never get close to the trans. fluid temp without cooking the engine. Everyone's entitled to their own opinions, but not their own facts. Decide for yourselves if you want/need a cooler, I only share the knowledge I've acquired after decades of auto & truck service and racing. I've worked on bikes to big-rigs. I've met and trained with engineers from companies specializing in stuff from u-joints to threadlocker (and yes transmissions). I would never condone adding any kind of unregulated cooler to a trans or anything else on a vehicle, engineers don't either. I think the OP's personal experience of a trans. lasting over 200K miles is pretty convincing evidence that they don't all need a cooler.
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I was going to suggest the synchronization but you took care of that. Glad to hear your baby is purring like new again.
Its always good to go over the entire bike when you get a used bike.
Congrats on the amazing deal.
I love my 97 she has 68, 000 miles on her now and runs like new.
This winter I am hoping to pull all the plastics and repaint them and while they are off I want to try to lean out the main jets a tad.
I have a factory pro jet kit so I should be able to just lower the neddles a clip or 2. It is jetted for 800 ft above sea level and I am only about 40'. She has just been running so damn good I hate to mess with it but it may be even better when I am done.
Thanks. Mine has 50k. I was content when it was running shitty, now I'm jazzed. Still have to figure out the headlight. It only works on high beam, but actually illuminates the low. I'm guessing I'll find some kind of crackhead 'repair' on it.
IF your bike was tuned for higher altitude you'd want to richen for lower, not lean. In any case, 760ft isn't enough to rejet for IMO. If it was absolutely spot on perfect (unlikely) and you wanted that same level of perfection then you'd richen a hair. The only perfectly tuned modified carbureted bike I've ever ridden was my superhawk. It was Jardine's test bike for building their exhaust and they spent lots of dyno and riding time making it perfect. After I sold it the buyer (a friend) took it to a performance shop because it had developed a little miss and I didn't have time to mess with it. They insisted it'd run better with a rejetting. I told the guy to NOT let them mess with it, but the shop kept insisting it'd run better and faster. They installed a stage 2 jet kit. I got to ride it afterward and from cold start to top end it sucked. It went from constantly trying to kill you power to not lifting the from without a clutch dump and the pipes were blackened with carbon within a few days. No kit is perfect unless it was designed for your exact set-up and even then won't be 100% out of the box.
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If you really want to scare yourself, put a trans temp gauge on your truck and watch what it does even without pulling any load. It is RIDICULOUS how hot these things run with the tranny cooler going through the radiator like they do from the factory. Instead of using outside air temp as your baseline, your baseline is now whatever temp your truck runs at. So if your coolant is 200 degrees, that's where your tranny STARTS it's temp at. Check this out:
Here is a very important fact that you should memorize. Your transmission is designed to work at a maximum temperature of around 200 degrees. For every 20 degrees you go over 200 degrees, you cut the transmission’s excepted life span by a factor of two. In other words, at 220 degrees your transmission will only last half as long as it was originally designed to. At 240 that number drops to ¼ the normal life expectancy. Get up to 260 degrees and that number drops to 1/8th. At 280 degrees it drops all the way down to 1/16th. Now you understand why it’s so important to keep your automatic transmission cool!
My van from the factory consistently hit 240 degrees trans fluid temp. May God have mercy on your soul if you tow with it. So what am I getting at? Change your fluid regularly (like 30,000 miles MAXIMUM) and convert to an EXTERNAL trans cooler.
This is what the cooler salesmen tell you to scare you into buying their product. Tho your coolant temp may show 200, that's the temp leaving the motor. The cooler is always at the cold end of the radiator and way below that or the engine would overheat long before you could hurt the trans. Regardless, the trans and the fluid will not be damaged at all at 220. Externals can help if you NEED one, but hurt otherwise. You want the fluid to warm up as fast as possible and if the fluid always stays cold it'll accumulate water and other stuff and be a bigger problem. You want all your oils to regularly get hot enough to shed water or it will accumulate. At 207K miles you've proven you don't need a cooler. Would the solenoid have lasted longer with one, maybe. Would the fluid have accumulated water and possibly become acidic and attacked stuff with one, maybe. I have many cars & trucks, and tow regularly. I've never lost a trans and don't have any add on coolers.
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Clunky shifting only after warm-up--normal?
in The Garage
Posted
The cush drive feels good and tight, but good thought.
I used to run the automotive 15-50 in my other bikes and would have again if I'd had easy access to it. With cars going lower and lower in viscosity recommendations the higher weight stuff is getting more scarce. My walmart stopped carrying it :-( so I grabbed my second choice. There wasn't one bottle of anything over 10-40 (except diesel) and it was only the walmart brand of high mileage stuff.
It's funny that in the manual under general information, lubrication, maintenance, etc. it repeatedly states to use 10-40 as does the sticker on the bike. 10-40 is the most commonly available motorcycle oil and damn near every bike manufacturer has the same recommendation. Then in the manual under maintenance there's a chart for oil viscosities/temperatures and it shows from 10-30 to 20-50 as acceptable weights. The 10-30 is only good to about 90 degrees, but all the others are good down to freezing or lower....I'd have to be desperate to drive in that shit!