superhawk996
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Posts posted by superhawk996
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I met that guy, but I think his F2 only had 172k at the time. It was pretty clean, especially for it's mileage. I hope he still rides it 'till it dies, I'm curious how far it'll go.
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Motorcycle oil in a car is often safe but not always and you can't count on extended intervals. Car oil in a bike depends on the oil and the bike's motor, clutch, and transmission design and it's use. Someone looking for top of the line lubrication like Amsoil should use what's designed for their application (the vehicle and it's intended use) otherwise it's like buying $500 super comfy bitchen work boots in the wrong size, even if you're getting them from Dave for $250 unused and better than new. Super expensive racing spec oil is worse for your grocery getter than cheap conventional oil.
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20-50 diesel spec? I generally only see 15-40 and 5-40 for diesels. There's a lot of experimental shit I do with motors but I'd make sure to use something with a C rating on the SAE label in a diesel unless it's an oil proven good for diesel use.
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Wish I'd known, I'da traded you my Yosh system for these.
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If I were within pick-up distance I'd be more tempted, still kinda tempted at $185.
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I considered that but thought it might be too thick and may cause a problem, would also suck if it left paper fibers in there or even worse if it tore.
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Only while coasting or the same sitting still whether in neutral or in gear?
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What belonging to the rotors has warped?
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Straight to the battery for accuracy, tho consider the constant draw if you leave the bike parked long times without a tender. You could add a relay triggered by the ignition or a manual switch. For simplicity you could wire it to any of the ignition controlled circuits, it'll read lower than battery voltage, but would still indicate an issue once you know what the voltage should read. The smallest of fuses would still be enough to power it. Mounting could be done with 3M extreme double sided tape. It'll stay forever, but fairly easy to remove if you peel the tape back slowly. There's also one I found somewhere that's just a light; it shows different colors for ok, low, overcharge. It'll grab your attention quicker than a number changing and is very small. Cecome has one so you can ask him where he got it, but I think it's the older version that just shows ok and low.
you are pretty observant ..don't think it is the older version picked it up less than a year back, better check with rideonxx to confirm..love to see more pics of your new ride.
Clean voltmeter installation, also displays ambient temperature and instant MPG.
Note the coolant temp, it knew it was posing for the forum.
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Tried ebay?
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The 999 has enough power for me, sure more is always great, but I don't have S1000RR or 1199 money to spend on a bike.
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Nothing I've ridden feels or turns like this, it's as powerful as the bird, and over a hundred pounds lighter. Unfortunately my aging broken body is telling me I should stay on something like the bird.
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and someone reported my CL post.
why aren't they required to list a reason....and then have it be verified with an option to correct it if I did something wrong?
jeepers.
blocked for 48 hours now to re-list.
It takes more than one person flagging it to kill it. Verifying every flagged post would be nice but would require too much manpower for something free. The main thing that'll make me flag an ad is a bunch of unrelated keywords, I hate sifting through a bunch of crap when I'm trying to find something. Miscategorized stuff, repeat posts, and fake low prices in the title will sometimes get flagged too.
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Ya I know. I guess the thing I'm pissed about is the timing. It's 60+ miles to the VA and I hate driving a cage. I've rode to work in snow just so I wouldn't have to cage it.
It could have failed at the VA where you didn't have tools, or on the road, or... The timing was not ideal, but far from shitty. I change rubber ones every tire, metal ones I ignore longer but eventually the seals will deteriorate. 90 degree stems are really nice.
I had one do exactly as yours on a bike I had no history on, annoying since it had near new tires. It's standard practice to replace them at every tire change at car tire places, no clue if bike shops think the same way across the board but the few I've had done got new stems without asking.
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My 'new' Ducati had leaky seals (helped shave a couple $ off the price) so I gave cleaning them a shot. I found that there are a few people selling tools to do this but being that I'd just unloaded it from the truck I wanted to ride right then, not go tool shopping or wait for Amazon. I used the energy guide sticker that was on my new TV (and the chick bitches that I never throw things away) it's thin and fairly stiff so I thought I'd try it. A few minutes later they appeared to be good to go so I took a ride--dry Ohlins for me
! Another home tool that works well is camera film but I didn't have any laying around. While cleaning you'll get some extra oil dribbling out around your tool so be prepared. The oil was pretty dirty so I'm thinking of getting more oil, it'll need topping off anyway, and purging them some more. There are detailed tutorials online with pics & vids so I won't bother, just want to share the idea and state that it can work. They were leaking pretty badly and I had my doubts but I'm a believer now. The tutorials I found were on dirtbikes, I guess they get more dirt in their seals for some odd reason, but same job on a streeter.The Ducati manual gives the rebuild instructions for the standard version 999 with Showas, for the S model with Ohlins it gives adjustment instructions followed by -if your Ohlins have an issue fuck off and go talk to them about it.
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I shoulda thought of this yesterday as I was fighting mine.
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It's still all Honda, you'll be mostly fine. Like any bike it has to have a weak link somewhere to give you troubles, I suggest adding one Ducati part so you'll always know where to find the failure.
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Straight to the battery for accuracy, tho consider the constant draw if you leave the bike parked long times without a tender. You could add a relay triggered by the ignition or a manual switch. For simplicity you could wire it to any of the ignition controlled circuits, it'll read lower than battery voltage, but would still indicate an issue once you know what the voltage should read. The smallest of fuses would still be enough to power it. Mounting could be done with 3M extreme double sided tape. It'll stay forever, but fairly easy to remove if you peel the tape back slowly. There's also one I found somewhere that's just a light; it shows different colors for ok, low, overcharge. It'll grab your attention quicker than a number changing and is very small. Cecome has one so you can ask him where he got it, but I think it's the older version that just shows ok and low.
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Or because he wanted to do something different and did. They're not my taste, but look very well made for home-made so props to him.
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After several tries to find the culprit it turned out to be the kill switch. Since discovering it was definitely related to bumps, tho not exclusively or repeatedly, I've gotten under the tank and tail several times shaking, tapping, and tugging and still nothing. This morning I did it again and thought to do the same up front. Checked the wiring, the instrument panel, then tapped the kill switch and it died. I worked the switch back & forth several times now it won't stall when I tap it or rock it. I'll open it up anyway to get a look and clean it up, assuming I can access the contacts. It seemed to do it more first thing in the morning, guessing the temperature changes night & day slowly opened the connection some and the vibrations from riding made the connection better.
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In the meantime, you can just press the starter button before you tun the key and the lights will only fire once per start, after the motor has fired and the button has been released.
Be aware that If it's a FI bike it may take a little more cranking since the fuel pump won't be able to prime the system before cranking. If you only did a low beam HID the other option is to go to high before starting then switch back.
Please post which light kit you got and your impression of it.
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How far out is the clutch push rod (in the reservoir) supposed to engage?
Looking at it and hearing the initial click, it clicks on the first 1/3 of the clutch lever's travel. but the clutch doesnt engage until the last 2/3rds-end of the lever's travel. If that makes sense.
Shouldnt it engage (initially) as soon or near the release from the grip and the clutch engages halfway through travel?
I don't understand the questions or know what's clicking, it shouldn't click. The clutch should be fully engaged a little after the halfway point of releasing the handle and the clutch should be disengaged well before the handle hits the grip, guessing about 3/4 squeezed. This'll vary some depending on your lever adjustment, but simply put, it should be like it was before the bleeding.
Did you tilt the master and bleed it? The bike has to be at the proper angle to bleed the slave as well, probably fine on the center stand but tilting it a bit to make sure the bleeder is at the highest point will assure there's no place to trap a bubble. You can buy every brake tool in existence but unless one of them is a gravity inverter you won't get air out of a cylinder that's at a bad angle.
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Sounds like there's air trapped somewhere, probably the master. Turn the bars and position the bike so that the draw hole in the master is at the highest point so that air can get out of the cylinder, you probably have to turn the bars right and tilt the bike to it's right side, and pump it to allow the air to rise into the reservoir. The handle end of the master needs to be just a little higher while keeping it as close to level front to back as possible. Do this with the cap on to reduce the chance of spillage. If that fails rig a way to back bleed it, drain it down some and pump fluid into the slave bleed nipple up to the res.
It's possible that some sludge or debris from the old fluid sitting got moved to a place where it's effecting something, but much less likely than air.
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Hatfield & McCoy....ding ding ding!
Anyone know how to save a tree?
in Handyman
Posted
Considered a good hug?
Been a while, did you manage to save it?