OMG

It's called the Audiovox ccs-100 While some may find it difficult, it's been installed on many motorcycles. Lots of write-ups on the web

I have the 99 with 60k no troubles so far. Is this something I should do as a preventative? Here in Mt. I could get stuck 300miles from nowhere, and that's just to go get a pizza. I'll have the bike apart for valve adj. throttle body sync. fork work with head bearing r&r, new sprocket, penske shock, electric cruise and some minor stuff. There is a Yamaha shop a ways away, or are they available on line?

Always use Sinclair premium - no ethanol I get 45 when I'm easy on the throttle. My son gets 35 with his honda - a CRX with a bigger than stock motor, WTF???

Got to wonder who thought up that name. Everyone knows it though.

Similar 97 here in Montana for 3200 Good luck But I agree - KEEP IT!!!!!! and give it to your grandkids

It's there for a good reason! Years ago I had a good friend that rode a triumph. At least he did till he went round a sweeper with his side stand down. Last ride for him.

Shucks - there is a 97 with 30k, a few extras for $4500 local to me. Send the money and I'll ride it to Ya. When the snow clears, hopefully by August. Global warming my ass!

76k on the RS and I haven't cleaned the chain yet! The bird has the Pro-oiler and I just keep adding synthetic oil to it and keep the rear wheel clean. The constant bath keeps the chain clean, and lasting a very long time.

Sucks when things strip - big time It should come out and be repaired with a Heli-coil. And to get things loose always heat the part the threads go into, and chill the bolt. The idea is to utilize thermal expansion and contraction to break the bond. Same idea goes for installing bearing races, heat the race - freeze the shaft or housing. A heat gun is much safer than a torch, and brake cleaner is great for chilling the bolt. I hope you don't regret not fixing it.

One last thing to be aware of is the "pipe runout". That is the allowable amount the fork tube (or pipe) can be out of true, or straight. Imagine if one or both of your tubes is not perfectly straight by .20 and then imagine that one tube is "bent" forward and one back. When you bolt everything up tight something is going to stick, or at least not slide smoothly. The best practice, in my experience, is to verify that the tubes are straight before assembly. Then after assembly but before installing springs, bolt the front assembly solid with the axle and verify that the whole assembly slides full travel without any resistance. If you do find sticky spots it means that the tubes are not perfectly parallel. Rotating the tubes sometimes will solve sticks. With luck they will be perfect, but when they are not the ride suffers and wear increases.

Awesome write up!! Only thing I could add (having been a factory mechanic for honda and bmw) is to not install the springs and add the oil till you have verified that the forks slide freely after all the bolts are tight. I know it can be a challenge, but sometimes the tubes aren't perfectly true and can cause a sticky action. Rotating one or both of the tubes can often resolve this.

I think I've found the best install for heated grips yet -- at least for me. I have big hands and standard bars have always been too small to grab comfortably, nope I'm not going to harley. What I have done is wrap bicycle cork wrap over grip heaters and wire as needed. The heat doesn't get lost to the bar and as a bonus, the grips can be shaped to fit my hand.

Another easy fix is moth balls-- just pour them down the holes