Hooplehead

Decent shape. I'd imagine it won't win any beauty contest, but I can start it and ride w/no problems. Like everything, I have maintained it and kept it working. I went riding less than a month ago, but twisted my ankle since, and noticed it needs a new tube on the rear (damn thorns). Just put steering bearings in it and re-did the front forks this season. It also has a new (less than a season) chain and sprocket on it. It also has new pro-taper bars and grips. Still flat rear tube.

Friend bought me this for my b-day. Here's the before and after pics if anybody was wondering. I think it looks a lot better because the stock aluminum wasn't a perfect finish...... 10 yrs isn't young! Cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and let the sticker warm in the sun prior to adhering. Wonder how long she'll stick? Seems of decent quality anyhow. Thanks WORM! :icon_iloveyou:

That is a very real possibility Eddy. I wanted to go new on both but DAMN even EBC's are expensive. You gotta pay to play, I know. REDBIRD: "BTW, the secondary cylider on the left fork actuates the rear, not the other way around. When you apply the rear brake, force is applied equally to both front discs via a hydraulic link." I found this information on a tech sheet, that may shed some light on this issue. "Operation-Enhancing Delay Valve The system also features a delay valve that smooths front brake engagement to minimize its associated dive when performing minor speed corrections using only the foot pedal. Positioned between the foot brake's master cylinder and the center pistons of the front brake calipers, the delay valve engages only the left-side front caliper at first, reducing the initial front wheel braking force by nearly half. As pedal pressure increases, the delay valve introduces pressure to the right-side front caliper, which rises to match pressure to the left-side caliper at a preset level." CBR1100spec_page.htm ^-----entire article I aint trying to argue by any means (for once), just really curious if my braking style could be the culprit, or if the brake design has something to do with it? One could always de-link it, but that wouldn't be figuring it out, now would it? Yep, it's driving me nuts, The sign of a decent mechanic: obsess until it's figured out, or the doctor says your blood pressure is too high! :icon_slap:

+1 on that too. Kind of a pita, but doesn't cost anything, and that's what really matters! I know you don't think it's the chain, but perhaps you could loosen it a tad just to see? I know when I overtightened mine a tad, the vibration was pretty bad under acceleration and also when I shifted my weight rearwards. It was so bad, that my suspension wasn't even working in the rear. I went really slowly and :icon_pray: my front seal didn't explode! I believe the chain tightens a little as the rear end sags? Doesn't the bike also sag a little when it is being rev'd? Soak that bad boy in lube, give it a little excess slack (keep it straight), adjust your balancers, and ride like the wind. Or sell it to my girl for $10 and then I can keep mine! I hear bicycles get great mileage and don't vibrate much.

Put 5wt in mine. I too noticed a little extra noise, but after a couple hundred miles I have either gotten used to it, or it has subsided. Course, I stayed w/stock parts (except for oil and seals.). Keep us updated, cuz I think this is an issue a lot of us has noticed. At least you aint hearing a scraping sound. I remember reading a few posts related to that too. My only complaint about the bird "why didn't Honda use good suspension parts?!! :icon_wall:

:icon_thumbsup: +1 Water settles at the bottom of carbs so sometimes it won't become evident until you are really up into the revs, or really down into the fuel in the bowls. Fuel issue would've been my starting point.

Get a vista-cruise and ride with no hands. You can sit upright all day long!

Check your chain slack.

Bumpity bump. Now I"ll take an even $1000. Haven't ridden her for weeks now. Anyone. . .. . . Anyone. . . . .Fry. . . . . .Fry. . . .Fry. . . .Bueller. . . . . .Bueller. . . .Bueller?

Don't think that didn't cross my mind, but after 8yrs, I got a shit ton invested in her. Besides, where you finding cheap women that are worth a damn? Seems like the cheap ones end up costing more in the end! Thanks Brett, we own 2 1/2 of them. I am probably selling one of those too.

Damn, gotta sell my love. My old lady can't help but punish me every time I go for a ride without her, so I am unfortunately getting rid of the bird. There is very little wrong with this bike. The worst is I dropped it warming up last winter. It is pretty much stock except for a set of VFR bars, a touring windscreen and peg lowering brackets. I have a spreadsheet of all parts purchased and all maintenance done. Maintenance.xls I can't go lower than about 3,800 for my girl, so don't bother me with offers of less. I hate to do this, but I am so fucking tired of the guilt trips at home. The bike is located in Elizabethton, TN. It has a clean title and no hidden issues. I am straight up, so if you got questions, I'll try and answer. Fuck I hate this crap. :icon_wall:

Cmon guys, I thought we all knew that a small electronic part forces more air into the cylinders, allowing more fuel= more horsepower. I mean shit, why spend all that time and loot on a turbo when this thing proves (w/dyno test) to work. I'd get one, but too much power scares me. Besides, I hear someones got good weed I should be saving $$ for!

I've had all the parts apart. Everything seems in good shape. I relubed all the pivots and all the action was smooth. Didn't know about the clearance thing. I must admit, I don't reefer to the manual as much as I should. Good info on the rear actuating both rotors. . .thanks! Perhaps I am grabbing the front too hard and that's doing it. Anyhow, I am off to read the manual and find this "clearance spec" of which you speak. I'll keep everyone informed. Damn, I was hoping I wasn't the only one. . . .......................AGAIN!

Make sure the little spring is in the right place. I went thru 2 vista cruises and 1 lost in the mail, to get mine right. The tolerances have to be close to work. When I first got it right, the throttle was slow to retract on its' own. now that it's been "broken in" the cruise works perfectly! In fact, it works better and easier than my friends lock on the end of her bars. I didn't follow the same install as shown here, but similar. Just be sure the lock is grabbing the tube with both halves. If you tighten the screw you used with mounting, before you actually lock the cruise, it may be allowing too much slack on that half of the part. Anyhow, I found it a real bitch to install properly, but am really happy with it now. Totally worth the $60 it ended up costing me! Keep fiddling with it, you won't be disappointed! BTW, did you take great care in sanding where the throttle ring was, so it is actually round still? I ended up removing my tube to modify it properly.

Looks to be a decent price to me. Not like you're gonna be able to brag, but you won't have to be ashamed either. Tell him 4,000 since the nut protectors are on crooked. That, and black is so much faster. Ask if the front tire is cupped too.

I'm in for a set. . . .if I don't run across any more expensive local gvnmnt charities. How do you scrape a peg? I got maybe 1/4" of chicken on my rear & none on front. . .. Never touched knee or peg. Did remove my feelers w/the lwr front brackets tho.

It is not uncommon, nor recommended, to seat beads at twice their rated pressure. The safest method is to use a ton of soapy water and try to not exceed max psi. At the shop we tend to go double the max pressure. Hell, i am insured at work, and so are the tires. Besides, who's got time to wait for beads to pop? Sometimes setting the tire out in the sun for a while, makes the rubber more pliable, hence beads easier. The danger isn't only in if the tire will explode, the danger also lies in the fact that the tire can pop over the bead and cause the rim to jump if not secured. Whenever we seat beads, we put the rim in a fixture, or hold the tire vertical. Don't want the tire slapping the ground and driving the rim into your chin.

RTFM! You should even have a handy tank prop tool in your tool-kit. Pull the tank, if you never have, time to learn. Besides, if you pull it now, it'll be easier next time! BTW ride her till she's empty first! Never use oil on rubber, use silicone or lithium. WD-40 won't last.

Michelins are great tires but have a reputation of not lasting so long. For traction when your wallet isn't an issue. . . .Michelins I probably don't push that hard, and do a lot of daily, so I ended up with Pirelli Diablo's. Man, they are pretty damn smooth I must say. :icon_clap: Seems like they'll get good mileage too. Did I mention easier on the wallet?

$12 Carb sync tool This worked perfectly for me three times now, on two different 4cylinder 4-strokes. My xx and my friends yamaha 1000. I leave it capped off and propped up in the garage. . .ready for action. Any questions?

Makes good sense about the difference in heat expansion rates. The rotors I'm having problems with are always left front (linked side), and I've only been using Honda rotors. If no one else is having this issue, maybe I just ended up replacing an old (20k?) rotor with another used one that was nearly killed. I just want some decent brakes that don't give me worries. Perhaps Honda has the specs for their rotor pins. I could always destroy my old one, and mic it to see if it's the pins or hub or rotor. Perhaps they get loose with age because of the heat cycles? I dunno, but 2 new rotors aren't cheap, and I'd totally cry after saving all that cash for naught in another 2k. I try not to destroy my brakes and I don't think I'm using too much of the front or rear. Even with the LBS, I haven't gotten lazy and started using only fronts. . .yet. I am wondering if maybe the entire setup with the swinging caliper is causing extra stress on it. Still kinda seems weird that I can't lock-up the rear tire. Ah, LBS to be or not to be, that is another question.

Well fuck! :icon_banghead: Only 1k miles on the newer left rotor, and here's that noise again. Does anyone know if it could be the LBS causing this? I don't think my braking style is that horrible. Any advice on whether or not I should delink this girl before spending big bucks on pretty wave rotors? The brake system operates smoothly and I have fairly new pads on her. Someone please tell me what the hell is causing this, or what the hell will solve it?!!. . . .and my list of goodies continues to grow..... Thanks.

Damn, you guys know more about my bike than I do. Line 34 shows the addition of stock pipes! Ha, bet you were lookin for the wrong kind of pipe!

The installation of any parts or equipment that may seem illegal, WILL NOT be advertised here. Having said that. . . . . . . .. I will admit that a QP would probably fit in my tank bag. Oh shit, forgot, about the led's I put on too. :icon_wall:

I like my carbed bird. Never owned a FI bike, seems like that fancy smansy new fangled witchcraft to me! My baby has got tons of soul. . . .i mean hell she is black after all!