demon

forks compressed is the way to do it. Just remember that 25.5 mm equals 1 inch. 140mm is equal to right at 5.49 inches. You measure it with the spring out and the damping rod in with the forks fully compressed. You'll want to pump the rod a few times to get the air out of it.

None that I know of, it should work just fine.

Have you checked the rear rotor as well?

My well nuts stay in my screen when I take it off. When I broke my screen and had to remove and reinstall the well nuts, they were a bitch to get into the new screen. They aren't going anywhere.

The shinko tires are a real good tire, well if you drag race and don't do any road riding with them. They have a U shaped carcas that puts down a massive contact patch and the lack of grooves means more rubber on the track.

I'm hard on rear tires. I don't care what kind or brand I use, I can't get more than 5000 miles out of a sport touring rear. I'm switching to the powers and hoping the extra traction means less wheelspin. Less wheelspin = longer life.

I've had friends that drag race and they put and auxilary fan switch on their bikes. It keeps the factory temp switch, but adds a manual switch as well for cooling the bikes down between rounds. You splice the manual switch into the wiring parallel, not in line, and it works off either the manual switch or the factory temp switch. You can switch the fan on in traffic before the temp rises past the point of no return. I've thought about doing this to mine as well, but just haven't gotten around to it.

One thing everyone usually forgets to do is to actually rev the engine up a little bit when the fan is running. When I'm in stop and go traffic, if I notice the temp gauge rising and the fan comes on, I will rev it up to 2500 to 3000 rpm to increase the water flow through the radiator. It works for me and I've never had it cut off on me.

J Red's right about the price. All titanium header pipes will run you bookoo bucks. The only other company that offers a FULL titanium system for the bird is Ti Force I believe and the price is comprable to the TSR system. Light costs money.

Yea, I second that. If anyone has a set of MIGS that aren't mounted and could ship the mid pipes up for measuring, good things might happen. Might be more costly, but stainless would be a better choice of material.

are you calling me an asshole? Asshole! When my R/R went on my Yamaha it stunk like burning shit.. :? Start with the simple stuff first and work your way to more complicated solutions NO, I'm not calling you an asshole. read the sign...........stoooopid

Might that be a bag of marbles sound? Mine sounded like a bag of marbles around 3K to 4K and it was the CCT. Mine went out at 10000 miles.

:stupidsign: Might be the dreaded reg/rec issue.

Your finish coat is only as smooth as the primer coat. You can get the scratches out by sanding with a finer grit paper, washing it down, priming it, sanding it down again with the finer paper, and then prime again. The coat of primer you sand down will act as a filler in the bigger scratches and act to smooth things a bit. You might need to do this a couple times with the sanding of the primer to fill in any deep scratches till you get it smooth enough for your last coat of primer for paint.

Vern, you're only as old as you feel. You gonna let me tell ya how old you are at SEXXT? Shouldn't you be leaving soon?

Don't know the thread size, but you should be able to pull out the oil sensor and put in a gauge and tell if you actually have pressure.

Glad to hear the good replys on the Powers. That'll be my next set of tires when I can save up my pennies.

I used to idle mine down to 1000 rpm and pull up beside people at the drag strip. It would be idling rough enough to make some people think that I'd put cams in it. Mine idles rough all the time. Might need to sync my throttle bodies or something.

OK, my bad. +/- 100 rpm. one too many 0's. 1000 to 1200 rpm.

My 99 idles rough as well. 1200 rpm is still in the accepted range of 1100 rpm +/- 1000 rpm. I just take it as first year of fuel injection quirkyness. The 99 has a baro sensor that no other model year XX has. Think they refined the system a little after 99.

Hmmmmmm, how many miles on her? Bag o marbles usually spells CCT. The 6 springs are your regular clutch springs. The hub is a damped unit, not solid like aftermarket billett replacements (for dragracing)

That's a good read. Interesting stuff.

Whether the engine speeds up or slows down when there is a vacuum leak depends on the richness or leanness at idle. A rich idle will speed up when a leak occurs whereas a lean mixture at idle will slow down.

Think someone else had the same problem with theirs Forest. Superbrace sent them a new one and all is well.

You need the upper and lower tripples, clip ons, front brakes with lines and master cylinder, front wheel, front fender, and delink the existing brakes. If you just start with forks, it'll still take you quite a bit of money just to get them on and working. A good doner bike is what you need to salvage the whole front end setup.