demon

I might know of a couple people who might be interested. Elton Fish makes one for the bird as of now

The throttle response is just as before the swap. You'll have a little more power in all gears but it is the most noticeable in the lower gears. When you gear a bike down, you are actually increasing the torque in each gear. 1 down in the front gears the bike down about 6%. This will increase the torque output accordingly. It's a lot of fun Just got my 46 tooth rear last night and will probably put it on this evening. I'm setting the bike up for drag racing and don't care that much about top speed or fuel mileage.

Thanks a lot for the info. I think I'm gonna cut my stock stand and weld the foot back on the bottom. A friend has done this and he drilled a hole in the foot and added a bolt on extension on the bottom of the foot. Works pretty good.

Yea, it's harder to keep down, but excersize some control with the little lady. I scared the hell out of mine and she beat the hell out of my back before I could get stopped.

You'll like the 6mm spacer. It really wakes the bird up in the curves and reduces the tendancy to drag hard parts while at full tilt.

I run the 16 on the front. I'll not go back to the 17. You'll get used to the whine and the increase in acceleration is worth it. Even with the 16 tooth front, the bird will still hit 170 on the GPS, or so I've read in previous posts. That's fast enough for me. In fact I'm going 1 up on the back to compliment the 1 down of the front. Just a little more grunt.

Like eliXXir said, Thanks for the help I'm in no big rush, it ain't no emergency

It's not really unsprung weight, but more to do with MOI. Any weight loss anywhere is good, but weight loss that is rotating at a high rate of speed is better. I read in Sport Rider, I believe, that a worn out tire gave them 2 more HP than a brand new tire. Dyno charts and everything. I believe this has more to do with MOI than unsprung weight. If you reduce your MOI numbers, the bike will probably produce a little more power, but will handle a lot better with reduced stability . Now, where's that Crapozeria BS wheel? I can find a lot better ways to improve my performance without changing wheels. For the cost of a set of Magnesium wheels (VERY light), you can put on a street turbo kit. Which would you rather have? 5HP and better handling, or 100HP and that sweet whine :roll: :roll:

There is one place that makes an adjustable kickstand for the 929/954 but not for the bird. This is the reason I am asking. I talked to them about making one for the bird, but tooling costs for making just a couple would be outrageous. They said they would have to make about 100 to come out on the cost and the interest just isn't there. Jason W, let me know if they will interchange.

Does anybody know if the kickstand off a 929 or 954 will fit on the bird? I'm trying to find an adjustable kickstand for my bike and nobody has one. I found a place that makes them for the 929 and 954 and was wondering if any of you who have both a bird and a 929/954 would see if they are similar and could make it work.

That link didn't work for me. Try this one: http://www.321ignition.co.uk/conversion_kits.htm This is a discription of the system.

There has been a few people on here that have done it. I don't know if you can just delink the rear without delinking the front. Perform a search on "de-linking" on the forum. There has been a couple writeups on how to do it. You can buy a kit that has everytning you need from a place in Europe I believe.

The 99 model has a Baro sensor that all other year fuel injected birds did not have. I believe the temp sensor changed as well. The pinouts are different on the newer style computers. Unless your friend wants to change some sensors and some wiring, I'd go back with the newer style 02 and up computer.

I think the O2 sensor only really controls the air/fuel ratio at steady throttle/cruising speed(closed loop). At WOT the ecm has a different "open loop" setting for the air/fuel ratio. This is the way they work on cars, but the bikes can't be much different.

The IAT sensor determines the intake air temp, obvoiusly. The temp of the intake air will dictate the amount of fuel the injectors will put in with the air at different temps. Cold air is more dense and will handle more fuel. Hot air is less dence and therefore will not handle as much fuel. If your IAT is reading inaccurately, your air/fuel ratio will be off either lean or rich depending on how it is faulty (open circuit or short). This could cause drivability problems and fuel economy issues.

That tire will work fine. The "W" is for OEM fittament and the tread is a little different. Usually you can only get the OEM tires through Honda at a PREMIUM price.

Yea, I wish you did too. They look kind of like the Converti-bars, but better engineered and manufactured. Looks like you can adjust them up/down and forward/back as well as front to back angle.

http://www.scaryfastracing.net/ anybody seen these before? looks like an interesting alternative to the Heli bars and VFR bars

When you get her fiXXed up, let me know. I'm bout 45 min. away from you. Do a little ridin :cool:

How many miles on the bike? Sounds like your shift forks are worn or bent. If your dogs are worn bad, this could contribute to this. "Back cutting" your gears allows for clutchless upshifts and, from what I understand, is done to your synchronizers or "dogs". Great for dragracing, but not good for much else. I'd put new dogs in her and check your shift rod and forks for excessive wear and straightness.

MiDNiTXX, you might try a bigger oil cooler. That turbo is bound to heat the hell out of your oil.

I'm fixing to plop a 190 on the back of mine for drag racing. I've done enough corner carving :roll: and am deciding to go straight line with mine. With the bike lowered, I don't think a 190 is going to hurt me anyway

Strapping the front does 2 things. First, it lowers the center of gravity by lowering the front of the bike and second, it keeps the forks from releasing the tension in the springs when you get on the gas keeping the front end down even better

I just ordered the lowering link from Schintz Racing as well as a lowering strap for the front. Like Fur said, back off the preload some and you'll get your inch you're looking for. Mine's setup like this now and the forks are slid up about an inch, but it still isn't low enough. The forks and rear preload allowed me to lower the bike about an inch front and rear. I am lowering mine about 3" front and rear total to prevent wheelies at the strip. :cool:

I've been doing some drag racing lately and am going to lower the bird with straps on the front and an adjustable link in the back. I can't keep the front end down for shit. I run 7.09 @ 109 in the eighth mile with a 1.9 60' time. :oops: Does anybody know of an adjustable kickstand for the blackbird? This way I can drop the bird for track use and raise it back up for road duty and still have a useable kickstand for each height.