blkbrdrydr

Just removing the OEM pads and installing the EBC pads exactly as they come out of the package is the correct way to install them.

Call them at 888 962 1212 and ask for Doug. Since they are progressive springs, I don't know if weight is actually an issue with them but... Doug can answer that question for you.

A HyperPro shock spring for a '93-'95 CBR900RR costs $109.95 from www.hyperprousa.com

A HyperPro shock spring for a '93-'95 CBR900RR costs $109.95 from www.hyperprousa.com I just changed to a HyperPro rear spring tonight and I don't recognize the feel of my own bike. The rear is very stiff feeling but also very smooth over bumps. I'm going to do the front springs this weekend.

How much is the rear shock spring compressed beneath those collars? If I want to remove it, do I just remove the collars or do I need a spring compressor tool?

Next question... Which bleeders are used to bleed the brakes when there's only 4 hoses to worry about?

Seb is referring to the best way to remove the front to rear linking brake pipe. If I remember correctly, it's a long metal pipe(s) that gets disconnected at both ends from the front secondary master cylinder and from the rear master. You then need to bend/twist it so that you can then pull it out from the rear end. Also a good call going with the Hyperpro springs. IMO it's the best bang for the buck to improve the forks. -Colin YEP... that makes sense now that I consider what "routing to the rear of the machine means". How on earth do I get all (or most) of the old fluid out of those lines before I start removing them? Yeah... I've always installed progressive springs on other bikes and have always been pleased with the results.

YEP... now that I really looked that the contents of the kit, I can see that the instructions are referring to the two CNC-machined black anodised aluminium units that connect the two front ports on the calipers. One is made for the right side and one for the left :grin: I don't relish the idea of removing all the plastic and gas tank to install this kit but I think that I'm going to really enjoy having normal brakes on the XX. While I"m at it, I'm also going to install Hyperpro springs and change my coolant.

I don't have a clue what "handed" means since everything seems to have normal direction threads. I know that Seb is great about answering questions but before I hit him the a few dozen of those... I thought that I'd ask list members who have already used his kit to de-link their brakes.

I just received my de-linking kit today, and actually started by reading the instructions. :grin: What on earth is "handed"? Also, what does "feed the standard front to rear link host around the throttle cables and route to the rear of the machine" mean?

I've been through a set of BT57s and a set of ME Z4s, have almost 17,000 miles and... With a Throttlemeister keeping the throttle open, I can ride at ANY speed with my hands off the grips without any hint of headshake. I can also just close the throttle and let the bike deaccelerate from any speed and there's still absolutely no shake. I would vote for a tire being out of round as the probably cause of the shake

Whenever mine appears to be steering to the right, I check the chain adjustment. I adjust things so that the teeth of the sprocket run exactly down the middle of the chain and NEVER adjust according to the adjustment marks. Once those teeth are exactly in the middle of the chain, the bike no longer seems to be steering to the right.

Here's a great front wheel stand for $35 http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/frontstand.html

My set was just delivered and while reading the instructions, I began to wonder about something. I know that the stock height for the fork tubes to be above the upper triple-clamp is around 39mm. Hyperpro says to mount the tubes at 50mm above the upper triple-clamp. I wonder if they measured from the top of the cap or the top of the tube? Thoughts?

Why wouldn't I want to raise the bars by the full 3/4" by putting the GenMar risers beneath them?

Don't know! There are no curves in Southeast Michigan. Besides, I do a bunch of high speed straight line long distance riding and I care more about longevity than cornering grip. However, this tire is OEM on a lot of BMW models and I've always understood that BMW riders like their twisties. :grin:

At 7,584 miles my rear Metzeler ME Z4 has 4/32nds tread depth in the middle of the tire. I'll update everyone when it's around 8,500

When I was riding to work today, started to wonder if anyone had installed VTEC bars on top of GenMar Risers. A couple of points... 1) I'm using a Givi windshield that offers much more room than the OEM 2) I'm de-linking my brakes and the lines are longer than stock which are currently long enough to fit my VTEC bars. Has anyone tried this? Does anyone have a set of GenMar risers that they'd be interested in selling?

Has anyone installed satellite radio on their bike? Would you consider sharing a few photos, installation tips and information regarding things like: How to keep the control units dry How and where to mount the units How to connect to a headset Where to put the antenna (I've heard that the fluid reserviors work well) You know... a nice complete Installation Guide and FAQ :grin: Thanks

I've been doing a lot of corresponding with Seb prior to ordering his Evo III de-linking kit. When I asked him about the need for a 5/8" bore master cylinder, his response was: "A 5/8" master cylinder is not really necessary - we have had to do this only once in our time for a particularly fussy customer who wanted a 'harder' lever with less feel. Its a subjective thing...... Once delinked a bike should only be bled on its SIDE STAND. The most common problem that people come across is that air gets trapped in the master cylinder (due to the angle of the bars) and this is difficult to overcome when bleeding the bike upright. This problem only affects XXs with stock bars and no other CBS equipped bike - strange eh? This tends to be the reason people complain of excess lever travel - their system is not bled to 100%. Once delinked the XX will feel the same as or slightly stronger at the lever than stock but with the advantage of six pistons." YMMV,

Seb isn't able to post for some reason but asked that I pass along this small bit of information. He mentioned that his kit came with stainless steel allen headed bolts and washers to blank off any blind threads that remained after the original crap has been removed - he suggested that you should have used those and not refitted his hideous reflectors...... :grin:

If we're going to have fun with this topic again, this should provide interesting reading: http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm I understand that the ST1300 guys are using Shell Rotella which is available for next to nothing at Wal-Mart.

My rally/serious long distance bike is a Goldwing and my Dunlop 491 rear tires only seem to last for 24,000 or 25,000 miles so... Goldwings certainly do wear out their tires. :grin:

WD-40