kevinskii

I agree, it seems that the culprit is the bank angle sensor or the kickstand sensor. Since you still had lights and indicators when it cut out, I can't think of anything else offhand that would prevent the engine from even cranking. It would probably be worthwhile to try idling the bike for a while to see if you can reproduce it. You'll want to have a multimeter ready so you can take readings on both sensors when it happens.

When it cuts out, do you lose all electrical (lights, dash, etc.) before you cycle the key?

I used it recently for something similar, and I would have had better luck binding the parts with my own dried turd. Have a looky here.

Heh. Mine's on its way back to Apple. The iPad may not be far behind it.

Jesus Christ, is there anyone on this forum who doesn't have a broken fairing bracket? And here I thought I was special.

That's how mine is right now. Thanks for the advice. I'll probably just leave it alone. It's one less thing that will break the next time I crash.

You're right, it's on the pan, not the engine block. Thanks. I wasn't looking closely enough. It's nice to know that I can pull it off if some of the JB Weld alternatives suggested here don't work.

When I low-sided the XX a few months ago, the bracket mount for the lower cowl broke off the engine block. This isn't a stress-bearing part, so I thought JB Weld would make an ideal fix. Unfortunately it keeps breaking under the slightest pressure. I've tried setting it three different times, and I'm pretty sure I'm doing everything properly. Has anyone had better luck with another brand of off-the-shelf epoxy?

What happens when you try giving it a bit of gas while letting out the clutch? I know it sounds stupid, but everything you describe seems to indicate that the idle speed may simply be set a bit too low.

Make sure you tightened the terminal screws enough when you put in the new battery. Seriously, the same thing just happened to a friend. His battery died on the freeway due to the terminals being loose. And like Mike said, completely remove the PCII from the system and ride with the stock computer for the first couple of weeks.

I agree that it's a crappy law, but a '97 bird should still be able to meet the emission standards for newer vehicles. I'd be surprised if you learn otherwise. Please let us know.

103C ~= 217F, which is very close to what my '02 bird stays at while idling with the fan running. It sounds like you're fine.

Another possibility is that if you recently fiddled with your idle speed adjustment knob, the set screw may have gotten detached from the wax unit. This would cause the bike to run normally during cold idle, and then die as soon as the computer switches over to warm idle.

Holy crap. This thread is still going? Cool. Way to go, "Punisher."

It's a counterintuitive pain in the ass the first time you use it, isn't it? Hopefully my recent experience will be somewhat helpful: Yes, that's correct. Make sure it's there. It's very easy for it to fall on the floor when you're not looking. This happened to me, and I accidentally pushed the pin through the back and destroyed the master link. Yes. Make sure it's all the way to the stop. In one of your later posts, you attached a photo from webbikeworld where it is backed off an inch or two. I'm pretty sure this is wrong. I initially tried to do it this way, and I was having a heck of a time trying to flare the rivet because all of my energy was going into bending the rivet pin. Yup. I'm pretty sure I held 'A' while tightening 'B'. I personally found it much easier to do when it was on the rear sprocket. Hopefully my own dumb mistakes will save you some grief. Have a great weekend! Kevin

When I took an 800 mile round trip a few months ago, I had ~1/8" from the wear bars on my rear Z6. I thought I'd be okay. But when I got there and checked the tire, I knew that there was no way I'd make it home on it. I ended up wasting a Saturday shopping for a new tire and someone to mount it. Better to change it beforehand if you have time.

I have an '02 with Yoshimura slip-ons. Two people told me that they could smell my exhaust from dozens of yards behind when the bike was under heavy acceleration. Subsequent research on this forum indicated that the bird tends to run rich, and that most PCIII maps would lean it out. I used that as my excuse to buy a Power Commander, and no longer can anyone smell my exhaust. The increase in power was noticeable, but not nearly as dramatic as some have reported. Of course, I've never had the bike dyno'd or tweaked.

9600 baud N-8-1 is typical, and I imagine these settings would work just fine with the PCIII. You might possibly have problems because you're using a USB-serial adaptor that was intended for use specifically with your UPS, so its driver might not be as configurable as that of an off-the-shelf adaptor. It's possible they locked in some funky settings. I would first try getting your USB-serial adaptor working with your UPS. Once you have it working the way it was intended to, you should hopefully be able to then just plug it into the PCIII with no problem. If you can get it working with the UPS but not the PCIII, then try going into the Windows device manager to see if you are able to change the settings. An off-the-sheld adaptor should be pretty cheap if all else fails, and others have said that they work well with the PCIII.

Unless someone on here has had experience otherwise, I'd say your chances are really good that it will work. I use USB-serial adaptors with some pretty old and strange equipment, and I've never had any problems.

I'll answer my own question: I put a Pilot Power on the front today, and the handling difference from the old Metzler Z6 was immediately noticeable. The bike falls into corners with much less effort than before. It feels like the bike shed about 50lbs. If I get at least 2000 miles of longevity out of the tire, I'll probably stay with Pilot Powers for a while. It will be interesting to see what difference the rear Pilot makes, once the Z6 has worn out.

The Blackbird story isn't their only claimed success. A quick browse of their website (http://www.urbanept.com) turned up the following: - Claimed 20hp gain on a CBR600RR for only 299(UK) - Claimed 23hp gain on an R6 - Claimed 10hp gain on another R6 racing bike that already had very high-end mods - Claimed 120hp on an '02 carbureted R6 w/ their mods It's okay to experience setbacks during development, but my objection is that they're actively marketing, pricing, and selling their products even though a lot of research is still apparently needed. They should at least be limiting sales to their home territory while they get the kinks worked out. I agree that there probably isn't any intentional deceit on their part. But given the drastic difference between what they're advertising and the dyno results that were reported on this forum, I question their measurement techniques. If any of these claimed horsepower increases were even somewhat reproducible, these guys would be gods in the motorcycle world right now. We'd all have pin-ups of them in our garages. My gut feeling is that this won't ever pan out. I really, really hope that I turn out to be wrong.

Has anyone compared the Pilot Powers to the Metzler Z6's? I've been running Metzlers ever since I decided that I liked them much better than my Dunlops a few hundred tires (and motorcycles) ago. My only complaint is that once they start to wear out, they go very quickly. I typically get about 4000 miles out of them, and they seem to stick to the road okay.