ActionStarCBRxx

Found the mounting spot... how do I hook it up? I am running the ground to the front metal frame supports to the nose fairing. (right by where the horn mounts) But on the positive terminal... I am not sure where to go. If I go straight to the battery, then the meter will always be on? That will be a continous pull on the battery.

I just bought the Datel volt meter. I plan on installing it in the next few days. I would like some opinions on where to put it? Need to balance looks (prefer no loose wires) and easily viewable (the volt reading)... along with easily removable if I need to pull plastic off. You all have had the meters for quite a while, so I thought you might have a good idea on what works and what doesnt?

Sold... PM Sent

Mostly +1 on the Spieler lines. I have them on my bird as well. The thing I don't like about them is that they are fully braided end to end. I would have liked to kept the steel along the frame, then connect the braided to the steel at the wheels/forks/swing arm. I also don't have the right holders for the braided lines where they come up the forks and connect to the master cylinder. But quality and finish are great. I paid $389 last year on a group buy from Cogent Dynamics Motorsports. You can send a note to Joyce Tannenbaum at raceparts@motocd.com *** Their Info *** Joyce Tannenbaum Cogent Dynamics Motorsports MotoCD Customer Service www.motocd.com

+1 on the seal kit. I had to pull the rear's on mine a few weeks ago as they were sticking. Once I cleaned everything out again, the problem was solved... but I don't have 100k on the bike like you do. So I would recomend the seal kits. Double check Ron Ayers Micro Fiche for the list... but I think this is what mine was. I did fronts and rear. Note that a set is each size piston. (they fit in the groove of the caliper body... not the piston) 06431-MA3-405 SEAL SET, PISTON 06451-GE2-405 SEAL SET, PISTON 06451-MZ2-405 SEAL SET, PISTON 43352-568-003 SCREW, BLEEDER 43353-461-771 CAP, BLEEDER 45111-MAJ-G41 O-RING (2.5X1.5) From what CBRQuad stated... maybe it wasnt necessary, and the bleeding and adding more fluid dislodged the trapped/stuck debris?? I cleaned a lot of gunk out of the rears on the rebuild.

I do... but I have a 240 pound friend that helps me!! The cheap stand I use from harbor freight doesnt hold the rim well enough to do it by your self. And yes I added a large floor plate and bolted it to that. +1 on the dirt bike tires... man those are a bitch! But with two people, we can do it easily enough. I found if you have the spoons and the lube it works pretty well... again the complaint being the rims wont hold in the mount. Balancing, I take it back to the dealer or Cycle Gear to balance.

Thanks for checking Keith! That is what I needed to know. I checked the three yellows against a ground at the R/R plug (not really the plug cause its burnt, but from the wires never the less) and I dont get any continuity or resistance (I switched the leads to make sure). The book shows that the standard is .22-.26 ohms but then states that there should not be any/no continuity. I don't have continuity. I checked the three yellows against a ground at the 3P white plug and I dont get any continuity or resistance (I swithched the leads to make sure). The book shows that the standard is .22-.26 ohms as well but then states that there should not be any/no continuity. I don't have continuity. At this point I am thinking I am ok as far as Stator and R/R. I can't adjust my voltmeter to go any lower than 2000 ohms. Would a bad battery cause the short in the red wire... enough to melt the plug?

Greetings, The + lead to my R/R somehow touched/burned/overheated and came in contact with one of the yellow wires in the plug. So I have a big crispy plastic mess! I want to see if the R/R is still good. If someone has the Yamaha R/R and could check resistance for me, I would greatly appreciate it. Attached is a jpeg which shows what I am looking for and the measurements that I have on my R/R. I have my voltmeter set to Resitance @2K I am off to check resistance on the wires them selves. I need to figure out what caused the short. If you all have any suggestions, please let me know. Thanks! Kelly PS I have a 1997 Honda Blackbird. The Yamaha R/R was replaced about a year ago and I have put about 5k miles on the bike since the R/R swap with no issues until today.

Not sure of your location... but here in Texas its been 100 degree days. Could it be the vacuum line/pressure relief line/valve from the gas tank building up too much pressure? Each time you stopped it looks like you popped the top on the tank to either fill/replace the gas. The other time was when you swapped out the PCI. Did you pop the top on the tank then as well?

It looks like a giant finger print!!

I wanna see.... I wanna see! I am not able to see a link or picture in either firefox or IE. Can you repost the link to the pictures?

Reply back with the Voltages as well... that helps troubleshoot the problem. I think there is a sticky on starter/relay troubleshooting. Its a general motorcycle troubleshooting procedure that comes in very handy! EDITED Here is the link to the FAQ. FAQ

Question... In the prone position, how far is the shooter scooted back from the recoil? What does it feel like against the shoulder when you shoot it?

Stan, When you reference "They" are you meaning the pens that that the disc's traverse back and forth or the seals inside the calipers that need to be greased? Can you specifically list the grease your using? Last time I pulled my fronts, and cleaned them out, I just used brake fluid... I can see greasing the piston and seal.... just never thought about using a grease and assumed the brake fluid would work. Stan, I will give you a call tonight about the head bearings. If they werent put on correctly, wouldnt they not line up at all? Going from memory here which is foggy at best... but the spacers installed incorrectly put the disc way out and it wont even fit in the caliper slot?? K

I may not be using the right vocabulary... What I was calling a race the link to Ayers is calling it a "head pipe bearing" (Number 7). The the head pipe bearing (not roller bearing) (number7) is what I was tapping with a cylindrical tube and hammer to "press/tap" the pipe head bearing down onto the steering stem further. The tapping on the head pipe bearing pushed the roller bearing up out of where it was seated on the steering stem. I don't think I put the number 7 head pipe bearing in upside down, but it is possible. The roller bearings can only go one way right... skinny side down first and the wide end at the top, like a triangle pointing down. So the head pipe bearing was sticking about a few cunt hairs about (1/32 to 1/16) above the steering head. Is that ok, since the dust seal is supposed to cover the number 7 head pipe bearing? I am wondering if I don't have the bottom dust seal and number 8 head pipe bearing (roller bearing) down all the way against the bottom of the lower steering stem. I don't have a center stand. My blackbird has the full two brothers exhaust, so the center stand was removed. I thought about drilling holes in the floor and installing eye bolts but thats invasive to the garage. Last time when I took the forks off, I used a POS lift for cruisers, and cringed every time the bike remotely moved as it was not all that steady. CbrxxQuad... that red bike you have is pure sex. If you ever sell it, can I have first dibs? Even with the bike tore apart, that red still caches my eyes!

Thanks all for the input so far. I finally got a chance to work on it last night. I pulled everything off, I checked the double nut and the retaining washer with the tabs, and the tabs were still in tact, so that the top and bottom nut could not turn away from the top nut. I noticed that my bearing/top race does not sit flush inside the steering head. Meaning that if you were to lay a piece of paper completely over the top and cover the steering head the bearing/race sit above that plane. So I thought I would tap the race down a little further. (Note I had the front wheel on the ground not up in the air) So after a little pounding on the top race I ended up jarring the bearing/top race out. Actually just poped it off the stem. So now it looks like I am committed again to having to redo the whole thing again. Does anyone see any reason why I couldn't take an engine hoist and use a chain and attach it to my engine cage to lift the front of the bike up in the air? I had an engine cage made with sliders. It connects to each side of the frame, with a U shaped bar that goes under the bike. Thanks again!

Motorcycle Superstore sent me an add yesterday on tires. 33-3 off, but I think its only a two day sale. It ends today. Motorcycle Superstore Add

:icon_shocked: That is a very reassuring story. I run PR2s. I hope they are capable of the same performance if that ever happens to me. I think I would shit myself if I stopped and saw something like that. On a slightly related topic, has anyone else noticed the Pilot Powers bleed air. I had to top them up constantly. Friends noticed it too after I mentioned it. (Once a week, not dangerous or anything). I only had one set but I really liked them. I check the PR2s often but they rarely need more air. I noticed that too.... but it turns out mine was the stems. I did an experiment with the front using a steel stem, and the rear with the rubber stem, and guess which one leaks? The rubber stem. Not bad like you state... just every week or two you need to check for a drop of a few pounds.

TIRE SALE! MOTORCYCLE SUPERSTORE! http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/28/...ires-Tires.aspx

Yes... the good moly grease!

Why do you replace them? What symptoms do you experience that lets you know the wheel bearings are about to go? What grease are you using to pack them in? It just seems really odd that you are going through so many bearings! Where are Hobbie and Skull now? They would have a "ball" with this sentence!

Yes, I did install the washer. It goes in-between the two nuts, to keep the top and bottom one from separating and keeping the nuts tight. *wondering what Hobbie and Skull are going to twist that last sentence into?*

WOW thats what a black blackbird is supposed to look like!! Very nice bike! Thats like 383 miles a year!! LOL

Sweet! Good find! I need to replace mine as well and the price seems right! Post up when you get it! Thanks!

Thanks Redwing! I would be curious of the price he is asking? The plastics are easily enough replaced, but those dang things always cost a lot of money from the stealers. The older the bike gets the less the new matches the old. Something as old as a 95 would most likely need the rubber lines replaced as well (brake/clutch). Please see what he is asking for the bike, it may be worth the trip. I started looking here at DFW Craigs list, and I found a few older F4's... I did not realize those could be had for around $2500 to $3200!!