JoWhee

Trying to help out a local guy..Is the ECU for the '00 model the same? I know had sent one to the US, to be flashed but never heard anything back. Anyhow, if someone has a spare for a 99 let me know how much to ship to Canada

I thought the law was S.S.S. Shoot Shovel Shut-up I guess we need to add another S Suppress the camera footage.

I bought 3 of their regular cameras, 2 are all setup, the other requires me to get into the attic to wire up power, and I’m not doing that until it’s under 100 degrees in there.

That's usually just a slower fan speed,

You live in the south, why not just use air conditioning? It will not only dehumidify, but keep your place comfortable. a 12000BTU unit doesn't cost much more to operate than a humidifier. The bonus is if you get a "heat pump" you can use it to heat the space on cool days.

Woah horsey: If ANY A/C unit needs to be "topped up" it's because it has a leak, it has nothing to do with optimal performance. Leak tests are only usually scheduled on systems larger than 5 tons, or if there's evidence of a leak. I have got 30-year-old units that have never leaked, and new units that have leaks from the factory, or from a poor installation. Split A/C units that leak are almost always from the flare nut at the evaporator, it's why I braze the pipe, it cuts callbacks by 80%. Topping up refrigerant is NOT part of maintenance and with newer refrigerants shouldn't be done, products like R-410A aren't homogeneous so if you've lost part of your charged amount, the best (and only) practice is to find and repair the leak, recover the entirety of refrigerant from the system, pull a vacuum test and or pressure test. Anyone who just tops up a system is just setting up for issues further down the line. As for dehumidifiers, small or portable A/C and domestic refrigerators, they're pretty much disposable because no-one wants to fix them, it's not worth it.

I just looked I to the wyze, is 1080 good enough resolution? John, it looks like you can use them outdoors with the outdoor mount, it looks like it’s a shell that shields the unit from the elements.

TL;DR any suggestions for a home camera setup? So with the whole lockdown and people losing their minds, someone has been knocking on doors randomly in my hood, egging houses cars etc. I know it's mostly kids/teens and harmless but annoying. I'm thinking about getting a 4-6 camera setup, I was looking at the lorax brand in costco, it's got 6 cameras, and a 1TB HD for storage. I didn't get it because it gets bad reviews. I'd prefer local storage rather than cloud, because I'm a cheap fuck and I don't want to pay a subscription. A doorbell camera wouldn't work for me due to placement. I've got 120V at one corner of the house to catch the driveway and the side door, 120V in the garage for duh the garage. I'd have to get up into the attic to wire a camera up for the front door, not a big deal. Wireless transmitting would be best for me. Probably 4k cameras as opposed to 1080. My budget is around $500 ($350 USD). I haven't made up my mind about anything yet, just looking for opinions on brand, technology, etc... And because I'm a little obsessive, here's a drawing the orange box is my router, and where I'd put the camera NVR/hub the green camera would be in the garage the others would be outside, under a soffit.

I don’t know, one of my buddies managed to get a hold of the guy and it’s what the seller told him. Most of the posts I’m seeing about it are saying SCAM, but no one but me seems to have noticed the large hole next to the headlight and missing fairing bolts, probably why it’s going so cheap. That and it hasn’t run in 13 years, so it’s going to need work.

$600 canadian, a few riding buddies are interested in it too. Some jerk offered the seller $900 sigh unseen for it. I'm guessing the full akra is probably worth at lest $300.

Akrapovic exhaust. I moved overseas in 2007, so the bike has been stored in a heated garage since then. Bike was running when put in storage. Throttle is gummed up so it needs work to get going. It will be a nice bike with some work or take it for parts. I'll take the best offer. Prefer text or email.

Not mine, obviously it needs work. It’s localise to me so I could go have a look and probably help with transport. edit for English link. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-moto-sport/longueuil-rive-sud/1997-honda-cbr-1100xx-blackbird-55433-kms/1500242106 https://www.kijiji.ca/v-moto-sport/longueuil-rive-sud/1997-honda-cbr-1100xx-blackbird-55433-kms/1500242106

I did, I couldn't find a direct replacement so I found something of the same size, and voltage. I cut the wires off the old battery and soldered the old connector and bit of wire to the new battery. It was a small and fiddly job for my ham fists, but it worked out well in the end and intended up with a larger capacity battery.

Ugh it's crazy, I can get stuff shipped from China and Europe faster and cheaper than I can from the US now. You'd think having that huge border with multiple land crossings would make things quicker and easier, but nope.

Geez that's like shipping to Canada. I feel your pain.

Graham was making them out of the UK. I had a set on my 'bird. I believe he also has made a kit to use a rear brembo. He usually makes a run when he's got 5 orders. What isn't mentioned is that you'll need to change your front master cylinder. You options are the brembo 19mm radial master cylinder, or one from (not positive) a CBR f3, it's a 3/4" master, and looks identical to oem.

You are correct about the 99-00 being the only FI bikes with analogue speedometers. The fi on them is a little buggy, they have a very rich spot (as most early century hondas did) but it's an easy fix with a power commander. IIRC there's also a minor change in fuel capacity between the early and late FI bikes.

"Canada eh?" the XX came in black in '00 up north, source: Mine black with red XX stickers. Personally, I'd stay carbie or get a later FI bike.

I've decated (Sorry Greta) the bike and bypassed the exhaust valve in the process, it's really smoothed out the bike. But as you said about your 999 it's geared really high, and I'd rather have the power down low instead of only shifting into 6th at 90+ mph.

The factory OEM is 15t and rubber mount. I'd love to find a 14 tooth rubber mount but it's probably as rare as hens teeth. I'm finding that the factory gearing on my Multistrada is too high.

GROAN! Not just at the joke, but I actually googled it!

I'm considering a front sprocket change, from 15 to 14 teeth. Any insights on which brands are recommended or to avoid? It's not on a 'bird, but I'd bet folding money that someone on here has some experience/ intimate knowledge of sprockets in general. The brands I've seen so far are Supersprok and Drive system, all in steel

Please tell me you labeled it as dildos

Make sure you get a second controller, otherwise you're going to be bored watching me play Forza

Mine magically vanished, I did have a chance to try it, the size of great for a bike and it cleans very well.