JoWhee

There's an XX on my local kijiji with them, it looks funny to me, but the picture quality isn't great. http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-...QAdIdZ233884416 They look cheap compared to the oem mirrors.

I've decided to go back to my first love a black bird, but I've got to sell my v-strom first. I'm asking $4500 firm. The bike has ~64000 km. I'm including pretty much everything I have for it in the sale, I'm not interested in selling anything separately unless the bike is sold first. The ecu has been teka-ed to run fine on with the stock pipes and two brothers exhaust M5 carbon fiber with p1 power tips to make it a little quieter, both of which are included. I'm currently running the stock pipes. I have a PCIII sitting around for the bike also, it's a 30 minute operation to swap the pipes. The windshield is a cut down secdem, I also have the stock windshield. With this and the bar end mirrors I'm in the wind, but no buffeting, I also have the stock mirrors, and bar ends. Other extras on the bike: Ricks fork brace and rear wheel spacer 2 years ago, and rear wheel bearings were all changed and upgraded to two sided seal bearings at the same time. 530 chain with 16 tooth sprocket front & stock rear, new this year. New EBC HH pads front and rear this year. Front fender extender, and rear hugger new this year. K&N filter in april of this year, as well as iridium spark plugs. Oxford heated grips GIVI crash bars, new this spring. Speedo healer to correct for the gearing change. Two extra seats, one stock, and one modified so I could slide further back, which I had before the corbin. The clutch slave cylinder was replaced with the newer model this year due to a leak. Tires are tourance exp's front and rear. 10000km on rear, about the same on the front. The Ammo boxes are mounted to a givi rack, the givi side cases aren't included but the ammo boxes and top case are. I don't do much off pavement riding, so the OEM bash plate was done by rhino liner hard line, not just the spray on stuff, it ended up costing me more than a new one (live and learn). I'd prefer someone local-ish within 300km, but hey if you want to ship it, that's your business too. The only trade I'm open to is a CBR 1100 xx, preferably an FI model but we can talk. If you want to pay less I'm willing to exclude the corbin and two brothers/ pc III, to make the price more attractive.

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1/8" shouldn't be a big deal, get a wax ring with a plastic (abs?) fitting on it and you should be OK with the existing spacers in place. As for removal wear some disposable gloves, put some newspaper next to the toilet so you can remove it place it beside the hole, then carefully move it outside while keeping it level, even if you drain the tank and try and empty the bowl there will always be a little water left over in the trap. Dump the water outside and place the toilet on some more newspaper or something disposable, the reason being is that old wax is usually very sticky and not pleasant to remove from your hands, carpet, floor or your deck. Two wax rings may be necessary, but could squeeze out when you re-seat the toilet.

Do yourself a favor, don't go cheap on the fence I did and I regret it.

It would be unlikely that a brown out or a spike would kill a heating element, it's anvil technology. If you had a loss of water pressure, and your tank emptied even partially it could have uncovered the upper element, thus burning it out. It's a $20 part. This is what it sounds like since you say you can get in two showers. Do you get hot water first thing in the morning and when you come home from work when no one has used any hot water? It's a $20 part. Make sure the power is off when you fix it, or call a plumber.

If the filter is clean then it sounds like you have a refrigerant leak. Chances are pretty good if you have a leak and call a refrigeration mechanic he will just fill up your system without actually looking for the leak, if it's the first time you've had to service the unit in 16 years you're lucky/unlucky. Lucky that it lasted so long, but unlucky that you may have a slow leak. If you're handy you can do the following. Make sure the unit is powered off before starting, shut off the breaker or remove the service plug. Have a look at all the lines that are easy to see, if the copper lines seem to be oily, you probably have a leak there. To further test a few drops of dish soap in a cup of water and lather the pipes, you will see bubbles where the leak is, much in the same way an auto mechanic looks for a leak in a tire. Last try bribing an HVAC guy to lend you his leak detector.. I prefer Baileys

http://ottawa.en.craigslist.ca/mcy/655266665.html If you ride why would you get rid of it because you're getting married? Get a bike for your wife (it will be a good trade).

I was perusing kijiji looking for some parts and found an '01 blue bird for sale. BB for sale

I've been installing a birch laminate here. It looks kind of orange but works well it's a cheap Chinese floor with an AC3 finish, I've had scraps of it out on the deck for over a year now in the snow rain and freezing temperatures, still no noticeable swelling or anything. I'm very happy with it. I'm even considering putting a similar product in the kitchen. Edit: depending on the value of your house and resale, you may want to go hardwood, some markets seem to be worth the extra cost.

You can probably google a manual. Propane and NG have different properties, it may or may not run if you use propane in a NG engine, or it may run poorly. If it has spark plugs remove them shoot some oil in the cylinders and hand crank it to make sure the engine isn't seized. If there's no spark plugs it may be a converted diesel in which case it should burn just about anything.

Just a few of things to keep in mind: 1) it's a bigger machine, you will probably have to upgrade the electrical, the wiring and the circuit breaker. 1a) you may have to go with bigger pipes to and from the condenser. 2) is it an r-22 or 410 machine? 410 runs at a higher pressure, make sure your welds are good. 3) do you have enough space for the new evaporator? (the inside unit) If your brother-in-law is an hvac guy most of this shouldn't be an issue, congrats on your great deal.

It sounds like your thermostat has blown the fan relay/switch. It the override ON switch you are talking about on the thermostat? or on the Lennox unit? if it's the thermostat, was there a delay before when the unit would start and then the fan would come on? To check the thermostat, start the unit to cool, and check if there is a signal on the "G" output of the thermostat, which is the fan relay. It seems your cooling power probably comes in on RC, then when cooling is needed it sends the signal to Y the compressor and G the fan. If it's the thermostat don't fret they are about $40

I'm not sure if it's on the market yet, their website doesn't give much information, but this sounds interesting to me: Microwave water heater

Strangely enough since this spring the smell is gone. I'm wondering if it was the vent which had partially frozen over and causing the drainage to become a closed system, trying to balance pressure thru the weakest link, the bathroom sink, thereby emptying the p-trap. I'll also look into the overflow as you suggested, it could also be my GF has moved in and the sink is getting used more than twice a day too.

I like the floating floor myself, I've installed an AC3 quality throughout the house, and when I get around to doing the kitchen I'll probably install it there also, but an AC4 or AC5 quality. My folks recently installed an AC4 floating floor in their kitchen and it was a top click type, much easier to install then the typical slid in and click type. It also had a manufactures defect in the pattern, it looked like there was a piece of masking tape on the floor, the installer scraped at it with a flat head screwdriver quite hard and it never damaged or scratched the floor, it was also a breeze to change the piece. With a good under-padding and a decent quality of product it's much nicer to walk on and stand on. If you're looking to save you can get the AC3 floor, I got the cheap stuff from china, I figured it would be OK for bedrooms office etc. I installed it last fall and my waste pieces stayed out on the deck all winter covered in snow, no water damage & no warping either, I was impressed. I haven't finished installing it yet, so I don't' know how it's going to hold up in the office under my fat ass on the rolling chair.

Thanx for the info I'll get up there tomorrow, after the snow melts. I suspect it may be the washing machine. I haven't used it in a few days and no smell, I've used every other water fixture since then. Is it possible the pressure and flow from the washing machine is too much for the stack and causing suction to empty the p-trap in the sink? It would probably suck from there if the vent is plugged, the sink is the closest fixture to the vent. Any roof walkers wanna get up on my roof for me?

I get the smell when the taps are on I thought it was the water at first and by doing a few tests like putting the plug in the drain and filling up the sink with water I don't get the smell. I'm wondering with the water running if the flow of water is making the trap empty partially, allowing the smell to come up. The tap water everywhere else in the house smells ok.

City water, the sink is used several times a day but I get the funky smell when it's been about 4 hours since last use. I'm pretty sure it's not the water supply it doesn't' smell anywhere else in the house and only near the sink when I'm brushing my teeth (or taking a dump ) I have changed the sink and faucet (renos, not because of the smell) and the smell persists. I'm thinking maybe somehow the gas is bubbling up thru the water in the trap.

I've got a sulphur/sewer gas smell coming from my bathroom sink, I've pulled off the P trap and it's full of water, which should block the smell. Any suggestions?

Pictures would help, but I seem to recall in another thread you had some shitty filter in your furnace is it stil the same one Dave's furnace? It shouldn't be a problem to have it on the concrete floor. You should check the hvac unit in the closet for a filter and change it at least seasonally, more if you have allergies and many pets. Get a good filter 3M makes some good ones a MERV value of 10 or higher is good. The number is usually written on the side. HVAC unit outside (aka condensing unit), as long as it's working leave it, check to see if the fins aren't clogged, pollen and leaves can clog it causing a reduced efficiency/capacity, clean it with by running a garden hose thru it and maybe rubbing LIGHTLY with a brush to not damage or bend the fins. Garage door opener: lubricate, make sure there is no car under it in case you drop lube, I use motorcycle chain lube, only do this if it's a chain model not a belt model. Dryer duct: clean out with a vacuum cleaner, and if you're up to it take the back off the dryer (make sure it's unplugged first) and clean out what is visible. While you're at it do mine too.

good plan on the carpet I'm still ripping up that glued down shit

hahah I'll trade you for a bathroom remodel.

I've been using the 6" scraper along with a puty knife works great, now I'm getting the click floor down it looks even better. [attachmentid=5508]