JoWhee

Crap when I called I almost had them then some bitch got on the line and said I'd have to go through an authorized corbin center and MAYBE they would order them for me, since I'm not the original purchaser. Fortunately some M8x70 x1.25 bolts and home made spacers seem to have done the trick.

Anyone have those 4 special bolts for beetle bags hanging around? I have the bracket, but I'm looking for the 4 studs that hold the top into the rear sub-frame.

I'm pretty sure, that the wingrack won't work with corbin beetle bags. I'm hoping that the SW moteck top case system will, but even that may require removing the top box to fully open the beetle bags.

These things usually go pretty quick, it's probably just because of the winter season. I'd be interested if I hadn't just acquired a set.

$150 racetech valves $100 on new springs $50 on new oil $50 on beer $150 on hookers

If I Recall Correctly.

The ecu was changed in '01, The power commander is different also. IIRC the '00 uses different sensors (barometric vs. O2 sensor according to the service manual). But I have heard that only the California models used the O2 sensor. I'd offer to let you try my ECU ( I have a spare for my '00) but I'm a little far away.

Would this work? Maybe even the guards from an '03 strom as they only mount to the master cylinder. http://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=30

I'm curious why you would want one? The bird doesn't seem to need one. Unlike my v-strom.

You mentioned backfiring through the mufflers are you running slipons or stock? Some bikes require that you block off the PAIR valve to stop the backfiring when using atermarket exhausts. I guess I'm getting worse mileage than you, about 12km/l or ~250 per tankful, I've stopped worrying about it. I will be having the valves checked over the winter.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the thing that fixed my rich mixture was en ecu swap. But mine was rich across all four, but the bike is new to me, maybe it started with one cylinder. Things I checked were the battery, which was replaced for a different reason. Engine coolant sensor. I was wondering about the barometric sensor in the rear cowl, as it seems to be exposed, but I never got around to testing that, as I found my ecu on kijiji for $100. I had also checked out the iat sensor in the air box checked out ok. It seems strange to me that an ecu could go bad like this, I thought it would just make the bike stop working all together, but I can't argue with my results. I may crack open the old one and have a look at it I thought it would be just some computer circuits, and a programme in there, nothing that could change or wear out.

I was running rich, but across all four cylinders. At first I thought maybe the ecu had been yoshed or teka'ed, but apparently that is impossible with our bikes, and there was no power commander. I looked for one of those chips that can magically add 25 hp, no dice, I changed the FPR, the engine coolant temperature sensor, new plugs, lots of seafoam. I found an ecu for about $100 so I picked it up, and after about 200km no more black smoke, but coincidentally, I had left my gps on and killed the bikes battery so it got a new battery also. I never had a running problem with the bike, just lots of black smoke when getting on the throttle, and really sooty pipes. HTH

Care to explain your solution? Coincidentaly I've been having a rich mixture issue, and ended up swapping out the ECU. I also had left my GPS on for a week and killed the battery, rather then wait to charge it up I just bought a new one. No more black smoke. Now I don't know if it was the battery change or the ecu swap, what would a new battery solve?

Try swapping injectors, say #4 with #1 then see if your #1 gets sooty.

That is a great deal, I loved my old wing (same year). Have you tried to sell it on http://nakedgoldwings.com/ ?

That sounds like a canadian-tire set, they are journeyman quality, but like the craftsman they are guaranteed forever, it's what I've been using at home for decades. For work it's either greenlee or westward, the boss would have kittens if I showed up with snapon, that and I can never seem to get a truck out my way, they would probably also disappear. The Can-tire tools are easily replaced if you break one with no hassle or receipt needed. As for those weird screwdrivers that you may need once, trust me, the one time you need it you'll be smiling. Make sure if you get a set it's for Canada, for some reason the USA doesn't use Robertson.

Have a look at the switch connected to the rear brakes, maybe it got bumped out of it's bracket or just needs an adjustment. Did you lower your pegs, or adjust the height of the pedal recently?

You can download from rapidshare for free it just takes longer, but for a small file like that it takes all of 3 extra clicks, and 10 seconds. wilbers_setup.zip

Bump: I'm also looking for the tail light connectors, if you cut yours off to install an undertail I'm interested, as long as there's an inch or two of wire on them(enough to solder).

Bump because of edit.

SOLD

So I'm having a similar problem, I spent the day yesterday checking out all the vacuum, and PAIR lines, all good except the breather line at the front of the airbox (PCV?) wasn't connected, would it make much difference? I've already changed out the FPR and air filter. And run a can of seafoam through 2 fillups. I've even reverted to the stock exhaust.

I'm looking for the rear fender/battery tray for an FI Blackbird, I chopped mine to install an undertail, which I ended up hating. Anyone have one lying around?

@LAMZ Hopefully it isn't a pinched nerve, I've got one in my neck, it makes my right elbow and two finger go numb/tingly. Much to the chagrin of my doctor and RMT, the angle of my neck while riding the bird helps.

Wow it looks like an ambulance in that colour, the trailer hitch is for hauling stretchers?