Eric_The_Jew

I found a place that makes one for the bird: http://www.r-r-racing.com/randrbrackets.html Only $25, too!

Anyone ever find an aftermarket company that makes one of these?

Just curious for those who have this pipe, what have your results been like on the dyno? I'm looking good before/after numbers, not just the peak HP you got after installing the pipe. Even better if someone has a chart that overlays the stock run with the TiForce dyno run.

DANG!!! You are a Jew! :icon_clap: You say it like it's a bad thing

^^^ Exactly. I can find all kinds of FI Blackbird manuals for download, but I don't think anyone has the carbed model in PDF format.

If you don't buy the block off plates, what caps work well for blocking off the stock reed valve openings and airbox openings? Also, where can you get the caps? I know for the ZX-12r a handlebar end plug off of a bicycle sealed up the airbox hole perfectly

Can someone please scan the pages of the service manual that details the carb synch procedure for the '97-'98 models and send them to me? Thanks.

Please see the post that I made on this subject: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=40655&hl= According to the experts, you will also need the FI model's axle and spacers. Hope this helps.

I'm an idiot.....I was confusing this post with my other post regarding front wheel differences between models. Thanks so much bear. Now I can sleep easy. You didn't go taking off your rear wheel just to answer my question, did you?

What are you referring to? The front wheel bearings?

Thanks for the info, cbrbear. The Factory brand needles have 4 different clip positions, but they give you 8 clips? (are they just throwing in some extras in case you break them??) Also, would you mind sharing what exhaust pipe/intake combinations that they have listed in the instructions? Thanks.

This is specifically directed at Factory jet kits (not Dynojet). I'm looking at buying one for my '98 but I had a few questions. Does this kit come with a wide assortment of main jets and needle washers? Or is it simply one set of mains and one needle/clip combo that is supposed to work for all combinations (slip ons, stock cans, 4into1 full system, etc.). If the kit indeed comes with different sized jets, do the instructions tell you their recommended jetting combinations for slip ons, stock, full sys, etc.?

Well, if anyone is planning on removing their rear wheel in the near future, I would appreciate it if you would give these spacers a quick look over just so I can rest easy. Basically, check to see if they are different diameters and if they are idiot proof. So I won't have to pull of my rear wheel again just to check Thanks

Sounds good to me. So since the Marchesinis do not use the stock spacers (they are built into the wheel), I will just order the '99 and up brake rotors and axle to fit the '99 and up Marchesini wheel, right?

Unfortunately I had the spacers and cush drive off to clean them, so i've removed all evidence

I had my rear wheel off today to get a new tire mounted. I took the axle spacers out and removed the cush drive to clean everything really well. However, I noticed while playing around on the parts microfiche earlier that there are two different part numbers for the left and right axle spacers. I paid no attention to which spacer went on which side when I installed the wheel earlier today. My question is, are these things idiot proof to where they will only fit on the correct side? This is really starting to bug me, because i'm obsessive compulsive and i'm starting to wonder if I installed them correctly. Could one of the resident experts help me out here?

Bear, I think this thread just answered my question: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=21604&hl= Evidently this swap has been done, eliminating my guesswork! Thanks for the input, guys.

Hmm.....I had never even noticed/paid attention to that useful threads section, but there's some good stuff in there :icon_clap: So from what I read here: "The front wheel hub is larger to accomodate larger front wheel bearings. Although the wheel spokes and rim remain the same, this is an entirely different wheel than the early models. The front rotors are also different, as they require a larger bolt circle on the carrier to fit the larger hub of wheel. Complete wheel assemblies are interchangeable between carb and FI models...individual pieces are not." If I order the Marchesini wheelset for the '99 and up and put it on my '98 model, I will need to buy rotors for the '99 and up as well. Will I also need the axle from the '99 and up?

Great info cbrbear! I have one question though.....Ronayers.com's microfiche lists two different part numbers for the rear wheel assembly. Only the last three digits of the part number are different. I was wondering what was up with this? Where did you get your info that the rear wheels were identical? Maybe these different part numbers are for different colors? Did Honda ever put anything but a black wheel on any of the Birds?

Okay, I have the urge to slap on some of the 10 spoke Marchesini forged magnesium wheels on my 'Bird. I think gold Y-spoke wheels would look shit hot on my all black machine. The problem is, Marchesini lists an application for 99-on birds, but doesn't list one for the '97-98. I tried deciphering part numbers on the RonAyers.com microfiche, but not much luck. Any idea what the differences are between the wheels on the new and old models?

Thanks for the advice, Pete. So it really isn't that much of a pain just to pull the whole carb bank?? I was told I could yank the bowls by simply removing the fuel tank and leaving the airbox intact. All I need to do for this project is access the pilot jets. Whaddya think? Pull the carbs or yank the bowls with the carbs and airbox intact?

I have read where the concensus is 3 turns out from fully seated on the pilot screws. My question is, has anyone counted the number of turns their pilot screws were when they were factory preset? Just curious how close they were to the recommended 3 turns out.

Just a quick question before I go tearing shit apart. Do the XX's carbs have a drain screw for each float bowl? The reason i'm asking is because I am pulling the pilot jets on my '98 model tonight, and i'll be doing it from the comfort of my living room . Just wanted to be sure gas doesn't go pouring all over the carpet when I do this. (yes, I am aware my house is still going to smell like gas for a few days regardless) Also, a ton of gas shouldn't pour out of the tank when I pull off the fuel line, correct? The vaccum operated petcock should stop the flow, yes? One more thing....would you guys suggest valve grinding compound to use on the float bowl screws? I know these strip out easily on dirt bikes, but don't know if they're a pain to get of on the XX. Sorry for the 20 questions.

Good to hear things are working out. Just so ya know, my buddy has an RC51. He had the balls to run 0W Mobil1 synthetic in his bike. Two oil changes of the 0W and 6,000 HARD miles later, his clutch is still working perfectly fine!

I was wanting to go with a smaller, lighter chain when the stocker finally shits the bed. My zx10r had a 525 size DID that held up just fine to 160 hp, so i'm sure a 525 should work well on the Bird. I'm sure finding a 525 rear sprocket will be no problem, but will I be able to find a front for the Bird in a 525 size? Has anyone gone this route with their chain? I'm' thinking 525 would be the perfect size. Many of the literbike guys go with 520s, but I feel that is just TOO small for a bike with this much torque.