paddysteel7

Hi I could seriously recomend Dunlop Roadsmarts I was persuaded to use avons but when I went to Dunlop I realised what I was missing. Qualifiers and Qualifier RR are great but only last 4,000miles. The roadsmart grips better as for how long they last I would have to check my Friendly garage (TPG in Brighton). I have to admit they did let go in the snow on a side street.

Hi I have used the tyre dog and it nearly ripped the whole valve stem out of the wheel. you need metal stems that bolt into the rims as the rubber ones will pull out I was showing them off when I saw the stems where bent over I thought wheel balance was the problem but I think it is the weight being at the end of the valve stem and oscilating when driving. There ok driving in town.

Hi I have had a similar problem at 40mph and 80 odd mph I thought it was balance but it turned out to be the chain which nearly split completely before I found out (one of the pins had split but both sides where still there so it looked ok). Check the chain for a very loose spot every milimetre of it.. I had a similar problem with a car and it was proshaft bearings same speeds. Also check tire pressure. As for fork clamps I have dropped my forks 5mm and raised back end 6mm to speed up steering no problems

Hi Fuel light on at 100-120 vand tank dry at 147. found out about the 147 when the fuel light failed and I had to push the bike to a garage after work. stage one dynojet kit and K&N filter micron carbon slip ons with 4-6 degree of ignition advance. Paddy

Hi If it drys out and warms up I'll check the revs out but not checked them yet. If possible ill get a dyno with this setup Paddy

Hi Well the vibes are barely felt and occur at 7-8000 rpm mainly also at 3-4000rpm you can see it in the mirrors. I have only disconnected the balance shafts by removing the idler gear from one and the gear and cush drive rubbers from the other as I dont have the blanking plugs yet or the time to remove the crankshaft. It does feel a little like a highly tuned car engine. The vibes are high frequency but low amplitude. I dont think it is enogh to make your hands ache. I have heard before that the jap stuff is fairly well balanced from factory. Paddy

Its very hard to say at the moment as it has been icy and wet since i got it running again buit it does have a vibey feel to it and a quick pick of the revs I dropped it a week ago in the snow 1" on brick surface. Acceleration seems to be less dependant on gear but bear in mind that I have been riding a VTR1000 firestorm while the bird was off the road. I gather that without balancing the crank I am going to wear out all the main bearings. But I am hoping I hve enogh to last untill I can put a balanced crank in with balanced rods or Carrillo rods. The factory pro detent kit is amamazing. Paddy

quote name='rockmeupto125' Just like they told you on the other forum. Drop the engine and do it the right way. You'll only end up pulling the motor, and its a lot easier to do at first then once you've tried to disassemble it halfway. *hint---you can't separate the case halves in the frame. Sorry mate I can see the light now job done out of frame not easy on my own with a scissor jack. It was the lower frame mount that stops the lower case dropping out when in the frame. removed balance weights at the same time cause I couldnt be bothered to re-time them. Paddy

They failed to tell me why in enough detail only to read the manuals which I have done and so far I have not seen any proof that the cases cannot be split in the frame which would appear to be easier as the frame will support the weight of the engine all I have to carry is the weight of the lower case and the gearbox. I did think it would be a problem when I saw that there were no seperate shells for the main bearings but the bolts can be accesed from the sump so I'll have to tie up the crankshaft at the ends with rope. I have replaced the engine before and this was not easy even with a trolley jack. By the way are you stalking me Paddy

Hi all I need to replace my gearbox and selectorforks and drum as it is jumping out of 4th and 5th gears so quickly that it is hard work getting in to 6th. If I let the clutch out in 4th or 5th up or down the box then a series of clunks occur before it jumps down to 3rd gear. I am planning to replace the gearbox without taking the engine out of the frame as I am in a rush because It is my only transport. So far I have only come across one hindrance which is it looks like the crankshaft will fall out when I take the lower engine case off. Paddy