02XXCA

One of these day? You're quicker than I am! I'm still futsin around measuring twice cut once.. Only one, that's not bad. I had a quote once from I90 Honda, I think it was $550 weather the have to change shims or not. I bet in you case they would say it's good and just button it up. That's why I wanted to do it my self. How far did you strip your bird down. I followed the manual and my bird is basically naked up front. db Yeah, that it one good thing about doing it yourself, is knowing the true outcome instead of the easy way out by the dealer. I pulled the side plastics and dropped the front raditor and oil cooler to get into the front of the motor. I definately need a lift as I hate bending over. One good thing is that I will know it done right and no corners are cut! I just don't trust dealers!

I just measured mine as I have 69K. Exhaust 1 2 3 4 8-7 8-8 9-9 8-8 Intake 6-6 6-5 6-5 6-6 It looks like I need to replace one on the exhaust for sure, but I was thinking I might as well make them all on the loose side so I don't have to do it for another 69K! With them getting tighter over time, is that caused by the seats wearing and the valves sitting lower? With the tighter clearance do the vales end up with a longer duration? Is that bad? How much money am I saving by doing this myself? How many shop hours do they charge for doing the valve adjustment?

Mines 02 and it's pink coming out of the speed sensor on the case.

I can't seem to find the rear balancer Idle gear shaft! I can clearly see the Rear Balance Shaft and pinch bolt and the Front Balancer shaft, but is there a third(the rear balancer Idle gear shaft) as the picture definatly shows a third. I found it, damm know I have to try and get to it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Damm, I was betting on the word that most peoples cams were withing spec even with higher milage. I've got 69K and haven't done it yet. I guess I better take a look one of these days.

Have any pics or mockup?

Yeah as these springs were used alot in europe, the feedback we got from Wilber was to use 2.5 weight, the new springs removed the overly harsh bottoming out that the stock springs had when pulling into a driveway over small lip. They still feely fairly soft so I thought about mixing 2.5 with 5 wt to compromise.

Anyone used other than the 2.5 wt recomended on the original group buy? I was going to replace the fork oil and wanted feedback on other alternatives.

What do you do with all those tools? You making a wooden CBR1100XX replacement since Honda doesn"t want to?

Damm that had to hurt! I'm glad it wasn't worse. Get a pair of kevlar gloves!

I would tension the chain so that it's within spec, as the swing arm stand should be fairly close to what it is on the sidestand such that swing arm is not hanging low or overly compressed.

I have had at least 35 40 lb in each side and about 30lbs in the top and still reached 160 MPH and 4000 miles that trip!

There are two parts to the procedure. Yes the first part is done with the engine off. You turn the shaft till you feel resistance and then back off a gradation. When I did that part, nothing really changed. The second part is done with the engine warm and running, which is what I described in the photo post. It created the improvements described in my opening post. Thanks for taking the time, I have a over 65700 miles and I'm hearing a little noise, so I'm going to try and adjust.

It sounded like the manual said adjust with engine cold and turned off, then start and check, adjust if needed then tighten up. Did I miss something?

There's one on the left rear of the engine, just above the water pump. Another on the right rear of the engine, about six inches across from the other one. The third one is on the right front of the engine, down low. I'm a very visual person so the pics would be great plus any nws you have to offer as well! The manual pics, there so close your not sure the engine is not upside down or which side the pic is taken.

I need more pictures! Where in the hell are all the adjustment points. The manual needs more pictures!

Did you get the bike home? I would start by inspecting the chain, how far apart is the engine?

What kind of tire pressure are you running?

Chris, what type of map did you put on you bike? I downloaded a map off of the Two Brothers web site configured for slipons and stock air filter. It felt a little snapier today, but I had also changed plugs and filter which definately needed changing.

Thanks for the offer Tim, I ended up going down to Fry's and picked up a proper USB-serial adapter and was able to read the PC3 withouth a problem.

Well I went back out last night and figure the c7 flash then 50 was telling me 750 revs for the 10 turns. No where in the manual does it tell you. I watched the signal as I turned 1.5 turns and it said c1 plus 05, which then I figured the c represented 100's. Went for a ride today and the pro-oiler is working great. Hookersxx here I come all lubed and ready.

I installed my pro oiler today on my 02 and I tapped the pink wire, did I use the right one? I'm having problems with the sensor when I'm in test mode I get a C7 and then flashes another value. when on the ot screen I only get the ""00." value and not the "00" value that the manual says before turning the tire.

Might just have to make a trip down to Fry's to see if I can pick one up.

Thanks for all the replies, I had tried a usb to serial adapter that came with an APC UPS device. I found some drivers that seem to have loaded on XP, but still no go. I will try and download the software from APC as if I'm going to connect to ups and see if that gets it working. I was concerned that the Com port needed to be tweaked, anyone know what speed and parity and flow control being used by the com port being used is?

Power Commander web sites suck as it doesn't seem to have any of the old software or help on the older PC3. I just picked up a serial PC3 and was trying to see if I could use a usb to serial adapter to talk to the serial PC3. Has anyone tried this and had any luck? I don't have a computer with a serial adapter to I need this to work.