Zero Knievel

Hey John, If you still need one or both stock bars I have them in Boynton and you can have them for $0. Give me a call if interested John Bruyn If you're offering me VFR bars, you're 16 hours too late.

What the heck. I'll give them a try. I could always remove them and sell them if I'm not happy with them. I've got a pair of VFR800 handlebar/clipons coming, so we'll see how that helps the comfort factor.

Here you go...a couple of boobs for your viewing pleasure....

Well, managed to find new(er) handlebars from an '02 VFR800. I'll wait for those to get in before I do more work. Paid $75 (each one) plus $15 for shipping....hope that's fair...cheaper than buying two new ones.

Once you have all the other plastics off (including the windscreen), you take off the mirrors (2 bolts each). That's what holds the front cowl in place. Careful trying to put it all back together, though. Getting the two air intake ducts to stay in place while you position the front cowl back up takes about 5 arms.

No. You want MCW series, not MBG. The earlier model VFR had 41mm fork tubes, not 43mm. And they're not longer, they are just wider end-to-end on the bike because they don't have as acute an angle in drop and pullback as the XX bars. Ah....thanks. I was getting two different views, but I trust the input of those who've done it before.

For an XX you need 01 onward VFR Vtech bars, the earlier bars are 41mm internal diameter the later and XX are 43mm The VFR bars are ~7/8'' higher, ~3/4'' further back and ~1/2'' wider tip>tip than the XX bars Also I found I couldn't tilt the levers down as far as on the XX bars Ah...that's helpful. 2001 or later. You're saying the VFR bars are 1/2" LONGER, then, right? What's odd is that comparing the part numbers, they are identical from 1999 to 2001. That indicates they should be the same. Now later years (e.g, 2005) shows a different part number (MCW instead of MBG).

Other than them being higher, was everything else the same? Esp. length and hardware...just take off one and put on the other?

Well, I made some progress then hit a wall. Re-reading the instructions, I see you are supposed to remove that little ridge on the throttle sleeve (see pics). It took some time working carefully with a Dremmel, mat knife and 4000 grit sandpaper, but I got it done. Then, I used a Dremmel and mat knife to cut away the excess from the Vista as detailed in the Jaws install guide. The Vista still won't work right, chiefly because there is a slight bend in my handlebar (thanks to the bike being dropped a couple years back). It's not much, but it makes the Vista bind against the switch housing. So, I either have to find a way to straighten the part out again or consider replacing it. Time for bar raisers? Thread research indicates I should go with the ones for a VFR800 ('99 VFR800FI Interceptor), if I want to do this. Part No. 53100-MBG-000, HANDLEBAR, R. HANDLE, $164.93 ($148.44 @ www.speedsupplies.com) Part No. 53150-MBG-000, HANDLEBAR, L. HANDLE, $164.93 ($148.44 @ www.speedsupplies.com) -or- http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?p=662 QUESTION: If I went with VFR800 bars, would all other measurements (diameter and length of bars, hardware, etc.) be identical to the CBR1100XX? Otherwise, find the best way to remove that bend. * EDIT * [notes to myself] Stock right side handlebar (Part No. 53100-MAT-D00, HANDLEBAR, R., $144.98) Heated grips made by Hot Grips (http://www.hotgrips.com/). Style already on bike. Listed kit for CBR1100XX is Model 525-875 for 7/8" Handlebars. 5.25" long grips, 1/2" too long for CBR1100XX (based on what's on bike). Model 475-875 for 7/8" Handlebars is 4.75" long and should be a proper fit. $122.95 for either one. Stock grips for '99 CBR1100XX: Part No. 53165-MY9-890, GRIP, R. HANDLE, $14.53 Part No. 53166-MY9-890, GRIP, L. HANDLE, $14.53

I don't even get that far. Tension is so tight that just having the device in place locks the throttle. The printed directions from jaws shows that I have to trim the tab part until the smaller one goes between the two throttle cables. Then, if needed, sand off a bit of plastic (thinning the part) until it goes on smoothly.

Okay, double checked that pic. With the flange thingy on the Vista placed under/behind the second cable, it looks just like that and goes on, and you're right...that metal thingy is a tool (although I don't get why on the other thread people said to bolt something into the drain hole of the switch assembly and make a new hole. Still, the Vista Cruise is so tight that just sitting there it binds the throttle from turning. Too thick. The only way I see it mounting is up against the switch housing and before that little ring on the throttle sleeve where your hand grip is supposed to stop at. What am I doing wrong? I found these pages and hope they have the answers I need. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...hl=Vista+cruise http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...hl=Vista+cruise http://www.jaws-motorcycles.co.uk/cruse/cruise.htm

1. Is the lion share of your damage plastics? 2. If you can't find good replacement parts for the red XX, Bob at Empire GP (Google it) can repair and paint plastics for a fraction of replacing them.

In that case I really don't know how this is supposed to go on. That metal thing is supposed to be a screwdriver? The blade is way too narrow.

Yeah, I saw that one, really doesn't help me. I think I found a way to put it on. The metal thingy included does not have anything telling me which way it mounts under the switch assembly. I got the bit about screwing it into an existing hole, but nothing tells you in what orientation it goes. I think I figured it out, but I can't really test it because I broke the metal thingy and need to get another one. In any case, it fits so tight that it won't let the throttle move even when it's all the way out. That means I have to make it thinner so it will fit right. I'm contacting the manufacturer for new metal thingy.

I'm having a devil of a time installing this thing. I have a part I can't visualize how it goes on and I found a thread describing one thing, but no pics of the finished result. Anyone have pics of the installed Vista Cruise as sold by John's Bike Bits?

Already have a Dremmel. Easier to cut off old chains than to use a big ass grinder. So, I can figure on making adjustments to pedals if I install the kit. Now to figure out if the improvement in posture is enough to warrant doing it. I'm 5' 10", but I feel rides more in the knees of late.

I'm wondering how much the peg lowering brackets affect ride comfort. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...wering+brackets I'm also interested in knowing (from those who've done it), how it affect access of the shifter and rear brake and if any other adjustments are needed. It's only a 3/4" difference, but some make it sound like it's a major improvement.

I need to spend $450 like I need another hole in my head. Those would look so much nicer than my Givis. Of course, then I'd need a new mount for my top case. *sigh*

To be fair, that bike isn't quite as ugly as you make it sound. Someone with some plastic painting skill could make it look real nice. Metal rash can be fixed nicely with JB Weld.

It took me a couple days to realize you were commenting about Leo barking in the background...damn dog. I forgot that was in the recording too. :icon_doh:

Done and done. Hopefully it'll get here before Saturday so I can put it in. He sells the double-green dot one (MAT-325). Mine is the MAT-315, but it appears the 325 supersedes my part number.

Mine has one green dot. Do I need the old version or with either do the job? Where's the best place to order one? If it doesn't fix the problem, I'll slate a valve check for the winter maintenance cycle.

CCT, are you talking about the cam chain tensioner that tends to wear out or something else? I can check the exhaust header nuts next winter when I break things down for maintenance, although it's my personal experience those never work loose unless you've fiddled with the exhaust. How big a job is it to check the valve clearances? I'm sure I'd have to take off the airbox (just as I would to replace the spark plugs...which might be due for a replacement this winter as a preventative measure).

Lately, my motor has sounded a little "pingy." I feel something's off, but can't really point to anything consistent. Certainly, once the bike warms up it's not that noticeable, but I can feel this rhythmic "ping" in the running of the motor. Attached is a zipped WMV file of my bike starting up. About a minute in I move the recorder from the right side of the bike to just in front of the radiator. You'll know I'm moving the recorder by the change. Any ideas if something sounds off? Bike is just under 70K. motor.zip

:hail: