Zero Knievel
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Posts posted by Zero Knievel
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The driveway has developed a crack that runs across it. It’s narrow, but I don’t know which is a better option…fix it myself (and which product is best) or hire a driveway guy to treat the whole driveway and parking area (1/10 mile). The driveway and parking area cost enough to install that letting it deteriorate too much is not acceptable, and I figure if I have a crew come up to fix the crack, they might as well inspect, treat and repair anything else when they come out. The rest of the drive and parking area are in good shape, but I don’t know how frequently asphalt should be treated or sealed to protect its integrity.
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I see what you did there. Honestly, the issue is that the aftermarket wires never perfectly lined up with the OEM…so it was extra important to replace only one at a time and carefully match the replacement to the original. Several wires were similar, but not identical, in length, and removing multiple wires was inviting complication, but the only way to be sure was a side-by-side comparison.
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We had an issue one time with the wires not staying seated properly. You’d think this wouldn’t be an issue, but wire sets seem to be only as long as they think is needed, so you can’t have any slack. Even with my B3000, getting the replacement wires to fit took several tries because if you didn’t lay the correct wire in the correct channel, those extra fractions of an inch would cause trouble by the time you wanted to plug in the other end.
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1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:
None will, but almost all will last way longer than 30k. A properly maintained quality U-joint operating at a low angle can go a million miles.
If you've seen the driveshaft, the u-joints are quite small. They may be as large as the swingarm can accommodate, but I'm surprised they aren't beefier than currently designed.
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1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:
BMW, the ultimate driving machine.....only 30k at a time.
I wonder if they use shitty materials or just didn't do the math on the angles and that's what makes them wear out.
Maybe they anticipate owners "trading up" every few years and didn't engineer the shaft joints to last indefinitely. It could be they would need to go larger, but then they have to completely redesign the swingarm to handle its size through the range of motion.
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18 hours ago, The Krypt Keeper said:
Who pays 180 for a rear and 84 for a front sprocket?
Did they use chain lube when you purchased them?
Honda OEM. I was never happy with the quality of aftermarket brands.-
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10 hours ago, tomek said:
Well, then they should. Idea of replacing driveshaft at 30 k miles in 2024 is, frankly, ridiculous. And, oops, with taxes 800 bucks not including labour. Probably another 3-400 bucks. Fuck that shit. Every 30 k miles.
Only those high on BMW Cool Aid would defend retarded design like that. Like Zero.
For the rest of us- we prefer motorcycles design by engineers who have a clue.
Well, ignoring your utterly childish response, since it’s the u-joints that fail, you are correct that they could be better engineered, and indeed it was complaints to government agencies in several countries that put pressure on BMW to add the shaft to the maintenance schedule and offer a free replacement (needed or not) at 36K at no charge.I know vehicles that have never had u-joint issues. I know some u-joints require(d) regular lube to ensure durability.
Rear Sprocket - $180
Front Sprocket - $84
Chain DID - $120 (varies by seller)
20-30K if well-maintained
So, $380-$400 every time you replace a worn chain on the XX.
Replacement shafts can be had cheaper than direct from BMW. I suspect the cost of free replacement will push BMW to either make them more serviceable or improve their longevity. As far as general inspection and installation, if you wrench your own bike, replacement is easy-peasy and doesn’t need a technician’s tools or skill to do. To “test” BMW does have a computer gizmo that detects vibration in the shaft, and if it exceeds tolerance, or you’re close enough or over the free replacement limit, they just go ahead and replace it under warranty.Keep in mind the value of NOT having to clean and lube your chain every 300 miles or the cost to buying and installing an automated chain oiler.
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6 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said:
Never had to do that on the Blackbird. 😉
No…just sprocket and chains. To be fair, I don’t think anyone can presume the drive linkage is zero maintenance, but if a driveshaft needs replacing or proactive maintenance, the owner should know about it as catastrophic failure is going to do a lot of damage. At least with a chain, it is easy to inspect. I think belt drive is probably the best for low maintenance. Yeah, they wear out, but just have a replacement handy on long trips, and it’s a field repair. Shaft failure is very bad. Chain failure…well, it depends on how it fails how bad it will be to fix.-
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13 minutes ago, tomek said:
Superior German Engineering.
Never heard of driveshaft being replacement item. Lol.
Replacement of the driveshaft every 36,000 miles (60,000 km) (Driveshaft mileage not vehicle milage).
The issue is that the universal joints ARE NOT serviceable. That's the part that inevitably will fail. They could engineer them to be a 100,000 mile item, or find a way to make them serviceable and still fit.... Thing is, this is nothing new. The driveshaft is a component that BMW owners accept will eventually fail and needs to be watched.
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Nothing new. Got my letter today with a new maintenance schedule. A big issue is people need to check them out every couple of years…add lube if needed…see if it is sticking or binding. Not rushing in to get the free replacement. I’ve got time.
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Garage
in The Garage
4 hours ago, superhawk996 said:Didn't notice the sunken lift?!?!? Are you fuckers fucking blind?....just like me? 😂
That is damn sweet. @OMG How did you do that?
To be fair, you have to follow the floor line. At first glance I missed it too.
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Garage
in The Garage
Nicer than my kitchen.
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49 minutes ago, rockmeupto125 said:
Yes, I know you can't run romex underground because you'll die and the town will burn and the babies will die and the earth will pivot off axis and we'll die and the the earth will plunge into the sun and create a supernova and cause other alien civilizations in other galaxies to die and I don't care.
At the rate things are going, all of that will happen regardless of what you choose to do.
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I wouldn’t want to dig post holes with a post hole digger.
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23 minutes ago, XXitanium said:
UPS
...this is going to be fun...
For 240V circuits? Considering they don't "plug in."
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1 hour ago, XXitanium said:
LMGTFY
"potentially damaging sensitive equipment like computers, refrigerators, and air conditioners. Commercial buildings may experience disruptions in operations, as critical systems, machinery, and computer networks may be adversely affected. Extended brownouts can destroy electrical components and cause hardware failure."
https://www.elliottelectric.com/StaticPages/ElectricalReferences/Guides/brownouts.aspx
Yeah…this. I’d have to ask the HVAC person, but I don't believe there are any internal components to the AC to protect the circuit boards from power spikes or “dirty power” (e.g., brown outs). Hell, newer PCs have BIOS options to shut off and stay off if power is interrupted. You’d think a similar feature would exist for appliances utilizing computer controls. Of course, lots of manufacturers want you to replace items…not keep them running for 20-30 years. We lost the main board twice and the control module for the fan motor once so far. Meantime, we have the refrigerator and deep freezer we owned since we lived in Florida (over 33 years) with no issues. No fancy electronics.Frankly, even our HVAC people sympathize. Many of their customers complain at how fragile newer AC units are because of the computer garbage compared to old analog systems that could last 30 years or more with proper maintenance.
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Yes...I remember that from long ago. Had a mold patch outside my bedroom window messing with my allergies.
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20 hours ago, DaveK said:
Told you the one you were buying was all wrong and to keep looking.
I can do both, you know. That’s the point for redundancy. -
On 11/14/2024 at 5:06 PM, XXitanium said:
Do the whole house suppression first.
See if that stops the problem. We lost 5 electrical devices in like the first year or two here. ...well, actually two were able to be repaired... still.
There have been no obvious losses since, in over twenty years.
And this is why I hate search engines.Had the thought to specifically ask about surge suppression for HVAC. Got this….
Never showed up when researching 240V surge suppression, but I figured someone had to make a device for AC units. Had to use the exact words to get the results I needed.
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3 hours ago, SwampNut said:
I currently know one person on the whole planet who has this problem. Why do you think this is something only you experience?
Have you made claims against the electric company? I actually had something covered once at a place with a power problem.
Two words. General Immunity. You can’t sue utility companies for poor quality. -
The progress, or lack thereof, so far….
Finally have someone coming out to look at the situation. I think I know what I want to go with for the whole house.
However, circuit-level protection is more problematic. While some companies do make breakers with incorporated surge suppression, they are in only 2 or 3 amperage ratings…which doesn’t meet my needs. If a circuit has a 60A breaker, I presume it’s for a good reason. More so, from what I can tell, these special breakers require a panel from the same manufacturer (or so the literature claims)…just as my existing panel offers better short-circuit protection only if you use their brand of circuit breakers.
So, as far as redundancy, I may be SOL. I’ve not found any in-line or outlet-level 240V suppression options.
I don’t know if an electrician or HVAC person would be the right person to consult, but I really want redundant protection for the AC because that fucking control board (3 times replaced so far) is damn expensive.
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This one is very versatile and comes in handy when dealing with the zombie apocalypse.
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4 hours ago, SierraKLR said:
Surge supression devices are rated in kA, not AIC. Addressing Surge per breaker is non effective given typical home wiring. Use a whole house device or address at the load/plug level.
AIC rating is for electrical equipment based on the fault current available on that circuit.
The breakers in your panel are 10,000 AIC rated, which is typical for a residential service. 10,000 AIC is the current minimum rating at 120/240V of all the major manufactures for Loadcenters. (Eaton, Siemens, Schneider Electric & GE/ABB
You must provide equipment to or above the AIC rating. Calxx is wrong, exceeding the AIC rating of your service is not an issue, but adds no value. Providing equipment rated below your AIC requirement is not allowed.
I do this for a living and have for 35 years (Schneider Electric = Square D Company).
Hire someone that knows what they are doing as you do not.This is why I'm asking here. The electricians in my area either don't install whole house/circuit surge suppression devices or have a lack of experience doing so. I was willing to hire an electrician, but I want one who can recommend the products that meet my need. I don't want to pay a guy to come out only to demonstrate that he has no idea what he's doing in this situation. Installation of these devices is something you can DIY with basic electrical knowledge. Knowing which items are best for your application is where you need someone knowledgeable.
The reason for surge suppression on the breaker is because they don't make plug-in 240v units. The breaker-level application is for redundancy.
Repair asphalt crack.
in Handyman
Posted
No…unless there’s a recommended crack filler that works in these temps that would prevent further damage until it’s done properly.