slowrideCX

If it smells burnt then it probably is cooked. 1.4-1.5v is not even close to good!!! Should be as stated 35-50 VAC that is AC voltage NOT DC!!!! the R/R converts it to 12VDC

The modular connector probably has more contact area than those round bullet style push-together connectors, if that's what you're talking about. The better the connection, the less heat, the less chance of failure, etc. That's why straight solder connection are the best, if you have the capability to do so. I agree, and if the two parts come with matching connectors, I'd probably use them (didn't think of that earlier). But if they don't, I don't think I want to straight solder again....no easy way to disconnect and reconnect for testing without a solder gun in my tool bag. Any thought on using the existing R/R? Would a failing stator damage the R/R? I'm getting one to be safe, but I don't know whether to save the new one for later, change it and save the current one as a replacement or just put on the new one and chuck the current one. I don't see much of anything for testing for damage to an R/R other than seeing if it lets the bike charge properly. However, just as the stator tested 100% perfectly and then failed without any warning while on a long trip, the same could be so with an R/R, right? FWIW how many times do you plan to test your R/R ans stator? with an inline volt meter there is no need to test anything unless you have a problem. Solder the damn wires and be done with them. When my stator went 4 yrs ago and 20K miles ago I rode home from WV like that and I am currently using the same R/R with no issues. Fully loaded I put out 14.2 volts at just over idle. As Joe said the better the connection the less heat produced the less chances of failure in the future. Those push together connectors tend to corrode and generate heat.. Heat is very bad!!!

I say test the stator for AC voltage output should be between 35-50 vac across any of the 3 legs at 5k . Don't waste ur money on a charger unless u really wanna buy one. Do as Rich said. Worst case pull the light fuses and anything not needed to run and ride that Bitch home!!!! I road almost 400 miles home from wv in 08 with the stator producing only about 12v for the entire ride. Grant it my bike is carbed but if you can get it home do it. Or buy the tools and overnight the part and change it at the meet. Your looking at maybe an hour of work.

Maybe interested in this as well if it works. :icon_think:

Oh yeah that's right....Duh..... How silly of me. :icon_wall: I almost mistaken you for Dave the way you keep changing bikes these days..... I will try harder to keep up.

I thought you were keeping this one and pimping it out with a turbo???

The temp is not so much an issue on a carbed bike with a manual choke/enrichener but on the FI bikes the computer controls the mixture according to air temp motor temp oxygen level in the exhaust yadda yadda too many variables to list. Bottom line is if the motor is not running about 180-190 the computer will think it is still trying to warm the engine and keep richening the mixture. Could be as mentioned before temp sensor or thermostat. Good luck.

On the FI bikes if you are not running up to temp the computer is trying to richen the mixture as it would do in the winter for a cold start. If it runs like that all the time you will have the low miles you are having..

Wow would be cool for about .05 seconds but to be stuck with it Yeah NO!!!! :icon_wall: JUST WOW!!!!! N WHY????

All you need to do is start it and rev it to about 4k that should tell you all you need to know. It sounded a lot better on the WVXXT trip! Good to hear.

I will look again but I think the linkage will hit the frame. Like I said I will look closer at it. thasnks Hank thank you and I will get those parts you need out in the morning.

Anyone have one they are willing to sell? I am going to put it on my F4 to make it GP shift. I wanna try it but don't want to spend $250 just to try it. Hobi gave me the idea . Thanks buddy...

All you need to do is start it and rev it to about 4k that should tell you all you need to know.

Sounds to me like the stator is toast. Easy fix. Get the part through Hobi n change. Check the connection from the start relay also the R/R feeds power back to the system through that connector. It is known to start cooking and not charge. Good luck.

Steve just remove the OLD cct no worries. Whatever you do don't remove the little key from the new one till it is bolted securely into place!!!!!! If you need to wind it in just use a small straight screw driver.

Funny you say that cause Joe posted up mins after this tread was posted that he would try it but no response.... Ironic dontcha think... :icon_think:

Damn you guys suck I was gonna offer him $100 as is for the bike..... Jk cct is an easy fix. Glad u got rid of the marbles.....

Thanks man, but hold the playing of TAPS. This is a sideways move and will result in a pretty neat turbo Blackbird as my ride. I'm really longing for a project and I as I said, I need to do some hands on development of our kits.... I look at it as the perfect storm in a good way, not bad....everything seemed to fall in place. But thanks for your thoughts..... When we going riding? We will have to work on something soon. Erica and I are spending a weekend away in Maryland this weekend . But I would like to get together soon. Let's see what weekends work and see if we can throw something together. I have a couple of 5k runs scheduled that are coming up. Yes you heard me right I am running now . I am up to 4 miles a day 2-3x a week. I can't wait to see what kind of a monster you build.

Hank I wish you all the luck in the world with your new venture. However I am saddened by hear of you selling.g the Bird. However I know you will never be without a bike so you will be out on 2 wheels in no time. Good luck buddy.

Thanks for all the help my battery less than a year old went bad bought a better gel cell battery fires like a champ now. I found that the cheaper batteries never seem to last . You made the right choice on the AGM battery. I prefer Yuasa they seem to last for years. I got 5 yrs out of my last one and going on season #2 with this one and no issues. Ride on Brother enjoy!!!!

I have had my HID kit for high and low beam installed for 4yrs now and I do a shit load of night riding on my way home from work and into work depending on my shift. They work leaps and bounds better than the halogen bulbs I have put 20+ thousand miles on my bike with these bulbs in and only had to change them once. They are cheap and if they blow every year I don't care I bought replacement bulbs a pack of 2 for $15 off eBay and they work just fine!!!! The kit new cost me $80 and was probably the best upgrade I did to my bike. I can ride at night with a lite smoked visor and see better then with a clear and stock bulbs. Let there Be Light !!!!! Good move Dave Congrats on the new farkle enjoy!!!!

Not necessarily... 1 leg of Stefan's stator crapped out in WV and he rode the bike home with only 2 legs working, as long as he kept the RPM's above 4000. I'm pretty sure max charge rate with 2 legs was 12.6 volts so it was very edgy. Ruhi followed him to be sure he made it and Pete followed me...I had a wire to the red connector at the starter relay melt and had to run a jumper wire which got me home too. There are times when the components are good but the connectors are bad and its best to check everything thoroughly. y I am going to guess there is corrosion on the connectors that is causing the voltage drop when under heavy loads. A short would mee than likely blow a fuse. When my stator went bad as Hank said all I did was pulled the head light fuse and anything not needed to run and made it home. 350 miles...

Tell him to check the connector coming off the start relay. The R/R feeds power back to the battery through that connector . I have seen corrosion cause that connector to burn and not charge the battery. The voltage should never drop to 10.4 when the bike is running. Anytime the voltage drops below 12.5 volts you are not charging the battery. You really don't want to see the running voltage to drop below 13-13.5 optimal voltage is around 14.2-14.5.

I have a 97 with 60+k on the clock. At about 50k the stator went on my way home from WV. I pulled the light fuses and rode it home 350miles. As far as power and smoothness a few minor mods and my bike is as smooth as glass and will pull the front up in 3rd gear if I let it. A few mods to the suspension and she handles like my 600 .... Well almost. As for the electrical issues mentioned go over all the connections and add a little dielectric grease to each and your golden. The volt meter is a huge + saved my ass. Watch your wheel bearings at about 35-40k miles Other then that just general maintenance is all they need. Oh the cct if you hear stones in a can sound change it or rewind the spring. Good luck

That is a sexy bike!!!!