prs

my vista cruise works super. love it. but what a hassle installing. took about an hour with tinkering. i drilled a hole and installed a screw in the plastic to make it solid. did the same for my daughters 600zzr, and she loves it. my 12r buddy saw it and did the same.

in bought a universal scotts and made my own mounting. just drilled holes into the frame, and drilled two holes into upper tree. had to mount it upside down, but many people do.it's not pretty here, because i just wanted to get it on. it'll be prettier this winter.

it appears i have solved the ignition and fueling problems. the bike pulls pretty strong, power wheelies in second at 8k, doesn't miss, and revs to redline. this is with 18\45 gearing. i don't know how i'm getting 14lbs boost with a 9lb spring, but that is what i get. i'm gonna get it to about 11-12 before the dyno. i guess the intercooler and timing retard and water injection are doing their part, or this thing would be in pieces right now. i'm going to the dyno saturday to find out if all is ok, and get it mapped. it appears to really like high fuel pressure; something about 80psi at full boost, and a map number somewhere about +27. i also think i have either a a/f meter or 02 sensor problem. either bad 02 sensor or miscalibrated a/f meter. i can give the motor enough fuel to lay it down at 8k, but the meter still only reads 12.7. i will compare it with the dyno a/f meter and see. im also gonna remove the air inlet plumbing and make a pull after the bike is mapped, and see if the intake or intercooler is a restriction, and how much. thanx again for all your helps, and i will post the results, along with the map.

installing an 02 sensor is easy. just takes time. you will install it at the collector as close to the 4 exhaust pipes as possible. you will have to remove the header to do it. you can either have a bung welded to the collector and just screw the sensor in, or you can drill a hole in the collector just big enought to screw the sensor in, and then put a nut on it on the inside of the collector. i've done both. then mount your 02 meter some where in your cockpit where u can watch it. the meter requires battery voltage(tiny wire), and a ground wire. the 02 sensor uses one wire to the meter (at least mine does) the problem u will now have though is u need to know the throttle position and rpm to change the pc3 cells. i installed a power commander lcd to get the throttle position information. it is quite small, plugs into your pc3 without any additional wires, and is easy to use. got mine for 250.00. now when you ride, you can look at your a/f meter, notice your rpm and throttle position, remember if it is rich or lean, and change it when u get home. this will take much time and tinkering.

i haven't measured the pressure drop yet, because i have not seen 200hp yet. when i get the bike to run rich enough,and still don't have power, then i will suspect the intercooler and relocate the pressure line before the intercooler and compare the diff. yes, i fab'd it. i didn't weld it though. got a really good local guy. i spent many hours locating and making it, so i hope it doesn't restrict. but i enjoy doing this kind of stuff anyway, so it doesn't really matter if i have to remove it.

so last night i redid my fuel rail. drilled it out 1/16 bigger. got rid of the banjo fittings, and installed your old style 90 degree brass i had laying around,(which i also drilled out a little bigger). tonight i will give it a try. thanx here's a pic of the intercooler, with 2" inlet and outlet. even though the bottom two rows look blocked, they actually have over 1/2" on the inside for flow. i also have installed dual 5" fans on the cooler that come on at boost.

here's another pic of the air intake side. it ducts up under the headlight. no crud in the filter, and i can lean the bike like normal. i posted a pic of the intercooler side on the pub last night.

now that is new about the duty cycle cells. i thought that the cells were increasing duty cycle 1% for every 1% increase. now i have more room to work with and will immediately try a big jump in duty cycle increase to see if a/f lowers, or injector lockup. i have always wanted to buy the s2000, and appears i might have to. i had the injectors cleaned and flowed, but only to see if they were within 2% of each other, and they were, but i don't know their actual volume, though i am assuming about 30lbs. 310cc. how about the banjo fittings on the fuel line? the hole is pretty small. ever been an issue? here's a pic of my cockpit. the fuel guage is temporary till this is sorted out. the a/f fuel is reading rich at idle because it scrolls up and down, and thats where it was when i took the pic. thanx again guys.

and yes, the stock fpr is removed. what kind of pc3 numbers at wot would u estimate? my calculations show that the stock bike uses a duty cycle of about 60%, which only leaves 20% more at stock fuel pressure, so higher fuel pressure is the only way to get it. i am running off a stock map that i have been adjusting; should i be using a zero map, and going from there?

very nice. thanx. the intercooler is 2"x7" x12", and should be good for easy 200hp. 3x6x9" are advertised for over 250hp. but it is possible it is too small, and i have thought of it; only problem is im too lean, and not enough air equates to too rich. thanx, for the info on pics. i will post some.

ok, i see i got some replys. thanx mucho guys. here's what i got. hahn header(pos) evo111gt 7cm turbo,16g intercooler water injection 500cfm aircleaner behind the headlight pc3usb pc2 for ignition retard lcd for throttle position info so i can map in conjunction with my a/f meter walbro gss341 hp fuel pump, good to over 100psi and 300 horse, at said pressure 3" square aluminum intake fuel pressure guage boost guage msd knock meter begi fpr. i replaced the aeromotive 1:1 i had on it. fuel pressure is 50 at idle no hose attached. drops to 38 attached at idle, and is about 50 at cruise. bike is geared 18front my a/f meter reads about 12.7 at 10psi boost, and i want it about 12.0,(or whatever you might suggest), this is with pc3 mapped +25% at wot, and 80 psi fuel pressure. progressive retard starting at 6000rpm, with 5% retard at 8000rpm. the knock meter reads zero. the bike does not make the power it should. it power wheelies in second, but not third. i solved the missing problem by regapping to .018, from .030 the dynatek coils i bought were just adding to the missing problem, so i am returning them for some 2.2 ohm units. the oversized flapper on this turbo opens about 10-11 psi boost. what i need to know, to get a baseline, is what others have set their fuel pressure at, and what the map looks like at wot. i tried the 1:1 aeromotive unit, and could not get the a/f below 12.7 the busa site said to dump it and get the begi, but they did not say what pressure to run, so i did, but it is still 12.7 i will try turning the pressure down to 60 and see if it goes lean, or gets better, indicating injector lockup. i have 5/16 braided fuel line from the tank, to the high volume fuel filter, to the rail, from the rail to the begi, with 1/4 back to the tank. the begi unit is mounted in front of the battery frame, about 16" from the fuel rail. there is no factory fpr. i ran the calculations for these injectors and pulse width requirements, and your information appears correct about pressure requirements for about 220hp. my problem is i cant get the a/f low enough yet. thanx again, and i would be glad to post pics of everything, but i don't know how to on this site. pat

went for a ride last weekend with some 200 bikes around mt rainer, and gave the bike a shakedown. got the missing problem fixed apparently; regapped plugs to .018 and factory coils and it worked. the dyna coils didn't work. sending em back for diff. ones. although i can run away from my friends 05 busa with pc3 and aftermarket hmf pipes and his one tooth lower front sprocket, i cannot run from my other friends 12r that just dyno'd 175 last week. i'm down on power somewhere, even at 10lbs boost. i'm gonna change the fuel pump to a gss341 today, for more pressure. my holley walbro is only good for 80 psi.

haven't done anything with the map sensor yet. sounds like i will be copying yours. what check valve did u use? how can i post pics on this site?

interesting. 3 ohm worked for u. won't work for me. i'm gonna try the 2.0 ohm. I'll bet they measure over 2.0 ohm since the 3.0's measured 3.8. as far as resister plugs, the stock iridiums measure 5k ohm. stock wires also measured 5k ohm. i'm gonna run msd 8.0's that measure 50ohm per foot if possible.

sorry so long to reply, and i really appreciate all the suggestions. ok, yes i do have a fuel pressure gauge plumbed into the fuel rail. 50psi without the hose attached(after throttle bodies), which goes to about 35 at idle attached. i have to limit the pressure to 80psi at boost, because it is a holley unit(walbro), and at 90psi it flows nothing. I have a hp walbro 341gss unit coming thursday, which is good to over 100psi. i am trying to run about 10psi boost with intercooler and water injection. begi unit is their turbo and supercharger unit. forgot the number, but it allows for base setting, and rate of gain. yes, i am using the restrictor. i found out tonight that the dyna dc1-1 coils i put on are a problem. severe missing. honda specs on the primary coil side are 2.4-2.8ohms. dyna only has 2.0 and 3.0, and their tech suggested the 3.0. when i measured the resistance on their coils, they were 3.8; a full 1 ohm over honda spec. I put the factory coils back on and it stopped missing. don't know yet if it will take boost since it is too late, but i will tomarrow. i'll call them thursday about their coils. i turned off the water(rubbing alchohol) to see if that was causing the problem. not. 16g evo 111 gt turbo, 7cm housing with oversized internal gate. i get 10psi by 6k and it holds steady. a/f meter reads in the 12's currently, but i'm looking for about 12 flat or even high 11's. my factory coils secondary side only read 22k, with the honda specs calling for minumum of 32k. that is why i bought the dyna coils, thinking that might be the problem. all it did was generate a new problem. i will let u know if the plug regapping to .018 solved any problems in next couple of days. at least it is ridable now, even if it won't take much boost. there are over 200 of us going riding this saturday. seattle to yakima and back, by way of loop around Mt. Rainer. pnwriders. xx4me, i got your message, and i will soon.thanx, thanx,pat

ok, haven't been here for awhile. built my own turbo for my 02bird. hahn header. (lasted less than 3k miles and cracked serious). going stainless this winter. problem is, never has run well. i've got pc3usb, and pc11 for tiiming. begi regulator. dynotec coils. new plugs at .030. evo111 gt turbo. 2.5" downpipe into dual 2" scoropions. intercooler under the right mirror fairing with fans. water injection. cooling mist brand. 2.5" square aluminum intake. a/f meter. msd knock sensor. walbro pump, with a walbro hp coming this week. the stock walbro quits pumping past 80psi. injectors flowed and within 2% of each other. here's the problem. it won't take boost past 6k. i had it on a dyno last month (a guy in spokane has one for 100 bucks a day), and at 6psi it would only rev to 8k and misfire. took it home and replaced the regulator (was an aeromotive unit) with begi. redid the air intake system. redid the fuel lines and checked the pump. replaced the coils with dynotec units and replaced the plugs. now it only revs to 6k!!! no matter what i do with the fuel pressure or mapping, it misfires at 6k and wot. it runs fine at part throttle, but refuses any wot. any ideas? when i make the intake manifold, i copied the stock unit, which has small holes for the trottle body breathers. is this a possible problem? should the turbo manifold only have the four holes for the throttle bodies instead? the busa site suggests plug gap of .018-.020" is this possibly the problem? thanx for any help. when i get it running, i will post pics and dyno chart.

i have them on my turbo bike. love em. when i go by other bikes wide open, the comment is they are fairly quiet. they don't bother me at all when i ride.

well i've got about 150 hours into mine now. started with a hahn header. not imressed with the header, but i didn't want to make one. mitsubishi td05 evo 111 gt turbo. msd fuel pump added and comes on under boost. aeromotive fpr. stock injectors. 2.5 inch downpipe into dual scorpion pipes. homemade intake, out of 2 by 3 inch alum. tubing. two pieces welded togeather makes twice the volume. plugged the end of the fuel rail, drilled new hole in middle of fuel rail for remote fpr. plumbing from turbo to intake takes forever. gotta put an intercooler on to do it right. that's next. a must have is an air/fuel meter. trying to find the correct pc2 to add to my pc3 to control ignition still. drilled hole through left side fairing for air cleaner. currently running 6 psi and avgas 100 octane lowlead mixed with 92 unleaded so i don't blow it up. running rich about 12.5 stock gearing. first gear is useless above 6k. don't think it's making 200 hp at the wheel yet. but it does pull pretty hard. i plan on doing a complete story with pics when i'm happy with the power. be carefull; your dealing with 11:1 compression. I played with buick gn's for years; 25 psi, acholol injection, 11 second pump gas cars. what i am learning is that motorcycle engines are not car engines. it seems the velocity of gasses is huge in a bike engine. what seems right isn't even close. good luck

i use the 113-410 on my o2xx. works fine. plugged right in and can do adjustments while it is running with my laptop. i have an issue though with going rich and staying rich untill i turn the bike off and on once, but only after i have run boost for a few seconds.

FYI, If you use Dynojets maps and load them with a Palm, you will get the FI codes back as the Palm software does not trim the maps. They trick is to load the map into the XX with the updated software, then download it back FROM the XX and save it. The newly saved map can be loaded with a Palm without problems. on my newly installed turbo with pc3 usb, i get the light after a boosted pull. sometimes it makes the bike so it won't take more than half throttle without missing, and it will run rich at all throttle levels. only fix i know is to turn the bike off and restart. don't know what causes it.

anybody know the fix for depressurizing the crankcase to facilitate oil drainback? unscrewed the oil cap when running and there is a ton of air movement. this is for my turbo bike.

It changes injection time (unit is m(illi)s) by altering the engine ECU signal (earth) to the injectors.PC3 itself doe not uses any units, it ads or subtracts some percentage of injection time. This is done according to throttle openinig (TPS potentiometer signal) and engine revs. You need a dynamometer and a gas analyzer to tune properly an engine. just so you know, there are downloadable maps for the bird from pwr cmmander site, but only for the few cans they have tested. i put a homemade 4-1 scorpion on my bike ( stock headers thermo coated in and out) witha single pipe from the dual scorpion setup. i also put an 02 sensor in the header and an air/fuel ration monitor on the steering head so i can see it in real time. the map for dual scorpions wasn't even close. the 4into 1 accelerates the gases much faster and it was way lean at low rpms. i finally have it close, but since i am turboing the bike next week, i'll have to start all over. i mount my laptop on my gastank and go riding while watching my a/f monitor and make adjustments as i go, in real time. my very own rolling dyno. it's the only way to get the throttle position sensor settings correct. and yes, it does get busy sometimes juggling all the imputs from traffic, road, a/f , sending maps and saving maps. sure is fun though. if i don't kill myself, i'll eventually get it all worked out.

Get a room with you and your rising rate fuel pumps............... super, guys. already got the aeromotive fpr, which is 1 to 1. nice info on the airbox, and although it looks like it can handle 5-6 lbs, it sounds like it cannot. oh well, such is life. nothing some square aluminum tubing can't fix. i really appreciate the info and concerns, so i will keep you informed as things progress. i'm running an 18 front sprocket now and like it. speedo is only off 2mph at 70 now. i figure that will tame the power surge down some, and might even go 1 or 2 less on the rear. and progress they will, because my 12r buddy spanked me too hard on our last ride. i told him he inspired me to turbo my bike sooner than expected, & now he's sweating it. also, after seeing the zx14 video do 9.17 with just a pipe and straps, i'm gettin it done just in time. i plan on popping a few zx14 ballons this summer. i sat on that thing at the seattle bike show, and i must say it fit nice. looks like a spiders face from the front though, with all those eyes. i liked everything about the bike except the front view. the 12r boys mostly hate it too, but they all want one. don't blame em either. it's geared talllll. 86 in first gear, and through the lights in 4th at 153. thanx,pat

hi: im new to this site. im doing a self install and build turbo for my 02bird. anybody know what the stock fuel pump can support. i understand the injectors are 335mm, which supports about 240hp at stock pressure. i've installed an 02 sensor and a/f meter from my old turbo buick gn experiments, so i know what the motor is kinda doing. i've also got usb3. i've been riding around with my laptop strapped to the top of my gas tank and doing realtime adjustments just to get the idea of how the p/c works. hahn header, td05 turbo, homemade scorpion single exhaust. i'm also going to try pressurinzing the stock airbox, with reinforcing if necessary. i've got a aeromotive fpr and i'll install a msd pump if my meter tells me i need it. just looking for 5-6 lbs boos for now. just so you know, i used to run 23 lbs boost in one of my buicks, with alchol injection and pump gas. that was fun. low 12's street tires and pump gas and 23 mpg. in comfort and style. thanx