lew69442
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Posts posted by lew69442
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I know that you need to make better connections when splicing wires in a dc application than in an ac setting.
I'm wondering if using the red butt splices that I have requires also using some conductor like dielectric grease? It seems that just using the splices and crushing each end isn't making a good connection.
Any ideas? I'm trying to get my tail lights straightened out for an inspection tomorrow AM.
Thanks,
M
Regardless of and A/C or DC application bad connections = resistance/resistance=heat & increased current draw.
Any good marine store will offer shrink type butt connectors but and investment in good ratcheting crimpers will go a long way.
Dielectric grease is OK to use but if you are using tinned wire & connectors its not really necassary.
If I recall all the BB OEM wire is simple copper strand (not tinned) so tinning the wire that you strip with solder is a good idea before inserting it into a connector.
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There are two industry standards in resitive type instrumentation the US standard is 180-10 ohm and the world is 230-33 ohm. Next more than likley the threads on a Jap bike are not going to be NPT, others are close BSP & etc but you need to pay attention to the proper thread pitch I know it is in the shop manual. Once you do find the appropiate plumbing stay away from brass (to soft for engine vibration) use black iron or even galvy and keep the fittings short to minimize fitigue. In CT you have Faria instrument company which is kinda the VW of the gauge world (low end) but for quality instruments for any application and they will custom build just about anything I use Hoyt in NH.Hoyt
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I think there were a few posts on the Wilbers blowing their oil seal a bit prematurely I think Warchild was one of them aside from that I have heard nothing but happy Wilbers owners....
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Has anyone had first time success with Race tech’s recommended valve stack configuration on the compression valving on the new G2R valves? I kinda got the feeling when I had to call them for the valve stack arrangement they had little feedback and it was just a rough baseline they are currently providing.
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My bird has been sitting up in Connecticut for a few months now, and I have not ridden it since the
end of January. The battery is original, on my 2000 bird and I'm wondering if it should be replaced.
What brand do you use?
Thanks!
In general bikes using the Yusa wet cell batteries with sound electrical systems get on average 6 to 8 years of life. You will not see that type of longevity out of a Wal-Mart battery. The only question regarding battery selection should be the OEM wet cell Yusa or moving into newer gel or dry battery technology to take advantage of zero maintenance increased cca and Ahrs count
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I've got a few scuffs, dings, scratches from the last 7 years of abuse on my 00. I'm thinking about a total repaint and doing a little custom work.
I'm thinking about anti-decal, nothing to indicate what it is and going with the same color (titanium) only throwing some ghost flames in a slightly tinted darker version of the same color. Anyone seen anything like this, sound cheesey? Goes without saying "use flex additive in the paint. Consider the corbine bags with paint scheme ideas.
Second question is, is it a bitch to get "all" the body work off the bike? Meaning, is the front upper a pain in the ass, that's the only piece I've never taken off.
Painting your bike this close to the start of the riding season may not be in your best intrest. What I have learned from over the years of restoring cars and bikes paint/body shops are (believe it or not ) even worse then general contractors with being on schedule. Also Color Rite gets a premium for their product and there is nothing premium about it at all. The color matches are close but not perfect and the durability is a bit off. I have been pleased with the Sikkens and the PPG product........
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The Vermont American's are the perfect beater set for everyday use and are great value but the set to have forever and hand down to your grandkids is the Thunderbit
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Looks nothing like my 2002 collector.......
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Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job....
Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low...
Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot...
Mike
All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new....
Battery is (3) months old, is a Yausa battery, and has been on the tender the month is was constantly icy here, and I just got back from TN, and had ridden to work like 5 times since I got back.
BTW, come to find out, the local cycle recycle place keeps the R1 R/R blank plugs in stock (after-market) and will put connectors in them, for a total of like $8 or so for a completely new R1 plug with pigtail...
Mike
Rule of thumb "never gage a battery by its age" plate seperation is a cruel cruel thing.......
Yeah, I know that, but it doesn't drop below 12V with the low and high beams on, and the brakes on, when the engine is off... I've lost a cell on batteries before, and this isn't it... You also don't get a cell back after it's gone, then lose it again, then lose it again, then get it back again... This is why I keep telling that Wadem guy to get his battery tested...
Mike
Mike, for me at the moment I would focus on three things. 1.) There is a sudden large demand & the V/R is working its nuts off to compensate. 2.) The V/R can't properly sense the battery and it’s lost. 3.) The insulation on the stator winding is breaking down from heat & or vibration. To determine where you stand on #1 it’s back to the amp meter on the battery in conjunction with a VM. To determine #2 check all the connections or install jumpers to remove connections from the equation (which I know you already did) To determine #3 you will have to have access to a mega ohm meter. Aside from that hopefully you have a buddy who has and XX that you can slut parts from as a test mule. Regardless keep us posted as I am sure this will be and education for all once you nail it..... Lew,
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Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job....
Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low...
Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot...
Mike
All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new....
Battery is (3) months old, is a Yausa battery, and has been on the tender the month is was constantly icy here, and I just got back from TN, and had ridden to work like 5 times since I got back.
BTW, come to find out, the local cycle recycle place keeps the R1 R/R blank plugs in stock (after-market) and will put connectors in them, for a total of like $8 or so for a completely new R1 plug with pigtail...
Mike
Rule of thumb "never gage a battery by its age" plate seperation is a cruel cruel thing.......
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Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job....
Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low...
Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot...
Mike
All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new....
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Well... fuck.
It happened again on the way home, except this time, here's what happened...
1. Voltage was up just fine at startup, possibly a little bit high, but only .1 to .2V higher than normal.
2. Started riding, and voltage was fine for the first ~1 mile
3. Voltage started to fluxuate when engine got warmed up, as I got close to the highway (1.5 miles)
4. Once I got onto the interstate, the voltage started fluxuating between 13 and 14V
5. After about 3/4 mile on the interstate, voltage was at 12.8 and I pulled off onto the next exit (knew traffic around Indy was stop and go, and was going to go the back way instead)
6. Came to a stop on the off-ramp and voltage started acting normal again
7. Shortly after I started going again, voltage crept down to 12.8
8. Over the next 20 miles, I tried the "drop to idle while moving" thing several times and no dice. It did stay up to 12.8 better if it was above 5krpm, but didn't get any higher when revved higher than that
9. Went to come to a stop at a light off the highway close to Travis's place, and when I was on the brakes with the turn signal on, coming to a stop, the voltage came back up as I was coming to a stop, again, about .1V higher than normal.
10. Fine the rest of the way to Travis's house (~1.25 miles)
11. R/R was too hot to keep hand on when I got there (never felt it before after running... how hot is normal?), but not hot enough to burn instantly.
12. Fired up and was fine for the remaining 20 miles home, although ~.1 to .2V higher than normal
13. Slightly hotter than before when I got home, but not so hot as to smell hot (burning dust and such).
Got the thing apart and found as follows:
1. all connectors(at R/R, and where stator connects to harness under tank) and wires were in VERY good shape, with no signs of overheating on the shielding. Connector terminals were VERY shiny and not corroded at all.
2. .3 ohms between all 3 of the stator wires, and all were insulated from ground
3. .1 ohms between connector + and - and battery + and -.
This all adds up to a bad R/R in the manual, but then again, the voltage was doing just fine the whole rest of the way home, so I'm sure it would read just fine right now...
Being that it's still making some voltage, and seems to be somewhat engine temperature and rpm related, it would seem that I was losing 1 of the 3 phases in the R/R... but then again... I dono...
I'm going to get into it farther, but I'm thinking about just replacing the stator with the higher output FI version, and replacing the R/R with an R1 unit and being done with it...
Any ideas?
Mike
Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job....
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-I'll start by saying that I've got a Datel DVM on top of my guage cluster, so I can always tell what my battery voltage is doing.
-The bike's got 40k on it
-I run heated gearin the winter, but not today.
-When I run heated gear, I turn it off when I am in stop and go traffic, or when I stop at lights. It is only run on the highway.
-The bike typically gets 40 miles per time I start it, mostly interstate. The fan only comes on once or twice a week when I get stuck in traffic. (so it's not like the R/R has led a very hard life)
-I run the HID low beam, and high is almost never on unless I'm out in the country on my way to the interstate. It's never on at a stop.
-Battery is an actual Yausa that I put in (3) months ago, and the month where we had the snow here, it was on a tender. I've gone to TN and back since then, though
OK, so I'm going to work this morning, and when I get to the interstate, and get on, the voltage is sitting at a steady 14.2 and I'm rolling to work. Stays like this for the first 15-20 miles or so of my trip to work, then I look down and the guage and it's running a steady 12.6 volts, and drops to 12.5 when I touch the brakes... fuck. I'm thinking "ok, I"ve got the HID light and there is no stopping until I get to work (but I'll have to sit in traffic if I turn around), so I'll just get it to work on the battery and have my wife drive the caprice with the trailer to work (already hooked up from dirt biking on Sunday), and come pick us up after work... no problem" and then on a lark, I let off the gas and pull the clutch in. When the engine gets back to idle, the voltage goes up, and stays "normal" (14.2-14.3) the rest of the way to work, and acts normal at the couple stop lights I have between the interstate and work.
Has anybody ever had this happen??
I thought about getting a spare R/R to keep in the trunk in case it goes out while I'm on a trip, but for the price of one spare Honda one, I can switch over to the R1 R/R and buy a spare R1 unit and still be money ahead of buying the single Honda unit...
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike
Start with checking all the V/R connections from point to point including all the battery and ground connections. If the V/R can't see the battery voltage due to a bad connection it will do this.....
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Newark onlineNewark
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LSL claims that their horizontal portion (where the logo is) keeps the bike from spinning in the event of a long slide as well as the delrin puck is a replaceable item. They are pretty good quality. Kneedraggers seamed to have the best pricing if I recall.....
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We seem to have this question come up regularly, but Hindle already makes a hi-mount setup for the XX.
Tjvulvula has the prototype mounted on his bike, and it looks sweet as hell, not to mention sounds better than the MIG, IMO.
Here's the link: Hindle Hi-Mount
Tjvulvula, was extremely kind enough to forward me all the info he had regarding this earlier this year and I do agree it is excellent fit and finish hands down. As I am preparing for my annual winter refit in a month or so I am trying to weigh all of my exhaust system options especially since my addition of Sw- Motech hard bag brackets. With the notion of this necessary evil (hard bags) put into the equation any info regarding twin can exhaust systems high or low mount will be greatly appreciated...Lew
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Dale Walker from Holeshot performance makes killer systems for Yamaha V-Maxes, FZ-1's and Suzuki Bandits. I contacted him about making a high mount system for the BlackBird and he said all he needed was for someone to loan him a bike for him to take all the measurements from. I started a thread a few weeks ago to see if anyone out his way would be willing to loan out their bikes and the last time I checked the thread a few were thinking about it.
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=39873
Any movement on this topic? As I am intrested in his product as well......
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I haven't been riding enough to keep the battery charged. Please recommend a multi use charger. I have a 2amp/10amp car charger, I just don't want to cook the cycle battery. Will a 2amp charger be to much if left on for about 2 hours. Is this to much amp charging for a Honda OEM Battery?
Is a trickle charger, the way to maintain your battery, and what brand and model of charger?
I'm not sure, but I would check more closely with the charger you're talking about. 2 amp hr/10 amp hr? Our batterys are 10amp hour batteries, so setting your charger for 2amp hour for 2 hours might not do too much. I'm not sure about this however.
And yes, a trickle charger is the way to go. Just "set it and forget it". Even harbor freight has a cheap one if you don't want to spring for the Battery Tender. However, I've never used it so this is not a recommendation.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=42292
A 10 amp or less QUALITY ELECTRONIC battery charger preferably of the three step type will work just fine. Battery Tender is a fine product but it seems the motorcycle community is caught up in the marketing it is the holy grail of bike battery chargers. Your battery should not be just going flat over the course of a few months if it is you have a problem......
I agree with you in theory. The clock should pull .02mA, and with the 10amp hour battery, it "should" be good for months. But you can do the math if you want.
However, I've never had such great luck with this practice. I believe the honda manual says to charge it ever 2 weeks so sulfer dosen't build up in the battery. I don't claim to understand the why's and how's of this, but I've killed a few batteries by letting it sit off a trickle charger for months and as a direct result, killed my stator too. Much more expensive and time consuming to change that, believe me!!
Jay
Residual sulfate is a result of charging and discharging most evident in a storage type battery. Being that we are talking about a starting type battery (with minimum ampacity) that on a proper functioning electrical system its lowest state of discharge is after cranking. With this in mind the sulfate build up issue at best should only be minimal and over time. Generally to dissipate sulfate build up charging at a slightly higher rate over "Bulk" charging for roughly 8hrs will take care of this it’s called "equalizing".
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I haven't been riding enough to keep the battery charged. Please recommend a multi use charger. I have a 2amp/10amp car charger, I just don't want to cook the cycle battery. Will a 2amp charger be to much if left on for about 2 hours. Is this to much amp charging for a Honda OEM Battery?
Is a trickle charger, the way to maintain your battery, and what brand and model of charger?
A 10 amp or less QUALITY ELECTRONIC battery charger preferably of the three step type will work just fine. Battery Tender is a fine product but it seems the motorcycle community is caught up in the marketing it is the holy grail of bike battery chargers. Your battery should not be just going flat over the course of a few months if it is you have a problem......
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To avoid confusion when diagnosing problems with the Blackbird charging system it is important to understand how the charging system really works.
You will not hurt the alternator by operating it at high output because of a flat battery. It always works at max output and what does not go to the battery or other accessories is shorted to earth by the regulator and is sunk as heat.
You will hurt the alternator by running with a battery with a high resistance or open circuit.
There seems to be a lack of understanding on how the system works I am happy to write an article on it and post it if people want to know.
There are more cases of the alternator damaging the battery than the other way around.
JohnS
What the???? :icon_wall: "You will not hurt the alternator by operating it at high output because of a flat battery. It always works at max output and what does not go to the battery or other accessories is shorted to earth by the regulator and is sunk as heat." :icon_wall: John you have apparently confused a V/R with a stick welder......
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A few different people have sccessfully swapped front ends. I've seen CBR1000RR forks, RC51 forks and I personally have Hayabusa forks on mine.
I believe the CBR1000RR fork legs are quite a bit shorter and would required a dropped upper triple clamp. I honestly never dug into the RC51 forks.
The Busa forks are almost the exact length as the XX forks and are designed to carry a bike with almost the same weight as the Bird. The triples require special bearings and new steering stops must be fabricated.
Damn fine job on your ride man! Need a winter project??
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Dunlop D 208 rears consistently around 3K (spent tire) and the fronts again consistently around 3K as well but only due to scalloping. Have since moved to Pilot powers front and back and as a result to the way they adhere to the road I don’t even care about the mileage that I obtain from them as they work so well at any temperature on just about any road condition.
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I think I have an RR gone on the XX (98) and ended up w/ a dead battery.
Went to jump start it (as it was flat) and fookin reversed the cables +- and -+ then turned it on. :icon_wall:
Naturally nothin! No light not even a glimpse of life in the eletrical system.
SO what did I blow? I pulled all the fuses and they were all good.
Battery?
Relay?
ECU?
Some remote fusable link?
I know no one on here has ever done this but if you have any ideas post up. Thanks in advance!
The heat index was well over a hundered and I was dehydrated....oh and the sun was in my eyes are my excuses.
I would first try to determine the state of the battery by disconnecting the battery from the bike and with a digital VM check to see if you reversed the polarity of the battery. And if so completely drain it with some sort a 12v load a simple incadesent bulb will do fine. Re-charge the battery (properly) and have it tested if possible and put it back in your Bird. Then we will try to help you move forward……
F/S CBR RR 900 Shock...
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Posted
Shock is in great shape with no leaks. Never had a chance to install it before buying and Ohlins.
$50 OBO.