Para045

Very "Phallic looking"

As BDAZXX said I don't think that you will have much luck finding something that will fit :icon_think: , maybe try getting some "clear alternatives from John01XX and tinting them dark as BADAZXX said. Funny - A lot of people seem to like the fact that the XX has the mirrors and indicators in one as it makes the bike look "cleaner" . BTW what are you going to do for indicators if you find different mirrors put small stalks on somewhere :icon_hand: :icon_nono:

There was a thread on using Buell Ullysses pegs as well on VFRD but I can not find it as they had a problem with being hacked recently and seem to have lost a lot of data :icon_think:

They should be the same pegs if they are stock, same part # according to Ron Ayers, maybe it was because your 97 ones are worn as I noticed looking at the pics in some of the threads that the "ribs" on the pegs are quite high but on my 98 they are nearly flush with the bottom part of the rubber foot :icon_think:

Well done What modifications has been done ? I am guessing from looking at the graph that it is either a V+M CBR1200XX or has been bored out as the legend at the bot of the graph say's CBR12XX :icon_think:

Is that with the WP springs or the stockers - my stockers are I think well due for replacement although it took putting a CBR900RR shock and 6mm shim to confirm it, she certainly seems to be harsher and dive more now that I have done the rear, I can go quicker in the sweepers but seem to be slower through low speed corners :icon_think:

Could be White Power springs :icon_think:

Well if as you say they may not stay where they belong maybe that has happened before and someone has replaced them with some other pieces of plastic :icon_think:

+1 No changes 03-06 apart from colour here in Aus

Maybe by filing the sprocket you have put it out of alignment/balance somehow and that is what the whirring is :icon_think:

-------------------------------------------- I think you are in Canada, right? No Perth, Western Australia :icon_nono: Do you use different weights for different times of year (example 10/40 in winter and 20/50w in summer?) I have not changed oil on the BB yet as I have only had it since March and have now done 10 000km, on my old CB750F with 900 motor 15 years ago I used to use Penrite HPR50 (40-70 ). It was designed for older engines so I always used it in my 78 F100 351C and the CB was a bit worn and smokey so I used it in that as well. I doubt I would need a light oil like 10/40 as the weather never gets that cold here, even at work in the hills around Perth the coldest it got was 0.7C and that was well before I left for work and the bike is under shelter. :icon_think:

I believe that all BB's are H7 :icon_think: Just checked Ron Ayers - yep H7 http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?se...g=34901-MAT-611 Parts found with Part Number: 34901-MAT-611 Description BULB (12V55W) (H7) Price $15.86

I am thinking about changing mine soon - I have just done 10 000 km ( 6 213 miles ) since I bought her in March, the previous owner did an oil and filter change before I picked her up and put in Motul semi synthetic and a genuine filter :icon_think: Probably a good time to do it as the hot weather is coming

Thanks for the thoughts. Sounds like the stealership is just that. I should have known when they charged me $5 for a bolt. Any more thoughts on other tires to consider, I know recently Cycle Gear had t a great deal on some tires? What about more opinions about a Pilot Power up front and a road on the rear. Stealership said that was a bad idea because the front might hook up in the twisties while the rear wouldn't hold on as tight. Keep in mind mostly commuting and even in the twisties I don't look much like Nicky Hayden. Thanks, this site is a huge asset when it comes to making these decisions! Your "stealer" has their head up their arse, I have had the power on the front for 2000km and just changed the PR rear for another PR and have had no problems, I tend to corner fairly hard ( not exactly scraping fairings though ) and have got about 600km on the PR rear that went on last friday and I have chicken strips left of only about 4mm on each side of the rear and about 10mm on the front

You guys are lucky - my new PR rear cost $270 f+b on its own, a front PP is ~$185

Are you trying to undo the bolt while the MC is off, if so it will be a lot harder to undo, maybe try putting the MC back on the original clip on and the clip on loosely on the fork just to get some leverage :icon_think: Just enough to "break the bond" so to speak, also I assume you have taken the lug off the screen side of the MC so that the banjo will rotate once it is loose

I have a Pilot Power on the front of mine and just replaced the Pilot road rear with another Road, when I put the power on about 2000km ago the D208 was badly cupped and nearly bald and the PP made such a difference. When I got the BB in March the rear PR looked about 1/2-2/3gone in the centre and 1/3-1/2 gone on the edges - I just replaced it after 10 000km because it looked like this and I love the new tyre - just be interesting to see how long it lasts :icon_think:

I mounted mine under the battery box cross ways . I made a little mount and bolted to through from the batterybox after taking out the battery. if you position it right you can still get at the adjuster pretty easy with a short screw driver. If you need a pic I can take one later today, if i can find a place to host it. Herb If you have a pic that would be great, I actually wondered myself about trying to mount it under there somewhere. I know its hard to see in the pics but do you thing that there is enough clearance where it is at the moment as there is about 1" between the chain guard and the reservoir :icon_think: I probably should have gotten the shock guy to put on a longer hose :icon_think: BTW Northman I was only going to use the zip ties as a temp measure to make sure it fitted before getting some hose clamps or similar Is this where you mounted yours ? Yeah well I ended up turning the shock 180 deg - not because of the bolt though as when bolted up there was about 10mm gap bolt to res tank, it was because of the length of the hose :icon_think: . When mounted to the l/h subframe I think that the clearance to the chain guard wasn't enough and would have caused binding :icon_nono: . Northman did say he notched the front of his chain guard but I didn't want that . Herbxx thanks for showing us a pic of it mounted under the batt box. In the end after rotating 180 deg I mounted the res to the ali bracket that the foot peg fits onto, basically the opposite of where it is in the pics, I cut a bicycle inner tube and slipped it over the res to protect it and used a big hose clamp . 17:37 Just finished - the shock was easy putting the pannier frame back together was a bitch though as while I was at it I took off the rear cowl and Araldited some cracks near the grab handle and the mounting holes Now going to have a shower and test my new shock, 6mm shim and new Pilot Road _________________ Well took my Bird out for a quick spin ( 10-15 min ) and I am still trying to get my "boner" to go down - what a difference :icon_clap: I can't believe it 900RR shock, 6mm shim and a new P/R rear tire and she feels like a different bike, I mean when I got rid of the D208 on the front and put on the P/P it felt good but the 900RR shock and shim have transformed her . I was actually searching for potholes, drains and manhole covers just to convince myself it wasn't a dream and the rear shock just took it all in it's stride and I haven't even started playing with it yet :icon_nono: . The preload is set on the softest setting, the comp is set 1 turn in from full soft and rebound 1 turn out from full hard, she actually felt weird when I first got on her as she is a fair bit higher although my feet are still flat on the ground - just my legs are straight and the fact that the rear actually springs down and up again when I put my weight on the seat as opposed to just squatting down ( amazing what a properly weighted spring will do :icon_doh: ). I can't wait to take her out on a longer ride tomorrow and test them on the shitty, bumpy roads near work. She even goes through the corners a lot easier ( and quicker ) although I wasn't really pushing her with the new rear tyre Thanks to HerbXX and Stealth and Raven from Ozblackbird for the help/advice in getting this done

I mounted mine under the battery box cross ways . I made a little mount and bolted to through from the batterybox after taking out the battery. if you position it right you can still get at the adjuster pretty easy with a short screw driver. If you need a pic I can take one later today, if i can find a place to host it. Herb If you have a pic that would be great, I actually wondered myself about trying to mount it under there somewhere. I know its hard to see in the pics but do you thing that there is enough clearance where it is at the moment as there is about 1" between the chain guard and the reservoir :icon_think: I probably should have gotten the shock guy to put on a longer hose :icon_think: BTW Northman I was only going to use the zip ties as a temp measure to make sure it fitted before getting some hose clamps or similar Is this where you mounted yours ?

You might be better asking this question on the BIRD site or IXXRA :icon_think: as that company is in the UK

Well I started to fit the 900RR shock and shim today and they went in fairly easily, now I just need to make sure of the mounting position of the remote reservoir, I have zip tied it to the underside of the left seat frame but it looks like there may not be enough clearance to the chainguard, how much clearance should there be :Any thoughts - Herbxx, others ?[attachmentid=5020][attachmentid=5021][attachmentid=5022][attachmentid=5023] [attachmentid=5025][attachmentid=5026]

Pete do you think this has anything to do with you drilling your mufflers, as I liked the idea of that but not if it is going to fuck up my running and milage :icon_think:

I bought a 900RR shock off eBay about a month ago and just picked it up from being rebuilt/regassed yesterday and the spring I have on it now is an Eibach ERS Spring # 0600-225-1100 (154mm-57.3mm-19.6Kg/mm) 6'' x 2.25" x 1100lb that I got through Eibach Australia, you could also get one from Racetech, LE Engineering and there is also the Hyperpro option. I would have liked to get a Hyperpro but to get one here in Aus would have cost me $200 and 6-8 weeks wait :icon_duh: The Eibach cost me $165 and I was able to pick up the next day It will need a ~ 12mm stepped collar/spacer made up for it to compensate for being slightly shorter than the stock spring and also to stop sideways movement as the stocker is tapered