XXBirdSlapper

That's why I posted to ask what kind of life people are getting as I see people reporting that their up grades die with relatively low mileage. I am going to crack the 20k mark in the near future and a plug and play stock replacement seems like good insurance on a 16 year old machine.

Ok, so everyone digs an upgrade. But how many have feedback on simply replacing the stock regulator and can report the life of this part? I know the design is dated, but who can report real longevity experience of the first gen part? Searches don't give real good data....

are you sure they were not there? With space at a premium I didn't even notice them. Curious if they are a recessed, press, or secure fit. If so I won't pull the cover. Well, at least if I don't hear horror stories. I find NOTHING about them when I search......

Air joint tubes and orings for 100 Alex? Anyone?

Ok, the top end is buttoned up, BUT while I am working on the rest of the project I was checking the manual and see mention on 8-26 installation of air joint and orings. I honestly didn't pay attention to these tubes and wanted to ask you all if it needs to be checked, or if it is inconsequential when pulling and reinstalling the valve cover. These parts appear to feed the pair valves in the cover assembly, and there are 4 of them. Now is the time to remove the cover if needed, but if it is something that does not normally warrant attention I will leave as is. I am guessing that they would not fall off when pulling the cover but want to be sure.

Ok, So I tore down the bird to do multiple maintenance items and upgrades. 15K valve lash inspection was in order. What the fuck is up with the radiator mounting design?? Is there any reason not to open up the notches in the plastic panel that the top radiator mounting tabs pass through? You know, the ones that do not allow the radiator to swing forward because the rubber grommets within those tabs prevent the two pieces from sliding apart easily...?

Which type?

Again, can you adjust the beam shape and pattern? On the ZZR1200 I believe the additional lighting is partially responsible with its superiority. The additional patterns with say, two more bulbs/assemblies would seem to pay big dividends. Do you have a pic of the type of LED you are referring to? I like the additional jight concept as it could be dialed in and focused independently. This looks promising. Anyone have first hand knowledge of how bright these are??????????? http://www.rigidindustries.com/SR-Q2-LED-L...-p/sr-q2-dr.htm They might be wider than the 'bird mirror, I'd have to measure. They used to have a 4-bulb, but I don't see it now. I have their 4-bulb cubes, they are unbelievable. Dualsport/adventure bike guys use one spot and one flood to great effect - that's what I have. These may be of interest as well: http://www.rigidindustries.com/product-p/91231.htm Are you running these on your off road bike? No, I have the older "dually", a 4-LED cube - one flood, one spot. http://www.rigidindustries.com/Dually-LED-...p/dually-fl.htm on your Bird?

Again, can you adjust the beam shape and pattern? On the ZZR1200 I believe the additional lighting is partially responsible with its superiority. The additional patterns with say, two more bulbs/assemblies would seem to pay big dividends. Do you have a pic of the type of LED you are referring to? I like the additional jight concept as it could be dialed in and focused independently. This looks promising. Anyone have first hand knowledge of how bright these are??????????? http://www.rigidindustries.com/SR-Q2-LED-L...-p/sr-q2-dr.htm They might be wider than the 'bird mirror, I'd have to measure. They used to have a 4-bulb, but I don't see it now. I have their 4-bulb cubes, they are unbelievable. Dualsport/adventure bike guys use one spot and one flood to great effect - that's what I have. These may be of interest as well: http://www.rigidindustries.com/product-p/91231.htm Are you running these on your off road bike?

Do you have a pic of the type of LED you are referring to? I like the additional jight concept as it could be dialed in and focused independently. This looks promising. Anyone have first hand knowledge of how bright these are???????????

I admit I may not have seen a HID on a bird. So not sure if they would or would not improve the shortcommings I see. Basicly the horizontal pattern the stocker creates is even more useless when the bike is healed over as half goes into the sky and the rest becomes more narrow and lower on the ground. Even on the level the stocker is way down on effectiveness when speed picks up and makes it most important. On an HID setup, what creates the pattern if it is not affected by the headlight reflector? If it is the light assembly itself is the pattern adjustable or are there variations available?

Have any pictures? This was more to my train of thought.

Well like I said, I really don't want HID. And really, even though brighter it is still constrained by the reflector design. That is where the ZZR is way superior, an why I was interested in additional lights.

OK, Prior to purchasing my Bird I had been looking for a ZZR-1200. My buddy got the ZZR bug from me and ended up at my suggestion buying a really nice 2003. Fantastic machine, with much bigger balls in the mid range along with greater weight. I found my low mileage 1997 CBR and we did some pretty hardcore sport touring last summer. I see the positive and negatives of each and declare it a near draw. However one area the ZZR is way superior is the lighting, particularly on the high setting. I don't want HID, and while the stock bulbs are in now I will upgrade to a better stock type bulbs. Regardless, the reflector design of the bird while good in the 90's is just lacking compared to the ZZR so even with HID's I think the ZZR will still be better. Anyone have recommendations on ADDITIONAL lights and mounting advice for the bird? Yes, I can experiment and fab, but if someone has already done the work I will gladly copy it.

It all depends on how much she weighs....

Once all the hypoid lube leaks out of the damaged seal, the gears run dry and tooth faces gall, peen, and tolerances go through the roof. The howl has begun. Depending on the type of gears they are likely only hardened on the surface, and if worn through this layer its now the road to destruction. Grease, and sawdust fills the cantact area and quiets it down. For a while anyways.... I wrote lithium grease.

Once all the hypoid lube leaks out of the damaged seal, the gears run dry and tooth faces gall, peen, and tolerances go through the roof. The howl has begun. Depending on the type of gears they are likely only hardened on the surface, and if worn through this layer its now the road to destruction. Grease, and sawdust fills the cantact area and quiets it down. For a while anyways....

Pack the centersection in saw dust and lithium grease and put her up for sale on the local Craigs site. Won't be long till the gears start howling, and then go tits up.