poida

the one on my 99 went at around 40 000 klms the electrition told me they usually take about 6 to 8 months or so to fully burn out till they don,t charge anymore.had the regulator rectifier cook itself around a year later.the bike started fine at home on both occasions but when i went to leave the place i,d ridden to the battery was flat and i had to push start it. but on the positive side the original battery is still good after 92000 klms .ive been told that if when you rev the bike and the headlight dosn,t get brighter thats usually a sign theres a charging problem .bike was out of warranty both times as well.

i can get the old one rebuilt for about $250 and then add the cost of an aftermarket spring(eibach or race tech) to make it more suited to the rough roads i usually end up on.was just curious if anyone has gone that way before.there,s not a lot on ebay in the way of parts here in australia so that rules out second hand ones unfortunatly.do you have a cbr 900 shockie on your bike northman

the rear shockie on my bike has finally called it quits after 92000 klms.i can get a new shockie from honda for $550 aussie dollars but while i found it good for single riding,two up it was a bit too soft.i cant really afford to spend a huge amount of cash on an aftermarket one so was thinking of having mine rebuilt and a stiffer spring fitted.has anyone tried this or can offer other suggestions.

you,ll need to replace it.i had the same thing happen on mine.a mech damaged it for me and didn,t tell me.when i washed the bike it would only run on three cyl till the water dried out of it.you will need an original honda cap and i paid $26 aussie dollars for it[local honda dealer gives me great discounts]another dealer quoted me $80 for it,pays to shop around as there seems to be a huge mark up on price.and yes they just screw off and on as usual

it,s an easy fix .i made up some rubber washers out of an old inner tube.

http://speedzilla.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=25795 came across this. dunno if the fun centre place is anywhere near you but might be worth a call

gday j red.my engine case was welded about 60 odd thou klms ago and still holding up.unless yours is cracked through to the point of oil pissing out i really cant see a problem of it being patched.mine was done with the engine still in place and oil still in it.before having it done i spoke to a few aluminiun welders,one was a specialist in aircraft welding(might be worth checking some of them out}and his opinion was its a straightforward job that would cost less than a hundred bucks to do.all they have to do is find out the makeup of the metal and the rest is easy.hope this helps

gday j red.i had a master link fail on my bike a few years ago due to incompetant fitting by a honda dealer.chain pretty much got spat out the back at 170 kph.on the way it cracked the sprocket cover which holds something to do with the clutch.the cover isn,t to expensive to replace .the chain also punched a hole in the crankcase above the sprocket where the cover bolts on.unless youve done some internal damage you will probably get away with replacing the cover and having the crankcase welded .make sure the welder knows his trade well as its important to use the right heat and filler rod.that can be done with the engine in place.all up you might be able to get away with it only costing $200 to $300.

how often do you all check the coolant hoses.the reason i ask is a while back i had to take the alternator cover off and noticed one of the rear coolant hoses was stuffed.it was almost paper thin on one of the bends .and paow i had the same thing happen on my bike a few years back.stopped at a shop and noticed some coolant leak out.have no idea where it came from but it hasn,t done it again.

the thing with the rivet links is to ensure it,s been properly fitted.i bought my bike from a honda dealer second hand.it was a year old and they had just replaced the chain and sprockets.a few weeks after i had the bike the master link failed as i was coming out of a corner doing around 170 kph. luckily no one got hurt as the chain just spat itself out the back and the riders behind were far enough away not to get hit by it.the dealer ended up replacing the link but they had what looked to me to be 15 year old kids fit it.instead of peening the ends of the link over they chiselled it down the centre and hammered the two halves over.i took my bike straight from there to a reputable mech who replaced it properly.that was about 60 000klms ago and when i have the chains replaced i buy from whoevers got the best price and then take it to a real mech for fitment and have had no probs since.

the blackbirds the easiest thing ive ever had to change brake pads on.took me about half an hour to change all sets the first time.dunno if you get the haynes workshop manuals in the us but there an excellent investment.everythings written out plainly and it,s saved me a fortune in mech bills

The polymer-based waxes are usually collected from specially trained robotic bees that gather the polymer nectar from plastic flowers (or it may be made in chemical factories). where can i get some of these robotic bee,s

gday pai.i just use a car wash and wax then once the bikes dry i polish it with mr sheen which is a furniture polish.does a great job.

ive had the afam ek kit on my bike for about 12000klms seems to be lasting well.picked up the kit for$270 and paid $50 to get it fitted.

hey firey, you eastern staters should be working out how to keep the camera from getting a clear pic of the lic plate.that way we can copy the idea for when we get them cameras here in the west

gday firey.as far as i know the drive is from the gearbox and is electronic.a bloke i knew a while back fitted an electronic speedo thing to his blackbird.a sensor was fitted to one of the holes in the front disc with the pickup cable tied to one of the front forks.

just had the valves checked at 80 000 klms mainly for peace of mind.mech reckoned they were right in the middle of the tolerances.can,t ask for better than that.if the bikes apart get them checked and you at least know you won,t need to check them again for at least a couple of years

replaced it with another 020.they seem to work well for me :grin:

that tyre must have been jinxed.first a nail in it,then an excursion down a grassy bank then clutch trouble.it had it in for you from the start.just had a new rear tyre fitted to my bike and after reading the earlier peice about the linked system not coming into play till the bikes moving i smoked the old one up.damn those bt020,s can smoke :grin: i just eased off the clutch while bringing up the revs and it lit up easy.reving and just dumping the clutch sounds a bit harsh .now when youve got the new rear on to scrub up the centre of the tyre ride along in first or second and clutch it with some revs.gets it spinning nicely up the road. :cool:

it maybe got damaged in a high speed get off.they look pretty solid to me and cant see them getting metal fatigue in normal use.

gday pai.it sounds like the cam chain tensioner needs replacing.i just fitted a new one to my bike a couple of thousand klm,s ago.took me about 15 mins to do .a very easy job to do and the tensioners are cheap to buy

i got a replacement strap for mine from my place of work.it,s just a large o ring.

i had the same noise on my 99 blackbird.was the rubber mounting washers on the instrument panel.as xxti wrote it,s a very easy fix