pcinpdx

Sent you a PM. LMK if you're interested.

If I could save $160 rather than $100 I'd take em...

Hey John, Just put in an order for a CCT and some push-pins. Thanks for having these in stock and at such a great price!

Anyone have a straight front rim for an '02 that they want to sell for cheap? PM me with a price and let's see if we can work something out.

You might be in luck. I think I've still got my full set from when I put the wave rotors on my bike. The bonus is that I'll be in Eugene tomorrow (Thursday) for a cutover so we could hook up after I get done. I'll look for them when I get home tonight.

I've got the same one. Looks like prices have gone up as I got mine for $50 shipped but that was about a year ago. The build quality is decent and it works fine but I can tell you right now, it's no Givi, but for the price differential it's not a bad case. As far as that cheap ass universal plate goes, throw it in the garbage. It started bending on me within the first 400 miles and the case was bouncing around due to the wind buffet. Nothing a little bending and strategically placed duct tape couldn't handle but the plate is more of a hassle than it's worth. BTW, with a little finesse this case will marry up to a Givi rack...

Ahh yes. Lower viscosity headlight fluid works better in low light situations - kind of like ISO on a camera. I don't know why all these guys are getting HIDs when they could just use lower viscosity headlight fluid. Be careful though - the negative viscosity fluids will burn out the headlamp quicker.

I noticed the same when I changed my brakes this weekend. Since the dealership didn't have them in stock, I put everything back together without them. I've ordered the new ones. For my '02 the description and part number are: O-RING (2.5X1.5) 45111-MAJ-G41 Cost is $2.73 per ring. I figure it's just as well to spend <$10 for something to do with my brakes. I don't care how mundane the part is.

Thanks for the info guys. I'll check the stock length vs. new length and take the bike in after I get everything installed to set sag, etc.

I'm just wondering if I'll still need to do the shim with the Penske. If I'm not mistaken, the Ohlin doesn't need the shim as it is ~6mm taller than the stock shock but I'm not sure of the Penske.

Check out this thread. Lots of good info in there.

I vote you take it back to stock and sell me the Penske for a fair price.

Damm it, I will have to throw on my 16T so I can keep up with you on 36. LoL...I'm doing that just so I can keep up enough to smell your exhaust! Check out http://www.whitebuffaloracing.net.

Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely consult the manual to make sure I've got the right numbers I'm almost positive that's what I'll do next time but if I can tear it down, see how it works and put it back together again without majorly fucking something up, it gives me some sense of accomplishment.

Sweet. Thanks for the quick response and setting me straight. It's all making perfect sense now.

Hobi, I'm pretty sure I understand but want to double check with you on refilling the fork tubes. If using the overfill method do I create an apparatus that looks something like this: I take it that I would insert this into the fork tube until it touches bottom and then suck out everything to the bottom of the MightyVac tube which would be right at the 230mm mark - correct?

I actually checked into the Viffer sprocket. Since I'm not positive I'm going to stick with the 16T long term, my thought is to get the AFAM at $21 rather than spend $55 for the dampened version.

Thanks for the info Chris. I went ahead with the 16T just because I want a little more grunt down low. That and White Buffalo didn't have an 18T in stock. Heck, if I don't like the 16T I can easily swap it out for an 18T. Front sprockets are cheap. Looks like I'll be ordering that speedo healer...

Yes, both after cleaning up inside the cover and area around the rod and also after looking at TopXXCop's last NWS post... Won't the 18T also help with speedo correction? I'm *thinking* about a speedo healer but if the 18T is going to bring me closer to reality I might skip the speedo healer for now. That, and my farkle list is outpacing my budget.

I've got it dialed in. Part of the issue was that I didn't have the spacer in, but I knew that. What I didn't realize is the thickness of the spacer. That, and once I did have it in place there was still about a 1/8" gap. I then put in the bolts that hold the cover on and tightened them (carefully) to make sure there was nothing binding. The cover sucked up as it should and everything is golden. Thanks for the push in the right direction Stan. :icon_thumbsup: Now I've got to decide if I'm going to go with a 16T or stock 17T sprocket up front...

OK, so I've taken off the cover to expose the front sprocket and cleaned everything up. When trying to replace the cover it does not go all the way on - it's sticking out a 1/4" or so. One thing I should mention is that the clutch lifter rod started coming out when I pulled the cover off but I believe it seated back in properly. I'm thinking for some reason the piston for the clutch got pushed out a bit while cleaning the cover. If this is the case I would imagine I could open the bleed valve and then push the cover on. I'm not too worried about getting air in the line because I'm replacing the stock clutch line after the the sprocket swap. Can someone help me out here?

These are actually helibars for a VFR so I'm adding another 5/8" inches to the overall height of the VFR bars (mini ape hangers?).

There have been a couple who have posted in the past about doing this upgrade, they've just never posted their results. I was hoping someone with the same set up would chime in and give some info.

Can anyone tell me if the Galfer lines are longer than stock or the same length? I've got a set of VFR helibars for my '02 XX and I'm getting ready to install. Would I be safe going with the standard XX setup from Galfer or should I go +1" or +2" on hose length?

Thanks Porter. Another question I had was regarding the banjo bolt for the MC - It would appear that a longer one would be needed if you are adding an extra banjo up at the MC. Is that correct? If so, can you help out with what you ordered? Possibly a part number? Thanks again and sorry for the hijack everyone...