dunedain

Well 10 days off the XX for sure but I took my time getting to it as my stable is fair sized! I got a Mille R which quite truthfully is way more fun to ride. A ZX-6R not street legal but I ride it anyway. My oldest has an R6 I steal from time to time and I have a Norton thats about to go under the knife but it's good for a run to the store and back. Plus after 8000 street miles I was ready for some dirt riding so the YZ's been getting it's exercise! LIFE IS GOOD!

Aight then! I found a 30 amp fuse and it was fine but if you look at the picture you can see that there is another 30 amp fuse under that little pink rubber cover. It was shot. Replaced and we in the business. Too early to tell if it fried anything else but everything seems to run and work fine so I'm calling it good. Moral: If you jump start your battery backwards (due to ......uh the sun being in your eyes) then the fuse under the pink rubber cover under your tail section is the place that pops first fuse.

.....do you get it on the map?

:icon_silenced:

Pull your tail section off. Use a good digital volt meter Put it on AC (Yes AC!) Voltage. Unplug your RR You'll have 3 yellow wires in the RR plug. Put the meter between two of them and run it up to 5000 rpm then note voltage, pair up two other yellow ones on the meter hit 5000 rpm. Then your last pair, the goal being to take three readings for the 3 possible combos. If you have readings under 50v and/or one drastically different then the stator is bad. go here to verify plus it's a good resource for checking the RR too http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_fault_finding.html Also, their stators are $139 while OEM is $242 (could be crap but......)

I never seen it but I own it. If you need a page I'll scan andd email it to you.

The 30 amp fuse you mentioned is OK I would not have thought that possible but I guess the earth changes poles every 150,000 years or so. Not it though. Proper polarity but only 11.78v. It's on the tender to see if I can get it back up. Continuity checks through the system so far are OK. Will look at the RR tonight then start taking the rest of the bike apart. hanks for advice!

No it just corrects for it better. Just nit pickin.

Also, most inline 4's have different jets for the inner carbs vs. the outer. does anyone know if that s the case on the XX as well?

I think I have an RR gone on the XX (98) and ended up w/ a dead battery. Went to jump start it (as it was flat) and fookin reversed the cables +- and -+ then turned it on. :icon_wall: Naturally nothin! No light not even a glimpse of life in the eletrical system. SO what did I blow? I pulled all the fuses and they were all good. Battery? Relay? ECU? Some remote fusable link? I know no one on here has ever done this but if you have any ideas post up. Thanks in advance! The heat index was well over a hundered and I was dehydrated....oh and the sun was in my eyes are my excuses.

http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap376c/ I got a Garmin 376C for Christmas on 05 and am just now getting where I can use it. It is a versitile unit that is considered a Marine Unit but works great on the XX. Sorry bout the monster pics (I need some kid to help with the camera too!) This unit is so cool! It has XM Radio and Weather. That's real time NEXRAD Radar, Storm track, Statilite, Wind, Pressure Gradients, lightening strikes (see the last pic where no rain but lightening was hiting all around and every motorcyclist should not like lightening while riding) and Animation right on top of your map so you can see where you arre going vs where that big thunderhead is going. Plus, you can do this while listening to XM radio's full line of BS talk radio, or killer music channels. Garmin has a motorcycle adapter plug you can get but dont! It is a 2.5mm connector and I have yet to find any stereo headphones w/2.5mm plugs. :icon_wall: Fookin engineers! There is a 3.5 mm plug in the back that you can plug right up to or put it into your commo system (which I do not have yet). The buttons are fairly straight forward but easy to fat finger with moto gloves on. The XM radio/weather antena is huge but can easily find a home on your dash, tank bag or magneted to your tank. I got XM way north into Canada almost to the Yukon. The XM service for weather is pricey $106 a month for both weather and Radio. I travel all the time and can use the bike while doin it so it's worth it to me. May be spendy to the round about town rider. As with any electronic gadget the moment I opened it, it was obsolete as we've seen Garmins moto GPS talked about on here and there is now a 378 series. Still this unit will work in the boat (if I ever get one) on the road with bike or car or on my front porch. BTW - I used the center mount single screw for holder and it did not last my AK trip. Mount it to the plate with all four screws. Honey ya done good! Sorry about gettin you a vacuum cleaner last year!

Got one on the 98 and it's magical! Very easy to dial in and extremely adjustable.

I dont know about the owners manual online but I can tell you that you cannot really adjust the suspension on the 98 XX. Fork oil change and level as well as changing the pre-load spacer in the forks and pre-load in the rear. You cna change springs but thats it.

I did it. The net gain was not worth the cost. No one should be allowed to sell a 520 kit for the XX (that what either AFAM or Sproket Specialists told me). I tore the hell out of the sprokets and the chain lasted half it's normal life with even twice the cleaning and lubing. I went back to steel sprokets and a 530 and even got a pro-oiler so I dont have to fook w/it as much I got so burned out on cleaning and lubing to make it last. Dont do it!

How limited a budget? I put an Ohlins on the rear resprung and race-tech valved the front and it's now golden. ~$1250 (that is dealer discount and my own labor)

I use it to clean a lot of stuff including my moto wheels as it's a PENATRATING OIL. It will penetrate passed the o-ring chain seals and eventually brake down the lube in your chain inside the oil rings so I keep it away from my chain. I use it on plastics too but get it off there quickly. It's good for removinf tape residue and stickers. If I get it on tires I use electrical contact cleaner to get ti off the tires. I use on my dirt bikes plastic just before muddy rides (if we ever have one of thoise again here in Oklahoma) to keep mud from sticking to plastic.

Was this some dianetic Keith Code exercise you were doing? What everyone else said except getting rid of the rear brake. Many a flame war has been started over that and I'll only say that there is no doubt most of your breaking power comes from the front if you know how to use the rear it is also essential for on the edge riding and racing. Once you boil brake fluid it gets full of air so it's useless until it cools and the air bubbles clear. May need to move up a DOT if you are planning on making this a habit. Depending on what dot you are at right now you may have to change lines or make sure you dont mix DOTs. I think someone used the term fade which is what happened got Brake Fade. Ricky Bobby has that all the time!

Ditto - Steel on street and dirt. Only the race bike and riller get Al

I hope you gave the bushing a good look too. once you wear through that teflon they get pretty sticky. Glad you got it right. A good reminder to change fork oil reularly. (for me that means every other year)

Ditto for the Tulsa, OK store. Good return policy and thats fine. Cheap mounting of tires true but they are the dumbest hosers I ever met. I dont think any of them ride or wrench. I don't like them mounting my tires as they really do not know what they are doing. Bought an Acerbis front disk cover for my dirt bike. I did not know you had to buy the hardware too....seperately! They did not even ask. I had to come back and ask them where the hardware was. they got all pissy. I had trouble with a K&N filter I got fomr them. Not even a suggestion just gave me the money back. Come to find out there is a little trick on the R6 for fitting those! They are open on Sundays & Mondays which my other shops are not but I only shop there if I know what I want and need and cant get it from my local shop Tulsa Cycle Supply ran by riders/racers who know! They do give my son a military discount which is cool! They will not contribute to the various moto events we have either.

I've got several sets of gearing for the XX and played with it since I got it in 98. I did some track days whi it geared higher. Did some drag racing geared lower. I even put a 520 on it for 10,000 miles! I keep coming back to stock and steel. I'm too hard on aluminum sprokets. It's got the original gears on it right now. Just suits me better but I'm converting it back to the sport tourer it was designed to be sinceI have track bikes and such now.

Sounds like the spring is toast or you may have lost your nitrogen charge whcih on the stock shock is tough to redo yourself. People like race-tech or lindeman can fix that. I went with the Ohlins. Freakin awesome. You can adjust your pre-load but you cannot make a spring stiffer. Crank your pre-load all the way hard and see what happens.

I did PRoad's on the AK trip and was lucky to get 5-6k out of them. I have PPowers on the Mille and they are excellent but lasted only 4k miles (400-500 miles were track day miles) plus I'm a big guy whoo rides fairly aggressive. Superbike Mag did a tire test in their latest edition and rated the PPowers tops! I've never got more than 8-10k out of any tire set.

I got K&N, Dynojet, & two bros' on a conference call and told them what I wanted and did not want and we talked it out. Came up with some settings that were perfect right off. The settings were different than what they would have had me do had I just followed the directions. This is advisable as you can refer to the conversation should it go south on ya. God luck! I say go with the K&N.

no yes no, no Get a service manual to taqke to a dealer. My throttle free play is zero.