dunedain

Bike Stand Plans _ I BUILT IT ABOUT 12 YEARS AGO FOR $50 AND IT TOOK 4 HOURS. I've had bikes of over 450 pounds on it. It may require some additional bracing for anything heavier. I RAN 2X2 AOURND THE OUTSIDE EDGE TO KEEP TOOLS AND PARTS AND MAKE IT MORE RIDGED. AND A WHEEL STOP AT THE FRONT. The top and back support panels of the stand pivot and form the ramp for rolling the bike on to the stand. With a heavier bike you will definitely want to be sure you have a fair amount of room for the approach in which to build up some speed, as otherwise you'll find that you can't push the bike quite far enough up the stand to go over-center and have the stand top return to horizontal. OR YOU NEED A FRIEND. After rolling the bike up Secure it with tie downs to some metal eye brackets on the sides of the stand. Bill of materials: 2 each Sides of 3/4" plywood (minimum thickness) - 72" x 18" 1 each Top of 3/4" plywood (minimum thickness) - 78" x 24" 2 each End panels - 3/4" plywood (minimum thickness) 24" x 18" 3 each 2" x 4" x 22.5" cross bars 1 each 2" x 6" x 22.5" ramp end cross bar 2 pairs STURDY hinges - feel free to use 2 pairs or 3 if you like, but the weight of the top in horizontal or ramp mode should be largely taken by the sides and top cross bars. Procedure: After cutting the various parts out (and no, it doesn't seem like you can get all the panels out of one sheet of plywood - get a friend so you can buy 3 sheets of plywood and make two stands) join the two sides with the cross bars. glue and wood screw IT TOGETHER (DONT NAIL IT). Then attach the front panel to the front (18" high) of the sides. Make sure the top-center cross bar doesn't extend into the ramp area, and is flush with the top of the sides. This is needed so the hinges attach properly and it doesn't interfere with the top in ramp mode. Attach the top and remaining end panel to each other with the hinges so the hinge is on the underside of the top and the two panels fit closely to each other when in the same plane. Now the tricky part. Lay the combined top/end panels on the angled portion of the sides so that the back end of the end panel is at ground level. Now mark the top panel where it hits the back corner of the middle-top crossbar, at the fulcrum point. You can then put the top/end panels on the floor, hinge UP, and upend the sides onto the assembly. Align the fulcrum point/crossbar/line on the underside of the top panel, and mark for the holes to attach the hinges. Now drill the holes and bolt the hinges to the cross bar and top. If you don't get the hinges attached properly the top panel won't move smoothly between horizontal and ramp positions. Turn it back over and attach the eye plates, wheel chock, and hook/eye for the back panel. A coat of sealer to keep oil from soaking in and you should be ready to use the stand. I cut some holes in the side or end panels for access to the area in the front end (away from the ramp) of the stand. It is a good place to put those full oil-drain pans so they don't get kicked, or storing other parts. If you put stuff in the back section, you have to make sure it doesn't stick up high enough to be hit when the top goes into ramp mode. It fit the XX nicely.

+1 did you follow this? http://www.cbr1100xx.org/files/reference/charging_diag.pdf

I got the 46HRCS on my 98 and it's good and the spring size is the same from 97-03. stock rate was 16.8 kg/mm, the Ohlins came w/ 17.32 kg/mm.

Did you ping Metz to see what they say? Could they be taking a while to heat up? This is odd. Any chance it's just you?

http://dunedian.smugmug.com/gallery/2047142/1 I've got my ass, elbow deep in making this a bad boy. The 74 Norton Commando was basically the XX of the day in 74 as it was the fastest bike on the planet. It will end up a Joey Dunlop Tribute cafe racer replica. Wish me luck and donations are also being accepted.

Whatever tires you get at Cycle Gear check the "Born On Date" as the last set I looked at were three years old.

I'm not sure I fully understand the question but keep tuning it. It's a process. Sounds like youre living right finding a rare akro. I'm sure there are some good maps out there for the PC that are Akro/XX specific. Are there any PC maps listed on this forum besides these: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...+injection+maps They may fill the bill or you may need have a tuner make one for your XX. Good luck with it. Doing the dyno before you tune is the way to go. I'm amazed at how many people dont do that. In 91 I put a Vance & Hines system on a gixxer and got 3 hp gain from an $800 investment and went about 3 seconds faster on the track. I couple of years later I took a racing school for $360 and cut 15 seconds off my lap times. Keep up posted.

I wish I could sympithize but I buy Repsol. $8.95 for several years now. A free shirt here and there. A free hat here and there.

I'm a wimp shifter so I got a shift kit. Easy to install and I've never missed a shift yet. I dont think the XX is listed but I he has them as I help Mark spec it. http://www.factorypro.com/

How I saw the boys in the AMA doing it. I tried it and did nor like it so well but it worked. It kinda wallowed out around the holes a little and it took some time to wear that back in.

+1 Rivet

:icon_silenced:

Anyone tried a proximity ignition switch on their XX. All you gotta do is walk up to the bike and it's ready to roll. Walk away and ignition is off. Sounds cool. Just wondering if anyne has tried one. http://bulletproofelectronics.com/arseHOME.htm

Repsol 10w-40

Good question and find. I dont run mine to failure but I changed them once at 15M miles and they looked great so I went 25M mi on the next set and they looked and same. Perfect. I figure I'll let these go to 40M mi to see what they look like.

I would take a small slot screw driver and pop the dust cover up. Take a rag and wipe it all down. Make sure there is a retainer clip on top of the oil seal. Clean it up and run the dust seal back on it. If the fork oil was just changed then it may just be residual oil. One thing you can do is fill the cavity between the dust seal and oil seal with bearing grease and put is all back together. stopped many a seep that way.

You have to have one to run the Texas Mile coming in Oct.

awesome disscussion points! Good job Mike.

Did it just last night full nekked and ran great. Went to the store and pressure washer. Plugged thge air intakes and washed it's naked ass clean. Ran great.

Come over to Heman's Women Haters Club House and Garage in Sand Springs and well figa it out! Or (maybe) Put your volt meter in ohms mode and check the resistance on your new bulbs versus your old ones and even up the resistance that way.

my 98 got a two bros 4-1, a K&N, and a Dynojet Stage 1 Kit all at once. They are all part of the same system so I'd make it breathe better on both ends and make sure the gas/air mixture and amount of gas you can get to it is right. you really dont want to hunt that down with trial and error down the road. I agree on putting on the EGA and even a dyno before doing mods. I got Two Bros & Dynojet on a conference call and we hashed it out over the phone. we hit a collective homer as the bird sings, still gets good gas milage with no poping or backfires (except at 10,000ft) What they came up with was different than the insturctions printed.

To me it's preferable. If I lived in Canada I'd do it every year during the off when it's dark and I'm snowed in (Yeah BC exception made) just for something to do. hhheehehehehe Otherwise I do it every 5M-8M miles or about every other oil change. You actually clean and oil you Kan N every oil change? Yikes! I'm behind. Dont day teach ya'll to read up dare? Every OTHER oil change my friend.

I say if you gonna do the rebound then do the compression too. likewise if you are going to make the front ride rigth then you better consider the rear too (New shock) It's a system within a system. I do happen to have a brand new in the box set of 2040's right now and they are your's shipped for $140. PM me if interested. I have other Race tech stuff too soon to be listed in the classifieds.

To me it's preferable. If I lived in Canada I'd do it every year during the off when it's dark and I'm snowed in (Yeah BC exception made) just for something to do. hhheehehehehe Otherwise I do it every 5M-8M miles or about every other oil change.

Whats the problem? Could be dust seal, oil seal, may need an oil change, may need bushings, may need the retainer clip, may just need to grease the oil seal. How many miles since last fork oil change, seal change, bushing change, on the bike total? Mine are original but I change the oil every other year and grease the oil seal being very careful when putting it back together so sharp edges dont hurt it.