XX

loc-tite or no loc-tite on install bolts (not necessarily on fork shields)

after about 1500 miles or so the wire jack (black case) connector that connects to the bulb prongs behind the rubbert gasket comes loose. i start my bike at night, the low beam does not illuminate, i stick my hand behind the dash and push the connector tighter and i'm good to go another 1500 miles or so. question: for you electrical junkies, is there an adhesive that i can use that will better secure this connect without making it anything close to permanent?

Joe's spot on. what i do in the rain anyhow is cover and drag 'em to make sure they are warm. i've ridden ebc hh's for the past 30k, wouldn't do no other rain or shine.

hey ya'll, i just noticed approx 1 inch lines running perpendicular to the end of my tread running inward (towards the center of the tire). Now I say lines because it seems they are neither raised or cut. If I had to choose one over the other I was say cut, and that is why i am writing. do any of ya'll out there have the same lines? am i just noticing something that's been there since i got the tires? or is this a sign of wear. or is this a sign of defect? my riding style has changed since my 53 miles one way commute is usuall high speed (80mph+) no stop and go combined with my weekend fun in the canyons. i've noticed the same lines on the back too :cool: bueller? anybody? tia davidw 2002xx

i go thru rears in about 12k, fronts in about 18k.... i'm one of those. but i believe it comes from the trailbraking lane splitting that i do, covering heavy all of the time :shock:

- i aint' that good, and i did it myself. there are diferent opinions about plumbers tape, just don't suck it into the system if you use it. bleed your brakes in order according to the manual. you don't have to remove much. and there's nothing hydraulic you have to unplug and worry about replugging in and bleeding. and it sure wouldn't hurt to have a longer lever torque wrench for tooling. the front sprocket is easier than the brake and clutch bleed imho. haven't done a chain myself. :wink:

ditto :grin:

this has been most true with my diy's and a great reminder point. I'm going to try to get that screw loosened somehow! $120 is for labor only. I told them I was bringing the oil, the seals, the o rings, all the parts necessary. Unfortunately it's become an issue of time for me lately but I hate not being able to ride to work until this job gets done!!!!

Thanks for the replies folks. Local shop says they'll do em for $120 labor only (i have all the parts necessary) - both forks, i bring in the legs. What do you guys think about that price, I'm thinking of bailing on the diy. Only thing that pisses me off is they say drop em off, pick em up 4 days later.... wtf :shock:

don't have a vise. have both forks legs off the bike. do i HAVE to 'slacken' the dampner bolt? if so, would a good idea be to mount the fork leg back on the bike, using the triple clamps as a vise, so loosen this bolt? i caught a comment by someone else that loosening the top caps first was advisable....

i like these, let me know where to find the resources!

stiffer springs have helped me a bit. (i'm 205 with 1.05's up front) and I notice it less on MINE with michelin roads :grin:

i have the same bike and the same pipe with a cf end can. did the same for summer and winter here until i got some rain. internal temps, according to the temp gauge ran pretty much the same. saved a little heat coming up from where the pipe begins to expose (under pegs) and back to the can. I had them wrapped from exhaust port to the cf can. as well, I used the spray kit that 2 bros also sold (the wrap i got from 2 bros also). i ultimately took it off for 2 reasons 1) it was damn ugly 2) and once the weather got inclement i worried about the wetness, and 'stuff' attaching itself - bundled with the fact that it really didn't make a huge difference in heat dissipation or shieldin for me or the engine. and it was a pita to put on without taking the exhaust off. disclaimer - i only read the 1st page of posts before hitting this :grin: p.s. no cracking of pipes or end can or any damage, and ran the wraps about 12k

um, huh? :oops:

sounds like the old pre-98 vfr 750 problem to me! short term fix - silicone adhesive. gives it a flexible adhesion. longer term fix - old airplane wing crack fix - drill a small hole at the end of the hairline crack, it will prevent the crack from continuing on. prevention: I was successful with my vfr750 in preventing further cracks by using a rubber washer .. but i do admit, i dont' hear of these crack problems on this list :cool: much, if at all.

pics working now? where can i get a fork seal driver? ron ayers takes a long long time when you order tools from them, i found this out when i ordered the headset adjuster tool! they musta had to get it from japan or sumthin :cry:

Hey folks, In reviewing the manual, gotta couple questions: 1) in overhauling, changing fork oil, or replacing fork seals, how many of you have, upon inspection - had to change your slider bushing (part #10) 2) And have you had to use the 'special tools' listed in the manual (see below) thanks mucho

Nice! :grin: Since the fairings are truly the hardest part to remove on this bike :cool: I just ordered fork seal kits from ron ayers, will be changing out the right side, as I believe it's leaked out most of its oil :shock: Wish me luck, i'm sure i'll be posting questions. The process won't begin though until a week from tonight (i figure i can do disassembly the night before) - as I still am willing to ride her to work on air and springs

no additional fairing aside from the front fender need be removed?

change your brake fluid, couldn't hurt. change your oil filter. 10,000km - i'd wait on the air filter, given a choice, and doing the things above, and wait until you get back.

i'm not going to assume that my left fork is the proper height of oil (the rt has leaked), '02 with 1.05 springs, what height is recommended? will i find this in my manual? i haven't researched that yet... too lazy

did a search, came up empty handed, so figured i'd hijack this thread. any suggestions what tools to acquire to measure this oil distance? and this might be a stupid question, but if one side was leaking, and isn't anymore, did it fix itself? i'm betting it didn't and the oil is low enough where it isn't leaking anymore, becasue it isn't. and the front end feels kinda bouncy bouncy instead of solid planted. thoughts?

ditto. very informative also via email for questions. also, a recommendation I'd make definitely if you are touring or commuting a lot.

ditto, except i don't get a fuel light (flashing) until about 160 miles. i wonder if the fuel light predicts remaining mileage or if it's run simply on amount of gas left because i could swear i'm putting 4.7 gallons in it and i've been running an open 50 mile hwy 1 way to work these days instead of the round trip grind of splitting lanes mostly :grin:

check out Lowe's if you have one around town. fitty sense or less a piece and don't break easy!