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overhead storage AND rubber maid bins stored in them. it's easier than you think (i did it), you get 'em at home depot, they're metal and they hang from studs. each one will hold at least 4-6 rubber maid storage bins. they are adjustable so the lower you hang them the more bins you can stack in them. unfortun the dig cam is out of commission.. nice garage roadrash

this device is sprung. the key, winds up a little thing that extends into the engine and locks in contracted. the manual suggests that you contract this thingy before de-installing. and contract the thingy of the new one before installing. then once installed, unwind the key to uncompress or extend the thingy. some folks have done this de-install / install without the key. if you got a key, yah might as well. clear as mud i know. btw, don't just pull the key out, the little thingy will unwind quickly and sometimes stick in an extended position. spoken from a true un-mechanic perpective :grin: :shock: :wink: ps they key is not the 'key' to uninstalling this device as it seems the manual is telling you. bolts holding it to the engine are.

43k miles on my '02 but ditto on the not driving to work an excessive amount of mileage like 180 miles a day round trip! i'm only 53 miles from work (one way) but only get the pleasure of riding there maybe 1 x per week :cry:

yes. it's a good idea. as well, they are cheap and might as well :grin:

stock weight now, which is 7.5 i believe. was running 10 before last change and was happier with that weight.

at 205 #'s RT recommended a 1.05 (by putting a 1.1 on the left and a 1.0 on the right). love them! now i'm 215 and wished i'd gone 1.1 !

ran my last pair of roads 10k+. replaced both at same time with SERIOUS flat spots in back AND front.... never seen a flat spot on the front before it was about 1 inch wide! and i was wondering why the bike was handling a little funny! tread was fine. it was a 10k spurt of mucho commuting and little fun in the canyons....

well taken. But race bikes see track, they don't see rain grooved freeways, potholes, uneven pavement, and wet versions of all surfaces mentioned. Installed my brace last night, per Warchild recs in previous post, all clearances A-ok. Rode a good 100+ mile freeway plus twisties, and noticed a significant difference on uneven pavement and rain grooved freeway. Now bear in mind, my bikes old in dog years being an '02 with 43,000 miles on it, last oil change to stock weight oil at 42,000 and 1.05 springs up front, I'm still betting the improvement shows on her more because she's old and worn vs a set of forks that only have 10k on them and might be a little older years wise. A mod I would recommend, especially at the list's discounted price, and especially if you are a true ST'r vs just a weekend warrior at the track.

1 down in the front is the way to go! beware, it WILL affect gas mileage.

good words! i'm going to do it. News from anybody esle? Ping :wink:

not to get too personal, but what weight are you and your front springs? i'm 220 and have a combined 1.05 set of Race Tech springs up front. Oh yeh, what weight fork oil are you running as well? tia

Doing some mods and maint. to the Bird this weekend and I'm again thinking of installing my SuperBrace. 1) anybody who's installed them successfully have any handling comments or experiences? 2) anybody who was concerned about brake line clearance (as I am) have any install experience or creative solutions to offer? I'm hesitant for 2 reasons: 1) i'm cheap and don't have a backup pair of guards to replace the ones i'll be hacking off 2) i don't like the idea of slamming the brace into my brake lines on big bumps, of which I seem to hit frequently on crappy LA fwys. Thoughts?

separate issue :grin:

1) $100 diy heavier front springs 2) $10 ThrottleRocker 3) $30 diy -1T front sprocket :cool:

strange, normally swmotortires have the best pricing but since I can pick up locally from parts411.com and not pay shipping, I beat their price: swmototires.com pilot road front 98.95 rear 125.95 free shipping, no ca tax parts411.com pilot road front 89.01 rear 115.93, ca tax but i can pick up, for those of you who need them shipped website quoted me $26 !!!! just an fyi.

piece of cake. hardest part is getting the bolt loose, just because it's torqued up pretty tight. take the hints above. excellent mod for the $ and effort.

yeh, i'm cool with those. it's the one running parallel with the sidewall, not down the center but just off center... :cry:

map won't change - even if disconnected from the battery. if i understand you correctly, when you say you pulled the map out and it was the same. try changing all values to zero's and it should communicate to the bike as if it wasn't there. interesting i wonder if the map doesn't like the new plugs and air filter or isn't a match for the bike. do you have any 20's or higher or -20's or lower in your matrix?

I'd bet that your bike is running differently (plugs worn, pipe old, airbox dirty, chain old) and the pc map is static for the condition of the bike when you first installed it. for example, as well, if the air filter was dirty when you installed the pc and the map and you rode it for 5k, then cleaned the air filter (or replaced it), the map is still the same, so the bike would respond differently. i had mine added and dyno tuned at about 12k, I'm at 40k now, same pipes, and I notice a difference, I'm betting its the packing in my pipe. dunno though, and I ain't no expert, just my best WAG. :wink:

i just noticed on my front, that there is now a noticeable (i'll call it noticeable because i'm not positive it wasn't there before) similiar 'cracked looking' line running thru the centerline (but off center) of the tire. same hairline cracked looking. and it's raised a little. and it's definitely off center. makes for interesting high speed freeway rain groove chasing! :shock: and it's been cold as hell lately and i see these lines in my front where as I've seen them only when warm before. I'm actually at about 7k for the front and the back tire. Done mostly highway commute miles with this set, and am starting to get a flat spot in the back. - Can't believe I'll probably end up replacing both at the same time! Decent mileage though. anybody else experiencing this centerline hairline crack in their fronts?

oh, ps, the manual calls for new o rings under the socket caps, just be careful with them and you're cool. 1 last point, careful threading the caps, some have been known to cross thread.

yeh, what he said above, and it's a frickin big socket at that!

if you weigh anything over 170#'s definitely do your springs up front. the right way is re-valving, new oil, and new springs. the simple, cheap, diy, for the biggest bang for the buck, is replacing the springs only. i'm 210#'s and went to a 1.05 springs only swap out. cost me about $100 if i remember correctly. cut the included spacers to an appropriate length as well according to the instructions because if you use the stock length spacers, you'll end up 'harleyed' with the front end higher than stock. if you get really into it, measure your sag on and off the rig and cut your spacers appropriate to the amount of sag that you would like. you'll immediately notice less nose dive on braking and a better sense of steering amongst many other improvements. bang for the buck, and ease of diy is what i go for :wink:

sorry for yah man! :cry: my bike suffers from overdue maintenance due to my outright refusal to take her to a shop, and my procrastination to do it myself. TG it's a honda :wink: i was no mechanic before I got her and have learned slowly one task at a time to do on my own - the right tools and space makes a huge difference! buy a manual and start browsing and readin up! and use this list - no question is a dumb question! (we'll make fun of yah though maybe)

got my brace on wed, it will go on this weekend :grin: probably with some blue loc-tite.