Opus X

I loosened the lower clamps and compressed the forks and that eliminated 90% of the wobble. I still have a harmonic vibration in the front when turn the handlebars side to side. It almost has to be something binding. I plan on taking the front end apart early next week (first chance) and putting it back together. BTW I looked at my triple clamp/fork cap measurement before I took it apart, it was just shy of 1 1/2" from the bottom of the cap to the triple clamp. Hope that helps redxxrdr. Tim

Yes, tire and wheel are mounted correctly. I read a post that suggested loosening the wheel cap bolts and lower clamp bolt, give the front end a "push" while holding the brake and then re-tighten. My concern is the only thing holding the forks on at that point are the upper clamps, and with risers theres not much left to hold!

I put my reworked forks in Friday and today I found a serious wobble starting around 85mph. While I had the front end apart I had a new Pilot Power put on and I checked with the shop today and he claimed the tire balanced perfectly. Weight is still on the wheel, right where he marked it. I also noticed when I turn the frontend I hear/feel a vibration, some kind of harmonics. This happens when I'm standing still and rolling slowly. Every thing seems tight, I checked the fork cap-triple tree measurement and it seems dead on at 1 1/2" on both sides. Everything is tight, could I have overtightened the clamp lower clamp bolts? Should I loosen one of the lower clamp bolts to correct for some possible "rack" between sides, then tighten it back up? Help! Tim

So it's starting to get cool here in the morning and I am trying to find out when my tires are "warmed up". Is there a magic number? I read the previous post and it brought up a couple of questions. Can you rely on the surface temperature to evaluate whether a tire is heated up enough for optimum performance? Is a laser temp gauge the way to check this? If not, how do you test the carcass temp? What do you use at the track? I noticed tire warmers are set to 174 degrees. How do they (warmer) determine the tire is at temperature? I suspect you guys and gals who live in the cooler parts of the country have a good deal of experience with this.

Yeah, that did it. I was confused with the post that said it was a tight fit but just work it in. ??? Thanks for the help. Tim

I am trying to install a Penske shock (group buy) and the bottom bushings appear too wide. I have a 2003. What am I missing? do i need to loosen the other two bolts on the lower bracket? WTF!

It was the right side. I don't feel any pulsing, but more a vibration. Sounds like I need to clean and grease before I spend any money. Thanks for the advice Tim

I believe one of my front rotors is warped. The front brakes were squealing and when I replaced the pads I found one side completely worn and the other side about 50% gone. Now I hear the pads "skipping" on the rotor when I am coasting. The aftermarket rotors look pricey, I haven't priced OEM yet. I wondered if the aftermarket wave rotors are that much better and is there a better price than Dennis Kirk? I just replaced a fairly new rear tire that couldn't be patched, put new pads on and spark plugs ($17 bucks apiece!) and now I need rotors. Thoughts anyone? Buehler?

Looks like a good layout, have you looked into moveable bases for your saws? (or any tool that could benefit from more infeed/outfeed space) While opinions differ on the need to run a grounding wire through plastic dust collection tubing I consider it cheap insurance. I own a cabinet shop and have set up shops in three different locations over the last 15 years, I'd be happy to talk to you about your setup and offer any advice I could. Let me know and I'll PM you my cell#. Or if you wanted to swing by my shop next time your in Tucson I have loads of resources I could give you including discounts on future tool/material purchases. Tim

I dont remember what I used but it wasnt a special tool. I believe they even talk about it on the site and for some reason a 12pt socket does come to mind.... anyways also on the site they have pictures and I didnt need any stinking clutch locking tool and this isnt the 1st 2nd 3rd or even 4th time installing one as I just put one on my 900RR.... so yeah cbrbear (quote) I looked again at the site and didn't see anything about the socket and while they have many installation photo guides they don't have one for the 'bird. I'm sure it won't be a problem I was just bummed that I couldn't do it on the only weekend I have open for a while. Of course I could work on it a little at night but that would mean I couldn't ride for a couple of days :icon_shifty: You know how it is, you have this brand new shiny farkle that you just can't wait to put on and then you have to ....wait. Patience grasshopper. I'll get it on and all will be right with the world. Any thoughts on the clutch disc replacemet Tim.

OK so I finally got the shift kit from Factory today and I'm thinking great! I can install it this weekend. Wrong. I need to order Honda part 07724-00500002 which is a large 12 point socket required for removing the clutch hub nut! This would have been good to know before I waited a week and a half for the kit. Oh well, as my wife would say "luck of the irish" (who new they meant BAD luck?). On the plus side the instructions look good although pictures would help, especially for a novice like myself. I will take pictures of the install and post my impressions of the improvement though it will be at least a few weeks as I am tied up with work on the weekends for awhile. Since I'm getting into the clutch anyway should I replace the discs? (or anything else) The bike is an '03 w/25k miles. Tim

Shift kit ordered. Went to the sight, sounds like what I need. Anything that will improve MY performance on the bike is a no-brainer. It would be great if it came in this week as I am riding from Tucson to Las Vegas on Friday. Thanks again for all the advice. Now to pick everyones brain (except DBLXX, of course ) about a pistol for my wife. Tim

I run castrol GPs 20W-50. I'm pretty religous about oil changes-every 4k miles. I am do for a change. i'll see what happens after that. Thanks for all the good advice CBRBEAR, what are the benefits of the shift kit other than fixing this? Does it enable smoother shifting? Tim

This is driving me nuts. Every once in a while my tranny is popping out of 2nd into neutral. It only happens when I am shifting quicly, (ie no lag, I'm sure theres another term for this) and all of the sudden, under power the tranny will pop back to neutral and of course my engine will momentarily race. It sucks because it only happens when i execute an otherwise perfect shift and can continue smoothly accelerating through the gears. It never happens in any other gear. Am I just not "seating" the shift or do I have a tranny/clutch issue? It is an '03 with 25k on the bike, I ride it everyday and this seems to be a new problem. This is my first bike and I lack the vocabulary that comes with experience. Anybody have any ideas? Tim

Anybody know where I can obtain a small piece of titanium tubing? I replaced my exhaust with a Hindle high mount and I am having problems with my heel resting on the pipe. The midpipes should be back from the powder coater tommorow and I thought I would space a piece of tubing, sliced in half, bolted where my heel rests on the midpipe. The powder coater had a job of sand-blasting the rubber residue off and I don't want to ruin the new finish. I thought titanium would be good as it wouldn't absorb the heat as much as say stainless, and I am hoping for cooling effect from the small gap the spacer would provide. The tubing would have to be around 2 1/2" in diameter and maybe 3-4" long. I don't have a problem buying a minimum amount providing the price is reasonable. The problem is especially bad this time of year with 100+ degree temperatures here in Tucson and the road trips I take to get out of the heat. Lots of places sell titanium tubing but for such a small amount who can blame them for not being interested. Any thoughts on a different solution? Tim

Since I put the bird down and damaged the left side exhaust can I thought this would be a great time to upgrade. I really like the look and sound of Hindles Hi Mount but trying to get a system is like pulling teeth. Parts Unlimited is telling Mike Barth at University Motors that it isn't available (even after giving them the part #s!), Street and Comp is telling me anywhere from 5-8 weeks! Hindle says "sorry, you have to buy from Parts Unlimited or Street and Comp." The bike has been down for a little over two weeks now and it looks like its going to be at least 10 more days due to backordered body panels. For you guys that live where you have "winter" that may not be too bad but here in sunny Tucson the weather doesn't get much better for riding. I could ride with a bashed up exhaust but... I really take pride in how the 'bird looks. Anybody have any experience in having a custom mid-pipe made? How about another avenue to buy the Hindles? Also a BIG Thank You to Tjvulvula & JuXXtin for all their help. If I have to drive a cage much longer I'm gonna kill someone with the bike I can just leave all the assholes behind! Tim

The Cycle Gear in Tucson had them as of today. I think they transfer between stores fairly easily as I have had several items shipped in foe no additional cost. PM CBR1100XXFlame, he has a set he bought several months ago. Tim

I'm in. As long as I have to replace a damaged exhaust can I might as well upgrade the entire system-"Power Commander or Jet kit recommended" Already have the K&N Now if I can find that mild NOS kit again... Tim

My concern is that they were even when I installled them and now they are 1" different. At this rate in a month or so I will need larger hands to engage the clutch I'll post what I find when I tear it apart. That is after I install my new brake lines (Thank You Melissa ), Mototek undertail (do they ever get the color right? '03 Black has a gold flake in it but MotoTek sent a staraight black) K&N Filter, and new tank! I did the HID lights and Pazzos 3 weeks ago. Now if I could just find a decent seat.... Tim

Anybody have a problem with the Pazzo levers going out of sync? I installed them a few weeks ago and everything was honky-dory. After riding home today I noticed the clutch lever is 1" farther from the grip than the brake lever at the same adjustment setting (1). I haven't had a chance to tear it apart yet, will do that tomorrow but thought I would "float" the problem and see if anyone else has come across this. Tim

Rubber band needs to be replaced, your clutch fluid level is low. Looks good. +1 on the farkle mount. Tim

Thank You, Now I can ride home tonite instead of driving the company "cage" Tim

Ok so I'm electric-wiring "challenged". I am hooking up my HID lights (Can you see me now?) and I want to make sure I have this right . I have the McCuloch kit , when connecting to the factory harness is it (factory) blue/white stripe to (McCulloch) white and green to black? Tim