gharknes

recently developed same problem here, when I arrive at the site I am logged in, when I click a link I am prompted to log in, this problem is at the server end not user.

if you mean the key linked to the bike then yes, my bike came from the home of Honda..........Japan

or the ingnition switch or both, suppose I was to change the ecu would I then need a new or matching key to that ecu

does a pre 99 bird have a knock sensor and if so - is it the same as a FI model

does anyone here really know about the knock sensor, technically what is a failure apart from an open circuit, what is the ecu looking for to determine a fault condition, i had a faultless bird until 25 :icon_wall: I have a little more information on this problem. I went for a longish ride on the bike a couple of days ago and noticed the FI light was staying off and therefore not showing the usual fault 25 (knock sensor) this has been the pattern over the last few weeks - showing errors less and less - unless I really gunned it to high revs and full throttle bursts even then it may not come on, well my chain was in need of adjustment so I tightened it up yesterday and now the FI light has started to come on every time I ride it even without gunning it. My theory here is that excessive vibration is causing the problem, not just the chain and drive but a combination of many things combined to give an overall excess in mechanical noise which the knock sensor is picking up and flagging an error because the ecu is not getting what it expects, I have noticed recently that the engine is vibrating more I believe added to the drive that may equal excessive noise causing the knock sensor to appear faulty. I have removed the sensor and added a rubber O-ring which didn't make a difference So what can I do that may reduce engine vibration, is it possible that the balancer shafts are causing excessive noise/vibration - if so how are these adjusted, is it a shop job or do it yourself, are there any other things on the bird that can cause excessive vibration ? some help and suggestions would be most welcome about vibration. PS the chain and sprokets where replaced about 2 months ago.

does anyone here really know about the knock sensor, technically what is a failure apart from an open circuit, what is the ecu looking for to determine a fault condition, i had a faultless bird until 25 :icon_wall:

does anyone know if the knock sensor on our xx is the same a a car, i.e. a standard bosch part or similar, I'm working with the idea that I can use saame from a car, I've checked all the wiring and I am still having a problem so I have to assume the sensor is faulty, not easy to get over here in Thailand.

thanks for taking the time to reply i read on another forum that it was a white connector - it seems to be black on my bike apart from that it would seem that not too many people know much about this, i am trying to understand how the fault system works, for e.g. if a fault is recorded will it continue to show even if it was a one off until i reset the ecu, or does the continuous fault reading mean that i have a reoccuring fault, i am hoping it was a one off and once i rest the ecu it will be gone, does anyone really know

OK I have checked the wiring and it is ok, but i still have a problem indicating the knock sensor, symtoms are after riding for maybe about 5 mins on comes the FI warning light, if I drop the sidesatand I get a count of 25, if i switch off and restart the light stays off for another 5 mins or so then on it comes again, is this basically saying my knock sensor is faulty or if I resset the ECU (clear faults) will it just go away, in other words will this fault condition remain until i do a reset or does it keep detecting a fault every time i go through this cycle, second, I cannot find the link to reset the faults in the ECU, 99 XX, I've had the ECU out but didn't see any reset link :icon_wall:

does anyone know where connector 6P WPC is located, the knock sensor seems to feed into this, it might be 5P, hard to make out on the diagram. I also noticed that the wire that runs to the ECU is screened, I assume this is to reduce noise.

recently I've had my FI warning light come on, it happens during or just after a blat on the trottle above 5000 revs, when i stop and put the side stand down i a sequence of flashes in this order 2 long which i believe is 10+10=20 then 5 short total 25 fault 25 refers to the knock sensor I have a couple of questions .......... am I reading the fault correctly if so - has anyone ever had a problem with the knock sensor before I haven't checked aanything yet, I know it could simply be a bad connection but if the sensor is faulty - how much do they cost, is it a unique honda part or do other bikes have same one. cheers for some advice

.......... for anyone that has fitted one - are bike muuflers/silencers "straight through" ? Yes, you can normally see through an aftermarket bike race muffler. However, there are often perforated small diameter inner tubes, and damping material between that and the outer shell. Often there are some arrangement at the end of pipe to reduce the worst sound pulses. Take a look inte the rear of an aftermarket can and you see what I mean. well aafter market car mufflers are the same, the are straight through with the perforated mesh in the inner tube, i gota tell you guys, if i can find something that looks ok and sounds ok then i will fit it, i don't care about for car or bike, if it looks ok then why not.............big difference is 40 bucks as opposed to 400

a muffler is a muffler, lots of people add after market exhausts, i'm just looking at options to do same for anyone that has fitted one - are bike muuflers/silencers "straight through" ?

OK i know i asked for views and opinions, but can you go a little further and explain the reason why it is rediculous, are car mufflers really so different from bike mufflers, I'm pretty sure I can find one that would be quite pleasing to look at on my XX, so what's the issue ?

OK I live in thailand and don't have the same choices of exhausts most of you guys have. I am considering going to a car exhaust shop (of which there are many) and if I find a tailpipe small enough having them make me up 2 pipes to replace my original stock system, I would imagine it would not be difficult to do. Is this just plain daft or could it work if I find a nice slim crome silencer, will it effect the engine performance if back pressure isn't right. OR should I just rip my original system apart and pull the insides out of it I want a bit of grunt.

the hunting at low revs is a cimmon problem, not sure how to fix it i think the XX engine just doesn't like low revs and no throtle, it loves high revs under power

I believe the 50VM chain is the OEM part that Honda would fit, it is fine and will not be a problem, if you look at the DID website you will see there is very little difference in the VM and ZVM2 specs, it is considerably cheaper, I have one on mine.

You have air but no fuel when you open throttle, the above sounds about right on the money

First of all, slipping in 5th gear is a simple clutch replacement............200 bucks at the most, wtf was 2600 for...........you where ripped off, at least it sounds like it, as for the RR and battery bormal failure for the year of bike again about 200 bucks sorry but this happens all too often, pity you hadn't posted here before you parted with yhis dosh, totally crazy when you could now own 2 BB for the money you spent

you can get manuals here http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Index.htm

I took six measurements in total: 1) three between each pair of yellow wires, which yielded readings below 0.2 ohms each, and 2) three between each yellow wire and the engine case, all of which yielded infinite resistance. your AC readings just don't seem right to me, I think it rare that all three stator windings will go down at the same time, your AC voltage readings should be between each yellow wire and not ground.....just trying to help

If you had read my posts I told you to check this one as I thought you overlooked it...............glad you got sorted

Trust me, it absolutely was NOT on DC. I even checked it for calibration by checking it in the AC outlet; it showed the expected 120V AC, well, actually 119V AC, but that's close enough. OK I believe where u reading between each yellow wire or did you ground one of the leads

No, the meter was definitely on the AC setting. Your meter was on DC.......................trust me

Your meter was on DC, but looks like one of your coils is reading low.