Flitemdic

Dave- that's trick! :icon_thumbsup:

Ron: Somewhere down a little, there is a couple of page discussion about this very thing. Someone else got a VM instead of a ZVM because of a vendor mistake. I think your VA fits in here, because I think Griff is right, it's an older O ring version. Consensus seemed to be it'll work, but go really easy on the acceleration, and expect a low life on the chain. There was some opinion- that I happen to agree with, that said- "don't risk it"- because if it bites the biscuit, it'll probably grenade the engine case with it. And that's if you're lucky. The unlucky scenario is it freezes the wheel at speed and you go down. Personally, I wouldn't risk it. Duane

Check your hinge spring when you are lubing up the area, too.

Empire GP paint, dude. Spend the time- they'll make it worth it. (No offense, Bandit, I just don't know your work, and I'm pretty comfortable recommending Empire GP.)

Get a professional to do it. My bike has been "Ghettobird" for over 6 months now for a reason. I let a non-professional buddy that was trying to get into the business have a crack at it. Now, I'm shelling out an obscene amount of money just to get it to a point that I don't get nauseated every time I look at it. You'll never get it to look "just right" if you're nuts about the way your bike looks. My .02 (and no disrespect if it's something you think you CAN do- it makes you better than me. I tried, using the same set up that you're talking about, to do my Corbins. Redbird walked up at TBME and said: "What'd you use on that, rattlecan?" I was too embarrassed to say that that had been my best attempt. )

Bob: Try again. You PM'd him right in the middle of endurance riding season. He may never even have gotten it.

It's the stuff used to lock down the rotor bolts and caliper bolts and such. It comes in Green, (weakest), Blue, (holds, but you can get it off), Red, (you might as well weld it on). If you go to the dealer and ask, they'll probably have it. It comes in small bottles, colour coded of course, and is kind of spendy, but a little goes a long way. There are other products, but that's the one I'd use. Goop is good, too, and I didn't know silicone would come of that easy, so I've learned something- it's a productive day. And chaser is absolutely right, a good cleaning will save you a world of hurt later.

Not at all disagreeing with John- if those are his instructions, but I'd use something like Honda Blue bottle on it instead. Silicone may tend to lock it up for good, or at least make it pretty darn tough to get out.

Immb- Esto es para cambiar la cadena, verdad?

The wrong spot you're talking about is a little nubbin that sticks down from the petcock. It looks like that's where the vacuum hose should go, but it doesn't- and will cause the exact symptoms you describe. It's easy to do- that was my problem. Read THIS. It's a good explanation, and I bet it's your problem.

On the deck at the air inlets. I screwed mine down, too, but I'm a little anal that way.

Vacuum tubes. Without a doubt. Have had the exact same thing.

Oh lordy, this is where I prove how stupid I am, are the pipes on the BB not stainless? All great suggestions. Thanks a million guys. As for the above- good point. I hadn't thought about that, maybe it wouldn't mark up- but with all these other products, I ain't gonna risk it. Thanks again.

I'll get Ms. Flitemdic looking for the old one I trashed just before TBME. I'm pretty sure I kept it for some reason. PM me an address.

What you're describing is pretty classic R/R failure. The crispy wires are the give away. The R1 way is, in fact, the ultimate fix. Someone else is going to have to tell you which year, etc., but you can search it here and come up with the info. I didn't use the R1, simply because I had to have it right fricken now, and the rewiring can be a hassle. I bought an aftermarket R/R from the local parts house, and it hasn't given me an ounce of trouble, but it's also got the cooling fins and such on it. Just make sure if you go aftermarket, you don't buy one for a CBR600. The book says they're the same for some of the aftermarket manufacturers, but it's really not, and you'll be replacing it in a year or so. As for the 'busa- nice bike, but it didn't fit me in size or potential squidlyness. Don't go to the dark side, Luke. :icon_nono:

I picked up a plastic bag on the exhaust pipe from the header to the slip on. It melted. Now it's a hard crust on the pipe. The guy at the dealer suggested steel wool, but I hate to mark up the chrome. Who knows a good product or suggestion to take this stuff off? I figure with all the show quality cleaning jobs guys, (and girls), here have, this should be an easy one.

And when you take it apart, check the angle of the air intakes. Make sure they are in the absolute correct position, and not out of place AT ALL. You shouldn't be able to get them, or any part of the air intake out of place, but if they are, water will- over a longer ride, maybe even a shorter ride- pool in the low spot of the intake and then the engine is sucking in that water that collects on a gradual basis, just enough to mess up your fuel mix and stall the bike.

Only year of black with digital. (In the US )

Boy, my answer couldn't have been more US-centric, could it.

It shouldn't knock, the bike has an anti-knock mechanism. If you can hear it with that high of octane, something else is wrong. At least in my experience

There's a really good thread on this in important threads Simply looks?: 97-98 both black, center gauge is a speedo, windshield is flat. 99 black, gauge cluster has a red FI light on it 00 Titanium, and that's about it 01 Candy Red, "pop up" windshield, digital dash 02 "Fastest" Silver 03 Back to black, but with digital dash

Yeah, Eric, but them damn Hayabusas have to take off at least 5 MPG for the fugly factor.

It is not pissed, just bored. The bike will ot do well around town and having to haul your big self around isn't helping. Mine doesn't do much better in the city. You really need to take the poor thing out for a good long ride. Mine has gotten much better as the miles have piled on. I bought it in November of last year with 13K on the clock and will turn over 33K when I get home tonight. Take a weekend and go put 1500 or so miles on the thing. It will thank you for it. Yeah, but 32-33 is really low, even for in town. When I was down a tooth in front, I got better than that. I wonder if you're down a tooth front and back or something. Maybe you've got some bad plugs. TX, I'm not much lighter than you, and the only time I've ever been that low was with these crazies in Red Bluff. If you put some road miles on it, and it's still doing that, I'd get it looked over.

I would like to see them. Photos? Yeah, me too. These aren't the ones that take forever to heat, are they? I read a write up in RandT about rotors on the shoot out cars that never produced enough heat to stop the car. Those may have been the titanium, though, I don't remember.

I'd GUESS R/R, there's quite a few threads about this issue, including one a little further down the first page here describing how to check it correctly. I would go with Blackhawk, though. If you don't want to throw a bunch of unnecessary $$ at it, get out the ohm meter and spend an hour or so- it'll tell you what you need to know. Good luck. (Damn, that's the worst Honda engine story I've ever heard. Mines a 98, and after the R/R and battery, nothing has gone wrong. Ever.)