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This is a great bit of knowledge! Barry- a word of advice from someone who's been there. Stradas go QUICK. Those aren't actually wear bars you are seeing there according to Pirelli, it's some sort of manufacturing mark I don't pretend to understand. I had an interesting exchange of emails with Pirelli when mine went. Mind you, mine had +11000 miles on them, but they went from looking "OK", much like the one you have there to what you see in the pic in less than 400 miles.

Well that's because of a number of things... one you guys are tough, and to it's not over yet, paul is still e-mailling me and we are working or trying to figure out why I didn't get the results he was expecting. Part of it might be my fault... not his ! My Long ass Mid-pipes are cooling the exhaust gasses down rappidly, and therefor affecting the way the Cans were designed to work. So be patient.... I'll post more when we know more. Edited to add: Fine tuning any product takes time, and as always, not everything works the same in every application... I'll get it sorted out... at least to the best of my abilities and understanding, and in conjunction with Paul. It'll probably take another week or 2... maybe 3. progress is slow due to all the other projects I have burn. But I'l get there. Good on you EVLXX for sticking with this and taking a positive outlook on the experience, there has been some really negative comments in regards to the output being quite a bit lower than Paul expected but as has been stated there are many reasons why this could be the case and as you are the one that has taken the risk and put the hard work in then if antone is entitled to bitch it is you but you haven't I am interested to see what eventuates purely from a curiosity point of view as I cannot justify the $1000AUD odd to even putsomething like Yoshi slip on's on my XX for the mild increase in power but if this sort of pipe were to get what is promoted then I possibly would look at it Yeah, +1 on that, Eric. Good on ya for sticking with it. I was really impressed with your attitude towards the whole thing when we were in Arkansas.

I don't think you can actually effectively turn the rotors on the 'bird, so I'd go with the caliper being contaminated with something rather than the brake lines. I've noticed that the one time I had a line problem, the brakes just felt soft, nothing much more. It sounds from what you're describing that the bike may have sat for awhile. No big deal, but you may find more than one "little something" that needs to be attended to. I like the list above of things to do. Very sage list/advice. As far as the pipe goes, you change the slip on, you're going to want to make sure you adjust the jetting accordingly. Even the small change in the tail end will change your overall set up. The RS3 is great, it's all I've ever used on this bike. Nice sound, puts out a couple of more horse for you. Personally, I don't think the KN that everyone suggests to go with the 4-1 Yosh set up is worth it, but that's just me. A PDF for the manual would take some time to download, I think my manual is almost 500 pages. However, I think it's on this site somewhere. Poke around. Welcome.

That's the same general look of the one I got. Make sure it isn't stickered "CBR600" anywhere. The first one they sold me was, and I took it back. The tech said "they're the same". Hell with that, gimme another one. He did, it was the right one, and I've had no problems with it. Others have had bad luck with Electro-sport stuff so I'd keep a weather eye on it at least for awhile.

Re; The -14 Yuasa battery. I had this exchange with the Yuasa rep last year. It works just fine, and I've never had a battery worry since. You can get them pretty inexpensively from Cycle Gear, too.

The R1, I have no comment on. Not being a Yamaha man, I feel unqualified. The other bike, however, well, there is just one thing to say. Nice job, I like the top to bottom fade on the sides.

Are you in the Kilgore over by Tyler? It's a little far for me to ride if you are. If you're down by Victoria, I might be able to help out. Anyway, from what I can see in the shop guide, it looks like you could take apart the kill switch and bridge it pretty easily- that would tell you what you need to know about that.

I had wanted to lose 50 lbs for the summer last year, and instead gained 30 after TBME. I topped out at 291 before I got things under control. I lost the first 31 lbs. just by not cramming everything on my plate in my mouth. It took about 5 months. This January, I got serious about things and read through several before settling on Body for Life. In 8 weeks, I've dropped another 31 lbs- down to 228 as of today- and haved dropped my BMI from just over 30 to just under 20. I still have 4 weeks to go on this round, but am going to extend it out some, as I didn't start the excercise component until I was about 5 weeks into the diet end. I figure about 210 by the time OzarXX rolls around, and 200- my goal weight- by the time Hookers is here. I'm 6'5", so that's plenty enough for me. So, yeah, I can say I have one that works.

Yup. Still highly recommended. They've recently taken back two busted chain tools, no questions asked, one without a receipt. And our SA location gives great mechanical advice, too.

Ghettobird got a full set of "new clothes" during the fall. Having been in Phoenix on a very unstable contract, (didn't know from week to week how long I would be there), I needed a local to paint the bike so I didn't have to send the parts across country. Fortunately, after alot of searching, I found Kwiatt Custom Paint in Apache Junction, AZ. The owner, Roger, usually works on Cruiser type bikes, but was very accomodating when I presented myself to his shop so he could have a look at the bike. I arranged to drop it off, and Roger even provided me with a ride back to my hotel so I didn't have to rent a car. He completed the work, but there was a color difference between the nose and the rest of the parts. Roger undertook to repaint the nose at no cost to me, and thru in a pyramid cowl paintjob for the trouble of having to bring it back. His work is very elegant, the markings on 'whitebird are custom airbrushed on, and look better than the stock markings, while maintaining a relatively stock look. Although it takes a while to get a return call or email sometimes, he always gets back to you, and I was able to witness that he works with folks on shipping, and his final cost is quite reasonable. Great work. Highly recommended. :icon_thumbsup:

Do you know where the parts are in Kaliforniastan?

Lois, order 'em from JC Whitney. They'll tell you they don't have them. Look under the Goldwing bits section. They are the same as anything you'll get from Hondaline or Royayers, and they're 5.00 or so for a pack of 10. I'll try and find a link for ya.

This is about right, Steve. Mine did what you're describing when the R/R went, but if you've got corrosion, it sounds more like a battery problem.

Carb is going to be different, of course, but mine went up a little with proper jetting. The 4-2-1 is a huge difference on the carby 'birds. Gets rid of the midrange flat spot. My mileage went down when I started dicking around with the sprokets, but certainly not with the exhaust.

Welcome! Post something up in the greetings section. Search is your friend. LOOK HERE

The numbers are good, and Brian's right. Looking at a newer or different charger might just be the ticket, the other thing about the numbers trending up a little is going to be a product of normal lead/acid battery recharging, it will tend to give out a little more power as it sits a little while- assuming the plates are good and the acid is fresh.

That 4000 RPM thing is kind of interesting in itself. That's right about the only place my bike ever made noise, and since replacing the CCT there isn't any noise at all, but then I've only got about 200 miles on the new one. I would have thought the design is the way it is for simplicity. An internal tensioner like the one on that big-ass cool looking car engine would leave for room for catastrophic engine failure if it ever let go- wouldn't it?

I started off to say there isn't any way without alot of fabrication. However, after having pulled up a picture of myself on both bikes, (different scale, but close enough), and then looking over the microfiche at Ron Ayers, (www.ronayers.com), you might just get away with it, assuming you didn't want the whole side panel, airdam thing. The anchor points are somewhat similar on the frames of both- probably not in exactly the same place, but close. The only real problem is going to be the mirror stays. The Hurricane doesn't have them up where you need them for the 'bird's mirrors and windshield. On a glance, though, it looks doable, and I think you would get more from looking at the online fiche and figuring out a scale than you would be trying to interpret it from whatever pics we could post up. I'd start with the nosecome and go from there. Get one of those unpainted ones that guy is selling on Ebay- or better yet, see if he makes them for the Hurricane- his ad says he fabricates lots of different bikes.

If the bucking you're talking about is when you put it in gear with clutch in- then that's normal at cooler temps. The idle problems, I don't know about. Yours is FI, my carby does that sometimes when it's time for a tank of Seafoam or an air cleaner cleaning. I'm sure others with FI with kick in here before long.

I got the turn signal issue with heavy rain last year. Blew it out with compressed air, taking the switch off first, no problem since. (and I had purchased a replacement L hand switch just in case.) I wonder if, being on the same switch, if it might be the same problem? I also have an OEM switch set up sitting in a box on the shelf if you have a bad issue with it. Let me know. EDIT: Although..... automatic high beams in the rain is kind of cool. Something some German designer might have thought of. :icon_think:

EDIT: Move along, nothing to see here. I'm a dumbass.

New sig line?

What is this WINNNN---TERRRR you speak of? I believe I may have heard of some time of year where it gets into the 60's where I live. Is this it? If I have a project, the bike has to come off the road and I am sad. Ahhhh, a second bike, that's the ticket!

Yeah, I'd be in for one, too. I just hope it doesn't hit the same paycheck the peg lowering devices come in, or John finds us some right hand Euro switches, or someone doesn't come up with a chain/sprocket group buy, or..........