IcePrick

I think most people have resigned themselves to DC being full of liars and cheats. I'm not condoning it, but I fear it's a permanent reality. It's a shame, but who has the time or power to do anything but complain? It's rare to find a ballot choice without some filth, and even if there was one, they don't have a lot of unpolluted choices for staff. Even the few good ones can be corrupted. If the choices are only between liars and cheats or liars and cheats with a good economy, lower taxes, lower unemployment, etc., I don't know why I wouldn't choose the latter. There may be some logical reasons why someone would leave the country because of the president... someone with strong socialist values not seeing movement in the direction they wish, illegal aliens in fear of new enforcement measures who decide to just self-deport on their own terms, probably a few others that I haven't considered. Those are two that a change of country might rectify. I just can't think of many reasons to leave the US wherein an alternative flag would be a marked improvement as opposed to waiting out the current administration.

I was attempting to find a reason why someone would leave the country over what is unquestionably a temporary political figure. I presented those examples as a sarcastic counterpoint to highlight that I am unaware of anything perpetrated by President Trump so aggregious as to make a sane, logical person flee the most free country in the world. If you have some examples to support an alternative argument, you're free to present them, or contradict my exemplars. Otherwise, it sounds like another whining liberal casting broad, nonspecific allegations because they don't like the man in the White House for reasons they may not even have yet realized or admitted to themselves.

The first failure point is where you decided to overthink this. I hope the second sentence isn't the second failrure point. Best of luck.

It ain't all roses. He may be as batshit crazy as Ron Paul or Bernie. But... which of those do you contest?

I wonder what it was that made them leave? The consistently improving unemployment numbers? The steadily rising economy? The the evidence that aggressive anti-US foreign dictatorships are begrudgingly reaquainting themselves with respect, moderation, and diplomacy on the international stage? Could it be the attempts to prevent the US from going down the same failed path the EU is stuck on in regards to immigration? Maybe it was the protecting and defending of the Constitution that pushed them over the edge?

I agree that the old heater is a liability, a weak link in the system. And as Tim said, path of least resistance - there's no way to "branch" the inlet water off in such a way that you can ensure any kind of real circulation in the old tank. I don't see an issue putting it in-line before the new heater, and regarding your concern about heat loss, they make heat traps to prevent soak backwards to the old tank (well, they make them for a different reason, but you can use it for that)... not sure that would affect an instant system, doesn't it have to sense flow AND low temp before it kicks on? I understand your redundancy theory, but it really is far more logical to at least remove it from the system if not from the space it's in. If I HAD to leave it for some reason, AND keep it operational-ready, I'd shut off both the inlet and outlet, connect a hose to the drain, and manually flush it once a month by opening the drain and inlet - use the hose to water the plants or a tree or something. That won't stop the elements from corroding/deteriorating, so it may not work if you ever power it back up anyways. But I agree with the consensus - there's little advantage in keeping it available, and some potential downside. You're introducing complexity and an additional failure point to the water system, and possibly an additional preventive maintenance schedule to your calendar.

Empty, it will go away in no time. Leave it full and flush quarterly or semi-annually? I'm guessing. No doubt someone here has actual experience with such things.

I'm curious why you're leaving the tank unit, and even doing extra work to leave it. If you must leave it: shut off and lock out the breaker (or electrically disconnect entirely), then drain it, refilling with a good quality Bourbon as an antifreeze/preservative.

Hope she did okay on it. Rushed sales are rarely good for the seller, and sometimes not so good for the buyer.

My ZXXX uses ZX10R wheels, but I had to use a ZX12 sprocket. Don't know if that factors in any way. No idea if the front is a bolt-in, because I have ZX14 forks (I'm guessing not). The 10R rear rotor doesn't line up with the BB caliper, and it's been too long for me to recall what I had to do to make it work. Pretty certain I used the ZX10 caliper and hanger, and shimmed things to match. All this to say that ZX10 wheels may be an option if you can make the front fit. It won't be a direct bolt-in for at least the rear, though.

Shorai chargers have the ability to monitor individual cell health, and you can also electronically put them into a long-term storage mode. I believe the cell-health data is used to balance charging internally. I would guess other brands offer the same features. The Shorai charger I had quit after a couple/few years, so I can't say great things about that other than it did keep them topped off while it worked. On the other hand, I called Shorai last spring (long after the warranty had run out) and they said if I sent the broken charger back they would send me a new one for around $50. I haven't taken them up on the offer as I have been totally ignoring them and even when flat a couple times, hooking them up to the pickup truck's charging system has brought them back to life every time thus far (except for the one that died on the XX, haven't given that a try yet). As for all the other comments - "crap, they sent me a goddamn inert display battery!", the speed at which it spins a motor, the size/CCA (equivalent) factor. A downside is the reluctance to start cold - some folks run their headlight for a minute to warm the battery up, I tried it and it works. Somebody reported connecting a grip heater to a switch and wrapping it around the battery, hit the switch for 20 seconds and it warms the battery both through discharge and the heat from the grip. Another downside: reportedly, they work like a banshee right up until they don't - as in, they start like brand-new on their last start, then the next time you push the starter the battery is simply no more. I haven't experienced this, but I do carry one of those pocket-sized jump starters with me when I am going somewhere that a dead battery would be more than an inconvenience.

I can +1 on Shorai for one of them I have, mixed reviews on another, and a thumbs-down on the third. But the prices are getting better, the weight savings on a race bike or something that needs light weight (dual-sport with a battery up high) can be worth the extra. I'd cruise Rocky Mountain ATV, Revzilla, and the other usual suspects - sign up for their emails, there will be an "amazing deal" in short order. Mine have come from Kurt and Martha at Black Dog Cycle Works, they're acquaintences from the adventure bike world and their prices are competitive or better - good folks who go out of their way to make sure things are right, and they're just genuine decent people trying to make their dream come true with a mom and pop motorcycle store.

Wow! Fun times. Good that you were able to catch it early.

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See my dog food recipe in the Beans thread - omit the hot dogs, otherwise it's a pretty good protein source that's tasty and low in fat. Add veggies and some fruit at different times of the day, dairy (cheese, yogurt, or milk) for fat. Eggs as necessary, they aren't the devil. No, that's all bullshit, but I figured I'd add my 2 cents as I'm the picture of health.

Yeah, I got one again a little while ago.

No issues so far today. A couple days ago, it was maybe 1 in 6 new pages.

I was getting it intermittently the last few days on OSX 10.11.6/Safari 11.1. Figured it was just a temporary issue, probably not mine as the .org is the only site I see it happen on.

That's a smokin' price for a nice, low-mile XX.

I know that just slapping on a wild map without doing the reinforcement necessary to handle the additional stresses is risky, at best. What mechanical mods should be done prior to adding modest levels of boost and increasing fueling? I can guess at head studs, maybe head gaskets... I know that's a very open-ended question, and dependent on what one starts with as a base motor and how they define "modest - but what are some common ones? Keeping it simple and staying on the motor, not the driveline and tires

Are there alternatives to tune a modern Diesel that is digitally controlled? Wouldn't the existing stock software try to work against any mechanical mods one makes to attempt to bring it back into the stock parameters? If you increased injector size, FP, or mechanically altered boost pressure, wouldn't the software read the additional fuel flow or boost pressure and try to "correct" it? I've never done any sort of performance tuning on a Diesel - a computer-controlled one or not - so I have no idea - but since I find myself thinking about Diesels a lot lately, I'd like to hear your thoughts on alternatives to performance modification software.

Thank heavens for context. Looks like something out of Penthouse Letters.

I filled up a tank with 100 octane avgas in my SuperHawk once... the fuel cap seal leaked forevermore. Something was incompatible with the rubber used, and I don't know that the fuel cap seal would be the only victim. It could have been entirely coincidental, but it sort of swelled up and wrinkled. YMMV.

Somebody here FINALLY admitted they wanted a tranny. The exodus from the closet should look like someone yelled "free boobies" at midnight in the parking lot at NeXXt.

Constant-on, you will get that alert long before it's your turn in the crosshairs even with a marginal detector. Instant-on is the issue - that's where good, long-distance alerts that a quality machine, like a Redline or well-tuned V1, will help. I've had an instant-on hit from over 8 miles (rural New Mexico, flat land and the guy was in a depression in the median, almost totally invisible until less than 100 yards away) on both of these units... just enough to let me know there's someone way ahead sampling traffic. Now, if you're the only possible target for a very long distance, or in heavy vegetation, rolling hills and around corners from the shooter, you will probably be toast. There are dozens of winning scenarios for verbal interaction, but I've had decent luck with honesty - "such a nice day WITH GREAT VISIBILITY, beautiful road WITH NO TRAFFIC, I didn't realize I was going too fast FOR CONDITIONS. I usually have traffic to sort of gauge my speed to, but WITH NO OTHER VEHICLES OUT HERE I guess I let it sneak up on me a little".