IcePrick

Draining all fluids is a fairly standard long-term storage practice. Leaving the oil in would not have prevented the rust, it just would have been on areas not immersed in oil. I personally believe the best practice is to install fresh oil before storage, and ensure that it gets cranked regularly and enough to circulate the lubricant. But, right or wrong... not my fault. Disney drained it before they auctioned it, no telling how long it sat there before Tom bought it at auction. I think he had it a year or two (also in Florida), before I took it off his hands. I got it flushed, filled, and cranked over a bunch within a week of getting it to Tennessee. Added Seafoam to it as well. We'll see how it goes - I'm envisioning rusty bearings and races throughout. But I also think the clutch material may have absorbed moisture and held it, causing the rust on the plates... maybe the internals are okay. After some parking lot hooliganism, the oil looked fine but I think I'll take a spare filter in case I want to do a mid-day change at the track.

Hopefully, that's the last roadblock in prepping this thing.

Took the clutch cover off, nice thick rubber gasket. The service manual showed a special tool to thread into the pressure plate to keep it aligned while removing - I was a little concerned as I don't have the special tool. However, once I got it open, my clutch looked nothing like the clutch in the service manual, and required no special tools for disassembly. As I guessed, there was a good amount of rust between the friction plates and disks. I used some emory cloth to clean up the disks, and I sprayed the friction plates with brake cleaner and wire brushed them before spraying them clean. Reassembled, and the clutch worked with the bike off. Started it up... hey, it runs when I pull in the clutch and snick it into gear! The reason I didn't just do that last night was because it had already been a long day, and I wanted to review the service manual first. As it turned out, it wasn't even remotely complicated. Probably an hour from start to finish. One bolt needed for the right side hand guard, and it's going on the hitch hauler for the trip to RacerXX!

No such luck - oil fill is in the frame by the triple, Honda XR-style. I'll rip it apart today.

I miss Stan....

Yeah - guess I'll have to go that route. I was hoping for a different "fix", opening her up tomorrow is on my list.

Nah, I was hoping I wouldn't have to open it up mostly because I'm unsure of the sealing surface - an o-ring would be great, but if it's a toasted gasket I'm screwed. Taking the plates out and cleaning them is probably the "right" thing to do, but it is an $1100 bike and this is RacerXX, right?

Working on my GasGas FSR 450 SM (okay, deciphered - that means a fuel-injected 450 four stroke single supermoto) in preparation for RacerXX Ocho. The bike has been sitting without fluids for 2-3 years, most of it in Florida under shelter at Rockertom's place. I filled it with the appropriate liquids earlier this spring, and it has been a bit of a journey - not unexpectedly - and now I'm finding that the clutch is not working. It feels as if the clutch is working, in that the lever feel is what I would expect - not like it has air in the system. It will not budge in gear, engine off, with the clutch pulled in. Engine running in neutral, shifting into first will kill it instantly. I was able to start it in neutral, run along side it, and shift it into first to get it going - rode perfectly, except for the fact that the clutch lever does *nothing*. Wheelies are awesome (EFI is incredible!), but all kinds of on-off-on the gas with the clutch lever in making it stress the clutch and it won't break free. Euro trials and enduro bikes are well known for dragging clutch issues. My guess is that the period in storage allowed the clutch plates to corrode together. Any thoughts on getting it loose, other than breaking into the case and disassembling the clutch? I don't have a lot of time before I have to load it on the pickup to head to Jennings... gotta get this solved ASAP.

Jeebus, with all we've been through... You won't let me adjust the valves?

Oh, didn't I lust for that bike back in the day. She's needy, though, like the KTM - IIRC the oil changes and valve checks are pretty rapid-paced. And it's double the fun on valve checks. I really wanted an FI bike, and 70HP from a light v-twin has to be a blast. Ultimately, I went with the KTM for dealer support at the time, but the Ape being only a 5 speed was also in the back of my mind. The KTM dealer went out of business about 3 months after I bought my 530. Then again, the Aprilia dealer didn't last a whole lot longer - 2008 saw many a gravestone planted in front of toy stores. When you get one, can I putt around the Jennings parking lot on it like a grandma on her way to church on Sunday?

Why, that sounds like the RDFGS: http://www.rdforum.org/wiki/index.php?title=RDF_Geographical_Survey A jammer is far from impossible to conceal on a bike. I'm not prone to flaunting my countermeasures to the world, but some knowledgeable people have seen my install on the XX and have indicated approval. The ECU is completely concealed in the nosecone, the rear head is mounted inside the taillight and masked; the front head is in that thin area of real estate between the bottom of the windscreen and the top of the fiberglass fairing, painted flat black and functionally invisible behind IR glass. There is a nondescript LED (looks like an alarm LED) on the dash and the controls/audio are BT to the Sena via iPhone - immediately concealable with the swipe of a conductive-gloved finger. It's set to jam for 4 seconds, then go into inactive standby for 2 minutes. That prevents a Jam to Gun, wherein the operator of the laser SMD knows he's seeing a countermeasure. In the two minutes, I can choose to power down instantly (traffic stop scenario) or reset, or just let it automatically come active after the 2-minute delay. On a bike, the worst give-away to an SMD operator is headlight dive. Good news is, a laser SMD is necessarily line of sight, which in most cases works both ways. You can say you saw brake lights or the police car to allay suspicions. A dedicated traffic guy that is suspicious and has a hard-on for the game would find most concealed installs given the time and inclination, but the game is won by being the least obvious prey - don't attract their attention in the first place. A bike is a little harder to acquire than a SUV, jam and jump on the brakes and he'll likely just skip to the next target before he even gets a lock. Like instant-on, if you're the only target on the road - you're screwed. Don't be that prairie dog that runs along the top of the range backstop after all the pins are knocked down and everyone's still loaded.

I wouldn't have missed it if the forum hadn't been giving me the database error when looking for new posts.

Man, that's a lot of questions packed into just a few short sentences. Modern laser jammers operate constantly in receive mode, waiting to sense a LIDAR emission. When they detect it, they respond freakishly quickly with overwhelming energy back to the transmitting unit. This confuses the speed measuring device (SMD). Some LIDAR SMDs can throw an error code that indicates jamming, cops are trained to detect it through the inability to "lock" on a target, and jamming is illegal in some states. If not illegal, seriously frowned upon, and if detected, is likely to earn you a traffic stop and vehicle safety inspection or some such roadside delay/pseudo-punitive response. One has to be careful in overusing a jammer, as getting caught with one is bad for the community (prompts legislation outlawing them-they gather such data) and can cost you your system and a great deal of money. Tennessee can impound your vehicle and seize the system. Jammers use multiple "heads" or emitters on the protected vehicle to ensure ample responsive return IR energy. Usually three in the front, two in the back for maximum coverage. They have to be located near the most vulnerable parts of the vehicle, aimed properly and leveled, and tested and maintained to ensure they are effective in the initial installation and that they haven't degraded through accumulation of dirt on the emitters or them getting out of level/misdirected. Aiming/leveling them is pretty strait forward (in both meanings of the phrase), and one can use a night vision video camera or NVGs to help aim them with, and a LIDAR SMD to test them with. Doing a well-concealed installation complicates cleaning, aiming, and leveling in most cases. Radar detectors (RD) manufactured in the last 10-15 years respond very well to "instant-on" radar - some even detecting "pop" transmissions (generally not a court-accepted practice for SMD, but it's used to pre-screen traffic without giving away presence to RD users before obtaining a legal measurement). The problem with instant-on is that if you're the one in the sights, you generally can't react and decelerate fast enough to avoid an accurate measurement. This is where a sensitive detector and learning it's language comes into play - one or two little Ka-band blips a minute apart are telling a story about activity in the RF spectrum, and it may apply to you very soon.

http://www.alpriorityusa.com It has to be installed well, and tested. And maintained. And updated regularly. And tested after it is maintained and updated. But it is an amazing piece of equipment. Don't forget to test it. Regularly.

Everybody is "interested" in #8. In what way depends on perspective.

You misunderstood, but it's not worth explaining.

Tell him a guy gave you a deposit on it, he has until next Friday to come up with the money : )

I realized I crapped in your thread just after I posted. Sincere sorries. For the record, I wouldn't want to be on the wrong end of a .40, however I feel about it. That is a very high-demand pistol, there was a time a couple years ago when they couldn't keep up with demand. I don't believe you will have any difficulty offing it.

Yup, I'm done with .40 also. 9mm ballistics have come a long way. I can shoot the 9mm better, I can reload it well, it's cheaper to reload, it carries more ammo, and some research a friend did shows .40 is intrinsically less accurate than 9mm (not like I'm a competitive shooter, but I can use all the help I can get). If that were a 9, I would already have sent my money. GLWS.

Easy-peasy.

Someone will get a kick out of it. Looks like a fun little machine, a throwback to the days when riding was a more simple affair.

Evidently.

Go back and read the list of stuff you're replacing.

Forks: Pre-2012 Kawasaki ZX14 (2012 and up ZX14R may work, I don't know if anything is different) Front Brakes: Matching ZX14 master cylinder, calipers, lines, and rotors Lower Triple Tree: Honda 929, with stem and bearings. The bearings are the same as the XX. The bearings on the 954 are the same size - I can't vouch for the stem length, though. An RC51 SP-1 lower may work better (bearings the same as the XX), but caveats on the stem length here as well. The radiator clearance may be improved with the 51's clamp arrangement. Upper Triple Tree: 2000-2001 Honda RC51 SP-1. I don't know why a 929 upper wouldn't work, and may work better. Check back after I ebay a cheap one. Wheels: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R front and rear. Rear Brakes: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R caliper, mount/bracket, and master cylinder. *Jury is still out on the MC* Sprocket: 2000-2005 Kawasaki ZX12R 45T (Supersprox #ISB-SWP-9516) NOTE THAT THIS IS FROM THE 12R not the 10R as most everything else rotating. Controls: Carbed bikes: 2000-2005 Honda Superhawk right side switch and throttle assembly (2pcs). You will use the XX cables. I'll explain in the narrative why, and try to explain the re-wire that needs to be done. FI Bikes: I took a look at Stan's ZXXX, and he used the stock throttle/switchgear. He made it work by using the cables from a carbed XX - they're long enough to make the difference. Bonus for FI conversions. Clip-ons: DanMoto 50mm fully adjustable clipons. Problem: If you don't want to raise your bars a lot, these won't work - if you try to lower them, there will be interference issues with the brake banjo bolt. Stan has some very nice alternatives, I'll ask him to post the source. I don't see why RC51 or 929 clip-ons wouldn't work - or virtually any 50mm clip-ons, for that matter. Front Fender: OSBODYKIT (ebay seller) Carbon Fiber 2006-2007 ZX10R fender. Just personal preference over the 14's fender. Or you can source a stock 10R fender. Of course, the 14 fender will bolt right up if you don't hate the looks. Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com brackets adapt the 10's fender to the 14's forks. $60 well spent for me, YMMV. *Rear Caliper Bolts: xxmm x dia x pitch allen head *Rear Caliper Spacers: xxmm x xx id x xx od aluminum round stock Everything just bolts on, no fabrication that I recall other than the rear caliper spacers. I'm guessing there will be an OEM part of some sort that can be utilized, the key is finding it once I have the dimensions down. I don't have dimensions for them right now as I haven't settled on a length yet. Ditto on the rear caliper bolts, as they will be dependent on the spacer length. Other than that, a minor rewire of the SuperHawk right switch assembly. Perhaps a more elegant solution for mounting the front brake MC reservoir as mine is simply zip-tied at the moment. I never "fixed" the lack of a steering stop, the steering is limited enough to be safe as it is and it doesn't annoy me. Should be da bomb with your extended swing arm, especially if you chrome it. FYI, doing the conversion and using ZX14 wheels and swing arm will extend your wheelbase by around 2" IIRC - and there are probably a lot more fancy ZX14 swing arms out there on eBay and such. That rear-end swap is outside of my experience, but there are other write-ups detailing the swing arm conversion.

Or you could go full retard and swap in a ZX14R front end with 954 or RC51SP2 triples/bearings. The 14's stock rotors do warp, so some Speiglers and the HH Extreme pads - stunning difference.