Toynut

I think you are refering to Meguiar's Tech Wax, which is available in a liquid or a soft paste wax. I use it and produces an absolutely fantastic "wet look" finish on clearcoat finishes. It is amazing stuff on dark colored vehicles like my '05 FJR (Galaxy Blue) or a black XX. http://www.meguiars.com/?paste-car-waxes/N...-Tech-Wax-Paste

If you have access to it, try to get a clay based detailing product like Clay Magic. http://www.clay-magic.com/ Meguires makes another good product, too. http://www.meguiars.com/estore/product_lis...lay§ionID=11201 It does a great job detailing the paint nibs and removes mucjh of the leftover spooge that is left on the panel without ruining the clearcoat (be gentle around the edge of your decals with any product). The paint will feel like a wet sheet of glass when you are finished. Then you can go and wax it to your hearts content! :icon_thumbsup:

This is a very logical way to go. Particularily if you incorporate a headlight modulator on your H7 for daytime riding (safety farkle) . I think that a blinking high beam coupled to an intense low beam light will easily do the trick :icon_shocked:, while avoiding unwanted police attention. You can always upgrade the stock H7 highbeam bulb to a brighter, whiter bulb to get a better match to your HID low beam element characterstics, too (Silverstars, PIAA, etc.). Note: HID in high beam aplications don't seem to tolerate or perform well in frequent high/low switching scenarios (short intervals between oncoming cars, urban riding). My HID automotive conversions have halogen high beam bulbs incorporated into the same housings for just that reason.

Para, would you be able to post some pics please , once the new mod is successful? I am not overly aggressive in the corners, but......I would certainly not want to grind off any parts of the bike that weren't meant to be (peg feelers...OK).

I finally got around to installing the brackets. They feel great! I was wondering if anyone has had any issues or remedy with the sidestand pushing up against the bracket? :icon_think:

Try Sport Bike Effects (great guy, btw) for the trick 90 degree valve stems. Type FJR1300 in the coupon code for 15% off! http://www.sportbikeeffects.com/products.a...t=8462&pg=4

Anytime that you will be demounting the tire (to install new stems) you should rebalance. It's not just the different weight of the stem, but largely the repositioning of the tire on the rim.

You didn't damage your undertail/fender/tire in this little mishap, did you? :icon_think:

swmototires.com I just bought two pairs of tires from them this month. Got them immediately, they ship the tires for free as long as you buy a pair, and since they ONLY sell tires, the rubber was all new and fresh manufacturer, which is something to think abought when buying tires. You wouldn't go to a sushi restaurant that did not have a high traffic flow , would you? http://arizonamoto.com/Merchant2/merchant....gory_Code=Storm

Yo had a very nice write up a few months back. :icon_clap: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=36059&hl= Unfortunately, the pics no longer display on the thread. Perhaps you can PM him to repost the directions with the pictures. :icon_pray:

Do you need to take into account the Ram Air effect on the airbox? :icon_think:

Bravo! :icon_clap: Is your brake fluid due for a change, yet?

I would be really nervous about applying heat to that area. The m/cyl paint/rubber seals/brake fluid do not take very kindly to heat. Get a well fitting wrench on the bolt and try tapping it firmly but not abusively with a heavy soft blow hammer. You will be replicating the actions of an impact socket (don't even think of an air gun). That may be just enough to "break" the bolt's hold. A touch of penetrating oil MIGHT help a bit. It's possible that the washers have also stuck between the bolt and m/cyl housing. Make sure that the clip on and the m/cyl housing are both tight. Don't forgrt to put a towel under it, in case you lose some fluid. If the fluid looks dark or you let some air into the system, be prepaired to bleed it, too!

OK, I ordered the SW top mount and Givi adapter today. I'll post up when this project is done(with the pics, naturally)!

The other question I have relates to the position of a Givi top case on the rack. A point for consideration is if the top case is too wide or mounted too far forward with a SWMotech rack, will it cause interference with the forward swinging beetle case "doors", so that you would have to remove the case to open the side cases?

I believe that their distribution model closely resembles a pyramid. Therefore, "dealer cost", is a relative term. Amway has a lot of "dealers" too!

I'm 6'0 (used to be when younger anyway), 32" inseam, with Heli's or Convertibars on and stock seat the Vario (set at the highest angle) lets the wind hit me around the middle of the shield and chin area of my Arai, with little or no buffeting till about 90 or so. You do need to wear earplugs for the wind noise but at least most of the windblast is directed over your shoulders, at a normal riding position (without ducking). I rode this last weekend in damp 40 degree weather and did find that I had to wear a neck gator to keep my neck and neckstrap area from freezing. It's a good piece but not perfect.

It looks good, but, I'm not sure if it will fit between the Corbin Beetle spacer studs or not. I would have to remove the grab bar (OK) at the very least, but I don't know if that would be sufficient. I was going to install a Wing Rack II that I recently bought, but I wasn't excited about the esthetics as well as relocating/swapping the rear indicator lights. The Beetles look pretty good (couldn't possibly make my ass look any bigger ) installed, just not super roomy. Anyone installed this combination (Beetles /SWMotech)?

I have just installed a set of beetle bags on my '03. They look to be spacious enough for around town storage, but, I would like to be able to mount a removable Givi or a piece of soft luggage for longer trips. I would need to find a tail bracket/rack to fit within the existing Corbin hardware or some other solution that would not damage the finish of the beetles(strapping a dufful across the top might damage the lids). I normally take my FJR or Vstrom for the longer trips (and carrying capacity), but would like to try the XX on occasion. Anyone have any ideas? :icon_think:

Ok I'm in for one. BTW if it helps the numbers, I would buy one for a DL1000 as well!

Bump!

Plan on putting a little oil in the spark plug holes, too. You might want to consider pluging the exhaust outlets on the cans as well as sealing up the induction side too. Don't forget to flush/refill your hydraulics with fresh fluid!

In Michigan terms, it's when most of the insects die! They must not like the white stuff covering everything (salt, snow, ice, generally in that order). That's when we get to play with our tracked vehicles (snowmobiles), and walk and fish through hard water (ice). When do your bugs and vermin die off (if ever)?

Everyone NEEDS at least one more winter project, eh?!

Just to keep the thread fresh, I'll opt for an extra one to make it an even dozen!