Toynut

The previous owner must have ridden the bike through some pretty tough stuff. I am concerned that the rust blisters are still low enough in the fork tubes that with my riding weight (and our Michigan roads) would tear up the seals in no time. I called GP suspension who suggested that I may need new fork tubes for them to do a revalve/spring/rebuild them.......,so......,here I am looking for a decent pair of forks! I had Traxxion Dynamics install AK20 cartridge kits on one of my other birds. They worked out pretty well, but, I still think that I would need a better surface finish to maintain good seal oil integrity on the tubes.

I need to buy a pair of clean (and straight) forks for an '02 bird that I just picked up. The ones on it have some rust/pitting at the top of the forks and will probably be too expensive to rebuild. I am trying to avoid a pair that has pitted or rusted tubes. Anyone have a stock pair (in good condition) left over from a fork conversion project?

I generally use a laser sprocket/chain aligner I purchased from Dennis Kirk. http://www.probike.co.uk/it110009.htm It's a great tool to use during chain adjustments/replacements or during tire changes. It will not tell me if the tires are tracking in line with each other, however. The Proaligner looked pretty interesting, so I ordered one, too. I guess you can't have many tools in one's collection.

I beleive that there is more to be gained in the handling department by raising the rear of the bike with a 6 mm shock spacer shim than shortening the wheelbase by 3/8 of an inch or so.

Just my 2 cents on my I observations with my Pyramid CF hugger. I have a little tire interference with my PP2 tires. Your PR2s should probably be similar in diameter and shape. However, if you have a bit of chain slack that you can take up with the chain adjuster, it would allow you to remove the rear tire a bit rearward, which may alleviate the interference. I also noticed that after installing an 18 tooth front sprocket on the bike (stock chain length) also created the tire interference, when I had to reposition the rear tire forward to allow for proper chain slack. I might consider adding a link or two to the overall chain length on the first chain and sprocket replacement, so that I can reset the axle centerline back to it's factory position.

DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based brake fluid which may cause the problems listed in the above mentioned posts. :icon_nono:

I just ordered a set of their stainless headers to hook up to my CF Blue Flame oval cans. I will post a report after the installation.

It was a design problem that was remedied in post 2003 engines. I stock +500 sets of FelPro improved-design intake gasket sets, that do remedy the problem in these engines, in my warehouses. You can probably expect to replace your fuel pump module in the near future, too. All of these design flaws are pretty much remedied in more current GM models.

I like gadgets and the colors just right.............it matches my pro oiler,the garmin, the radar detector, the air horn the wavy rotors, yadayada................ Why do anything manually when you can farkle it electronically?! Besides, the Tyre Dog will warn you to check your tire while you are on the road (should you pick up a nail) and lets you know your tire's temp (no hard charging corners till they warm up :icon_nono: ). FWIW, It will probably be factory mandated on future bike models, anyway. It's not going to replace a tire gauge or common pre-ride check procedures, it's just a little bit of extra insurance.

Not only can they boil, but they can also freeze in their natural collection points, which include the master cylinder bores, junction blocks, metering valves, or low points in the brake circuit and such. The fact that Silicone fluid does not mix with moisture can create these problems, even though it maintains a very high boiling point (+500 degrees). In addition, silicone fluid is somewhat compressible and will lead to a "spongy" feel in the brake circuit (which is totally unacceptable in ABS applications). Racers used to use it in certain applications, but, it was typically changed very frequently during the race season. It is never used in snowmobile competition or other subfreezing applications (aircraft systems).

Brake fluid is designed to be miscible in water and self-sacrifice some of it's properties (notably it's boiling point is lowered) as it is absorbs moisture. However, it still retains it lubricity as it absorbs water until it reaches it's saturation point. That's why it still needs to be flushed regularly. The new DOT 5.1 fluids (Wagner, Raybestos, Motul,etc.) give you an even greater margin of safety and performance. http://www.federal-mogul.com/en/Aftermarke...ingBrakeFluids/

Brake fluid is hygroscopic (water loving) and absorbs moisture in the system which typically permeates through the seals and various vent holes and gasket sealing surfaces. This acts to preserve the internal components of your hydraulic circuit. The boiling point of brake fluid is much higher than that of ATF (which starts to cook at about 260-300 degrees). The viscosity of brake fluid in colder temperatures is generally more stable and consistent than ATF as well. While you might get away with it in your clutch circuit (not sure for how long, though), I would strongly discourage it in your brake circuit. In addition, the clutch circuit is specified for a specific viscosity of fluid, cold temps may hamper the pressure release/disengagement of the clutch piston which may lead to increased clutch wear. BTW, some hydraulic seals are incompatible with ATF and will eventually swell and dissolve over time!

Traxxion Dynamics fork kits will provide the adjustability you are looking for. http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_id=AK-20

The brake lever procedure is the only one that is not as immediately obvious. As stated above, while you can reindex the shift lever on it's splines, the brake lever is limited in it's adjustment by a squared threaded section on the activation rod. Once you follow the procedure stated above to remove the lever, you will have to trim about 1/4 to 3/8" off of the squared of section of the threaded push rod. Now you can reinstall the brake pedal arm to a lower position (where you want it). This will cause the brake light activation spring to be pulled to the on position all the time. To remedy that you will have to screw the plastic brake light switch housing downward till the brake light comes off. Then test the brake lever and make sure the tail/brake lights activate properly.

Good to hear about a job well done. :icon_thumbsup:

Make sure you get as much crud off of the pistons BEFORE you push them back in their bores ( It will go a long way in prolonging the life of your caliper seals). A shop rag and soft nylon brush with some solvent helps. Brake cleaner is generally safe for rubber seals as it is designed to be used around wheel cylinders and calipers. I do not recommend it for o or x ring chains, however, as the solvent will dramatically thin out the chain grease inside the rollers and seals. Clean all of the slides, fasteners, and contact surfaces thoroughly, too.

Any problem opening the beetle bag lids with the top box on? Which top box are you using a v46 or a maxia 52? Finally, Do you feel that extending the bolt lengths with the spacers can potentially lead to an over-stress situation and shear off the mounting bolts or tear the threads off of the subframe?

Here you go: http://www.ixxra.com/yosbleedingthebrakes.htm This might be worthwhile posting in the reference section!

I was asked to post the recipe for my mother's chocolate roll that I had brought to NEXXT to pass around. A couple of members were discussing all of the recipes that are frequently posted on this forum. Eventually, a common idea began to form.......... :icon_think: Wouldn't it be great if they can find them all in one section (perhaps by type i.e. dessert, stews, barbeque, marinades, etc.) for quick meal ideas? Who knows? You may get enough contributors to publish an XX cookbook sometime in the future?

Some of the battery tenders do a lousy job keeping an AGM battery topped up. You may also need one that is temperature compensating if it is in a cold garage. You might be able to bring a stone dead battery back to life if you have an Optimate charger. http://www.optimate3.com/classic/ Here is how it's done: http://www.optimate3.com/classic/recovery.pdf

This stand makes it a breeze to change the front tire/pads remove the forks/replace stem bearings. You can also use it to lift the rear of your bike if necessary. Here is a link: http://www.cbrxx.com/general-cbr-xx-discus...-your-bike.html

Here is a link to making an inexpensive front end stand for the bike. You can also use it to hold up the rear of the bike as well. http://www.cbrxx.com/general-cbr-xx-discus...-your-bike.html

Uummmhh........................ Why don't you use a nice, soft, microfiber towel instead! Don't forget to put in a half a can of Sea Foam in the tank, too.

I would also suggest you degrunge the pistons prior to pushing them back into the bores. The accumulated crud around the exposed piston surface is pretty hard on the caliper seals and the dust seals. You can use a soft nylon brush and some rubber- safe solvent to get the majority of the surfaces clean.

Update PM sent to all members with pending order. Please PM me if you did not receive an update. Thanks, Al