Redbird

Let's see, I need a proper "Dave type" response for this... :idea: ..I've got it- If it's up your ass it'll spin :grin: :grin: Where's the "no" vote, anyway?

I'm going to be doing my chain soon (first time on this bike) - those of you who already have, did you you replace the front sprocket? My rear is good to go, but I can't see the front without taking it apart. So my question is this- what kind of condition did you guys find the front in when you did the chain, and should I just go ahead and order one when I get the chain? Thanks

Cheers to you, Phil! :grin: Sounds worse than it is. You can do it in a day no problem, assuming you've bought a ready made kit. Well worth the effort.

That works great until the damper rod starts turning with the bolt, which seems to happen about half the time in my experience (yes, even with the spring in and the fork compressed ). If the damper rod starts spinning, you're gonna need an impact wrench. If you've got one, cool, if you don't, you may not want to start down that road. Just my $.02 :grin:

Yes, several guys here, including myself, have de-linked Remove all the bodywork, including the gas tank. Pull out the 15 miles of lines, valves, slave cylinders and such that is the stock system. Install the bracket on the front fork that replaces the slave cylinder, install and bleed the six lines that make up the new system. And replacing the front master cylinder with a larger bore unit is optional, I did it, and I believe everyone here who has de-linked has found this nessecary. Some say it ain't, to each his own. Theoretically, yes, nothing is damaged removing the stock system, just don't ask me to help you bleed 'em if you decide put it back on.......... :razz:

Totally agree, setting the sag properly front and back will help alot. I'm about 220lbs, I added a turn and a half in back, and went with Racetech 1.0 front springs with approx. 120mm spacers for just over 30mm sag front and back. My tires are worn to the edges, most I've ever touched down is the peg feelers, and that rarely.

It's 12mm, really, I'm sure :grin:

22mm of preload? I've got almost 120mm in mine with the racetech springs (no valves, but I cant' see that making a difference on preload). Also, I believe racetech recommends 5w for use with their valves.

Also keep in mind with the better pads out front, you'll be getting more front brake than you would with the stock setup when you hit the rear. Not an issue if you leave the rear pedal alone, I suppose, but there are instances where that might make you life a little more, um..interesting. The LBS in stock form is pretty well balanced, I'd tend toward leaving it alone rather than trying to "tune" it.

I've done it, and like it a lot better. I was never a fan, because unlike ABS, the LBS does nothing a competent rider can't do themselves. If I want back brake, I know where the frickin' pedal is, same for the front. With the new master cylinder I ended up around $500 dollars poorer, but I've spent more money on stupider things. I'd do it again.

www.321ignition.co.uk Seb's the guy to talk to. I paid around $440, with a matching clutch line (the kit includes all new braided brake lines), but it was on sale at the time, so check their site for current pricing. I was told that most people are fine with the stock master (1/2" bore). I put close to 2000 miles on ot that way and respectfully disagree. The brakes worked fine, but they were mushy and had very little feel. Joe (rockmeupto125) helped me source a 5/8" bore master cylinder that's almost indentical to stock. I had the part #, but it was saved in a PM on the old board. I got the # from xrdracer, maybe he'll show up and help out (again )

The back is hydraulically linked to the front, there's no slave cylinder back there, you'd have to remove or block off the hydraulic line :sad: . That's why a purpose made de-linking kit is the way to go, IMO, if you're going to do it. My front lever now gives me all six up front, no back. If you try rigging it like we're talking about, just see if you like it any better, then drop the $$ on de-linking if you do. I'm happy I did it :grin:

Great minds think alike :grin: I posted an idea like that over a year ago, and got jumped on for it :???: . I was thinking you could split a piece of pipe of just the right length and diameter, and use hose clamps to hold it on between the lower mount and the outside of the slave cylinder on the front fork. This would keep the whole caliper assembly from moving, just like you're thinking, Randy. Downside is you only get four of the six pistons up front with the front lever, and you'd still be linked back to front. It'd help with the back end's tendency to get a little squirrely when hard on the front, but it'd do nothing for potential back to front lock-up situations such as Jimkazi's incident recently. It was, in my mind, more of a "let's see how I like this" than an actual attempt at de-linking.

Todd, I gotta ask- What's the bike doing in the house when you've got such a nice garage? (I've seen the pics :grin: ) Not that I see a problem with a bike in the living room, just curious.

According to my manual- Remove the upper cowl covers Remove headlight bulb connectors remove dust cover Unhook the bulb retainer and remove the headlight bulb/socket Nothing about removing any screws. Those clips seem impossible until you understand how the work, then it's child's play. That little wire retainer swings out of the way....hard to describe, wish i could draw a picture... Anyway, messing with the screws isn't neccesary, go to work on those retainers, when the first one goes, all becomes clear. Don't know if that helped, but there you go. Keep in mind Nik did this without help, so it can't be that hard :poke:

I didn't have to unscrew anything on my '01. That little retainer clip just swings out of the way after unclipping it from one side, then it's twist and pull, if I remember correctly. I'll dig up my manual and see what it says. Either way, it is a tight fit for big manly hands, like I'm sure you have, even just unclipping them....... "I've got woman's hands"- who remembers that? :grin:

That's "normal" for this bike. Most blame the linked brakes. The left caliper moves when you activate the front brake, causing the uneven wear (that's the popular theory, anyway). Nothing to worry about.

You can also grab the bar way out by the bar end when you're in traffic. Leverage is way better out at the end of the lever, use it to your advantage.

If it's like the FI models, just give it a tug backwards after lifting the rear. Little rubber mouted tongue thingy is all that holds the front down on my 2001.

I totally agree with North on that one, that's why I jack it up under the oil pan. Seems way more stable to me, though still enough to make a guy a little nervous at first. Am I the only one using the oil pan?

Yeah, what he said. Just your basic non-polished "standard" size Throttlemeister. I suppose we're only talking 12-14 dollars difference after you take shipping out of what I paid, but it's still kinda annoying. Oh well, life goes on.............

Fuckers. I paid $138 w/shipping, direct from Throttlemeister :sad: They having a sale or something, or did they just decide to screw me?

Regulator/rectifier. Where's your's, Joe?

Maybe it's just me, but I'll stick with grip glue from here on out. Come to think of it, I (I mean "my friend" :razz: ) didn't use Aquanet specifically, so the difference may be in the brand. Just my $.02

Don't get much rain out that way, Carlos? Oh, yeah, you live in the middle of the desert..... :razz: Hairspray works great, until it gets wet and turns back into that slimey shit that made it so easy to put the grips on. At that point they'll be free to slip and slide all over the place, it can be entertaining if it's not you it's happening to. Don't ask me how I know this............. :roll: