xrdracer

But you know, this is good excuse to go out and get a digital camera this weekend. Any recommendations for a REALLY CHEAP one, like $100 or less ? I don't need all the bells and whistles, just take a friggin pic and down load. I already have Pentax and Nikon film units. Howierd

Well Guys, I live in San Jose. Just 60-70 miles from Monterey. I have a couple of rooms already and got my Flagroom tickets, but we could meet at my place and dump excess gear. I'll be taking the truck down :cry: , as my daughter will be going with me to the races all three days..she loves 'em :grin: ....Howie

Anytime mate....not a problem and enjoy meeting people on the board...and as a side note....$5824.93 to fix my bike ! OOoooo, I think I see a TSR Superbike s/arm in the horizon

I have Akra slip-ons mated to a Jap header system. I thought the Akra welds were beautiful till I saw the Jap welds. On a scale of 10 the Akra welds are a 9, Jap welds a 10+

Yep, got the solid-state flasher on my bike. It is from Libertek. it is not cheap, about $45 shipped, but it goes on without cutting wires and can be removed and put on a different bike. Also, the flasher rate is adjustable. The unit is about the size of a silver dollar and is made with an anodized aluminum housing. Howie

So imagine if you take about 5 pounds off the front wheel and about 12 off the rear by getting some nice Marvics , Marchesinis, Dymags...

Wheels will make the biggest performance gain for your dollar. Lighter wheels, less UNSPRUNG wieght, quicker accelleration/stopping/quicker turn-in, will actually see a hp gain on a dyno (slight but a gain), the forged wheels are stronger, run truer. Cast wheels are the cheapest wheel the OEMs can put on other than a spoke.

Nope, got black...all the other appliances are black. The kitchen is all black and white. Joe, I have no freekin clue if there were or are problems. I figure, if it craps out in a year they fix it for free. And then there is a n additional 5 year coverage for some BS, but the O.L. is the one who handled it all. I didn't even want to hassle with a new fridge. hell, the one we have is only 5 years old. And I promise to get some pics of the bike out there...but not until the wheels are on...Howie

Went with the Amana 25 cft. bottom freezer unit

Well I just got done putting on the Brembo front caliper conversion...fucking awsome brakes. The brakes were really good before with the delink, wave rotors, -3 s.s lines, bigger master and HH pads. But now it is two fingers at ANY speed the bike will generate to squeal the front tire. SO that is mod #1....next is a set of wheels....the O.L. wants a new fridge..so I made a deal...you get a fridge, I get some some wheels. She fell for it. So now I am waiting to hear back from Marchesini and Marvic (the MAR in Marvic is the same guy who started up Marchesini). Thinking of the forged, fully machined aluminum items in an anodized gold from Marchesini or the cast magnesium in powder coat gold from Marvic (can't afford the forged magnesium items...damn). Once those are on ( I estimate 8-10 weeks for delivery) on goes the Brembo rear caliper under the swingarm conversion....then if I can just talk my connection at TSR to loan me one of the XX Superbike swingarms to show around (yea, right !).....Howie

I use the inexpensive($50-?) 6 foot level method. A bit time consuming to get it spot on, but I got my wheels within 2mm of alignment. Howie

Why are you guys worrying about heavy spots and balancing ? Do it right the first time ! Mount them up, and spin balance them on a Snap-on or other bike spin balance machine. The spin balancing will indicate heavy spots and you can rotate the tire accordinly if desired. Any reputable shop should have a spin balancer.

I like Akrapovics. Had them on for 2 years and not one issue. Quality, workmanship etc. is second to none. Look at the welds, quality of material etc. Howie

Will do a simple review with pics added on photoisland.com. But first I have to get the pipes and have the connector pipes modified to mate to my Akra cans. Then, hopefully Dan Kyle will remap my PCII as he remapped it for the slip-on Akras. By the way, this set up will allow for oil filter access and centerstand retention. I like the Akra Carbon/Ti cans on my 01 red Bird, but want to drop a few more pounds and add some top-end hp that is why I am going through this mess of modding the TSR connector pipes.

Joe, 3 bills isn't cheap, but the quality and workmanship is such that it would not be out of place on a WSB or GP machine. ALL of TSRs items are that way. I am getting one of their full 4-2 Ti pipes to mate to my Akra cans and I thought the welding on my Akra pipes was good till I saw what the TSR welds look like. Ask Alpha what the quality level is, as he hasseen the TSR items on my Bird. You get what you pay for ! Howie

Another fix would be to install a Libertek solid state turn signal relay. They are adjustable from 1-6 blinks a second and require about 5 minutes of your time to install (remove the OEM relay and 3 wires to splice into the wires going to the OEM relay) . They are bit expensive but you can always keep it when you sell the bike and use it one your next ride. I installed one on my Bird and am very pleased with the unit.

Get yourself a 6' level and align the wheels that way. Never trust the chain adjusters. The level methos IS A PAIN IN THE ASS ! But, you will know that the wheels are in correct alignment. Howie

well, I got two replies, one from Ohlins and the other from Harris Performance and they both said the same thing. The 639 shock and the 207 shock are basically the same thing. The 207 is different at the top of the shock only for mounting perposes,( different hoses and position of hoses). There are some internal differences but they are not performance related (shaft 3mm longer, longer shaft jet to accomodate the longer shaft etc.) The shim stacks are all the same regardless of iteration of shock. Now there are 3 different 639 shocks.... there is a fourth number after 639. that number tells you the series of the shock. a "0" is the first iteration all the way to a "3" which is the last iteration. The "3" iteration is identical to the 207 in every spec but for mounting. So in a nut shell, the differences are only for mounting purposes. A 207 will fit a 2000 and earlier and vise versa Howie

I have emails going out to Ohlins, Harris, and another source to find out what the diff. may be. I have an Ohlins HO639 on my XX...should have kept the Penske..it's a better built shock. Howie

Well, Seb may have found that to be the case with the bike he has bled, but on my Bird I needed the new 5/8" master. And I bled my brakes with a Snap-on power bleeder hooked up to my compressor originally. That is why I recommend the bigger master. Also, I was after the same lever travel and feel I got from my old superbike brakes.

Why not get in contact with someone from the German XX board or the U.K. board and pursue it that way ?

Oh no, it is not a seat cover. It replaces the entire stock seat assy. You have two parts to it. 1) the riders seat unit 2) the rear cowl The cowl bolts to the seat which then replaces the entire stock seat. So there is NOT a pillion seat. It goes on and off just like the stocker though.

Did you see the pics of my HS-1 unit at photoisland.com? For particulars I can say it was a royal pain in the ass to get. But hear you go... The maker is HS-1 or Haungs out of Germany. The wait was...get this...almost 7 months !!! And, they WILL NOT SELL OR SHIP TO THE U.S. !!!! So you'll have to go through someone in GErmany. I have already talked to my contacts in the U.K. and Germany to get them shipped over and they said "sorry", to much red tape, etc. Cost is in Euros on the web page, about $325+ , but that doesn't include VAT (tax), shipping and any import duties if the U.S. agency asks for them or any fees impose by your bank for wire transfers of funds etc. In all it will run about $400 or so as an estimate. The unit is the seat AND the cowl. The seat foam is cut 30mm to give more of a dish, and firmer to give excellent support, but is pretty hard compared to the stock seat. The seat is covered in a vinyl that has the look of a leather grain in your choice of colors. The seat base is I believe either a hard plastic or thick fiberglass ( would have to go and see to verify- I just don't recall at the moment)The cowl is made of hand laminated fiberglass and is pretty thick. It bolts to the seat to make it one solid unit. It mounts to the bike just like the stock seat utilizing the standard locking mechanism etc. I had the cowl painted to match my bike by HS-1 for a small additional cost and it came out perfect. The quality is outstanding. All hardware to mount and bolt together the unit is of high quality and included. I'm sorry but I can't help you get one. Wish I could...could sell quite a few, but as I have found from previous experience importing Euro parts to the States, most people don't really want to pay top dollar for top quality items. Howie

The reason the part numbers are different is the shading at the bottom. If you look at an '01 versus and '02 you'll see a slight difference in color, more of a bronze on the '02, more black on the '01

If you still need the part numbers for the stuff just shoot me a PM. Once you have the #s Email Toru at: toruf@tsrjp.com He will take care of you. The m/c he sends looks like it belongs on the XX, but is actually from the Japan CB400F. I've been helping everyone with this stuff. You can see pics of my de-linked set-up at: photoisland.com, u/n: xrdracer, p/w: sydiebit31795 Howie