xrdracer

Just buy the damn things new from David Silver Spares and quit wasting your time looking for used crap. They aren't that expensive last time looked.

Yes that means 2005 That's the way I had it figured. Came from Mr Tfi so I figured maybe it came off a European bike. Anywho...it's not doing me much good. Do you still have the sub-frame ? Is it straight ? I do not want one that has been straightened or is even the slightest bit bent. I live in California, so what will you take for it shipped ?...Howie Yes, I still have the subframe. I checked it with a level and it looks perfectly straight to me. FWIW, it's very easy to bend the tail light end of the subframe with your bare hands, which is why they're easy to bend back if they aren't out of level too much. I paid $70 for it shipped and that's what I want for it since I'm paying twice for shipping. I neutralized the rust (light) with ospho and I'd recommend some light sanding before painting it - which I would have done if I wanted to keep it. I think new subframes are about $150 so if you're handy with a spray can, you'll save a lot of money. Randy Randy, Still have the subframe ? $70 shipped, correct ? Howie

Yes that means 2005 That's the way I had it figured. Came from Mr Tfi so I figured maybe it came off a European bike. Anywho...it's not doing me much good. Do you still have the sub-frame ? Is it straight ? I do not want one that has been straightened or is even the slightest bit bent. I live in California, so what will you take for it shipped ?...Howie

I find them to actually be distracting and a bit bright.

You may find something that "bolts-on" to the XX mount locations, however, you run into the issue of all the subcomponents (brake pedal, rear master actuation rod, shifter and linkage) needing to be properly aligned.

I also tried a superbrace, in fact three, none of them fitted properly, encountered high stiction. Many people may not even be aware of the stiction the brace induces. Unless you aretruely pushing the front end very hard, you don't really need a brace. If you must, then it MUST have the adjustable span section for proper alignment.

I have what you are looking for.....let me go home and check it out tonight.....it is from my bike Joe, as an FYI, I am offing just about all my OE stuff and some of the TSR stuff I don't use now that the Bird is basically done...just finished the Brembo masters for the clutch and brake, the new one-off TSR foot controls and new can hanger....H

The frame and fork bracket look like Hyper-Pro units. However, the damper clamp that grips the damper body is WP. The WP unit is, in my opinion, a superior unit than the Hyper-Pro and on a level with Ohlins. But, that is only my opinion....H

Hyper-Pro had all kinds of problems with the early reactive dampers. basically they leaked after just nominal use. I got the one I originally purchased re-sealed/rebuilt and have another new in the box. Also, as I previously said, I have the gas charged non reactive unit also. The older recative units I have have thicker shafts with longer bodies than the new units Hyper-Pro sells.

I keep either of the dampers on click "2" or "3", so that there is virtually no resistance to bar feel/movement. I only want the damper to control the sloppyness of a wobble. I have an SP-1 front end on my bike with special top and bottom clamps from Japan which shortened the wheelbase and gave me less trail, plus a special rear shock linkage that raised the back about 2 inches, so I can't really comment on a "stock" set up, but I can't tell a difference between the two. Joe, My reactive dampers are older 120mm stroke units, no longer available.

Looks just like a regular 96-98 mounted unit from the saddle. Only diff is my frame bracket is cut and welded to fit and the bolt-on fairing lug is turned down so the frame bracket top mounting "sleeve" can fit over it. Also, my frame bracket sits just a tad higher and required a bigger hole in the l/h top cover.

I have the "reactive" damper on my XX, but it is an early "'01" kit, and I had to modify the bracket to make it work. My XX was the "test mule" for the damper and mount here in the US. Up until I purchased my Hyper-Pro unit, everyone thought all the Hyper-Pro units would work on all the differnet year XX's. I was lucky enough to get an extra reactive damper and also a new gas charged non-reactive unit...H

I for one do not recommend changing exhaust system pipe dimensions. To have the proper scavenging effects to pull the exhaust out of the head and the proper back pressure etc. takes alot of R&D. Any changing of these dims will result in less power produced. It may sound "better" and give the impression of more power, but in reality it will produce less power.

Contact TAW Vehicle Concepts in Colorado and get some one-piece bolt on 90 degree stems made in Italy for Marchesini wheels. Don't mess around with a multi part unit. The more mating surfaces you have, the greater the chance for a leak.

Those are probably nothing more than threaded stock which is not designed to accept torsional loads. If you were smart, get a link of the proper length made that you want with matching side plates....but wait, that would require real engineering...not what you see in the parts you have that broke. Sorry, but I think you will be SOL....

Renthal or AFAM in hard anodized aluminum. The quality is worth the few extra $$

I may be wrong, but after just reading my OEM Honda manual, you are not syncing the butterflyies, you are syncing the idle and low speed circuits/plungers. There appears to be NO butterfly adjustment.

The thing to do is NOT mess around with off-setting the wheel or anything else. I am running a 6" rear wheel with a 190 tire and the chain clears by 3/8" or so. If you must go wider on the wheel and tire, get an off-set front sprocket, but remember, you will need to make sure rear sprocket is in-line with the front sprocket.

Add a TSR rear shock linkage and throw away the 6mm spacer, change the spring on the shock to something around 700-800 pounds,depending on your weight and it will handle WAAAAY better, however, you will be comprimising 2 up riding.

Running the M3 on the front and Z6 in the rear. Can feel the front dig in and the back can spin up if pushed reeeeeeeeeal hard while cranked over but for 95% of the time a great combo.

You never put it on, did you? No, I did install it. It had been on my bike for about 1 year/4k miles. Prior to that I was using the Akra slip-ons, which is where the Akra cans came from. Now I am using a full Ti TSR 4-2-1 limited production unit. As an FYI, the TSR connector pipes from the collector to the can, are 54mm OD and the Akra cans are 52mm ID, so I had the connector pipes sleeved down to 52mm OD using the same Ti tubing from TSR. ..Howie

I have one actually. It is from Japan. Made by TSR (Technical Sports Racing), a company that raced the XX in road racing in their Formula X class (now discontinued). The headers are Ti, the collector is stainless with Ti pipes from the collector to the cans. The system I have is the TSR headers, collector, connector pipes with beautiful full carbon/Ti Akrapovic cans. Centerstand, oil filter access is retained. If interested PM me. The system is in perfect shape. I can email pics. Howie

The damper for the Bird that Hyper-Pro has, fits only the pre-2oo1K birds. I know, because I am the person who found out for them and worked with Hyper-Pro USA and Holland on this. if your bike is newer than that, the frame bracket can be modified to fit. Howie Good to know - my bird is a 97 - should fit just fine ... are there any tricks or tips to getting it mounted?? Just follow the directions...Howie

The damper for the Bird that Hyper-Pro has, fits only the pre-2oo1K birds. I know, because I am the person who found out for them and worked with Hyper-Pro USA and Holland on this. if your bike is newer than that, the frame bracket can be modified to fit. Howie

I use Castrol Chain Wax. Came out on top in just about every catagory in the chain lube comparo test in RIDE mag. If you lube your chain after a ride while the chain is still warm, then wrap a rag around the chain and slowly spin the back wheel while holding the rag snug/closely around the chain, it will remove mose of the excess lube. Then let the lube set up overnight....bingo minimal fling...