sykotek-xx

So you know, it lasts about 10 miles escorting a bike-a-thon (lights, blinkers, radiator fan, low engine RPM) before it will not restart a parked bike. :icon_wall:

Buy HID's.

Strange, I have both beams done and the high beam definitely does not point down. It lights up everything from the road to about 20' up the trees. The low beam cutoff still stays level straight out, hitting about 3/4 up the trunk of most cars. Never get flashed unless I leave the bright one on.

If there is any reason for delinking my XX, this is it. Thanks for the write up though!

lookie ova hear: http://www.omsracing.co.uk/Products.htm

nice bike

87, all day every day.

Makes sense. Much better now, though the whole ride in to work last night I thought my bike stalled every time I pulled in the clutch to stop. Amazing how much less noise and vibraion there is at 900-1000 versus 1200-1300.

Knob is down by frame on the left side when your sitting on the bike. Mine idles the same as yours BTW, cold start up 1200-1400 then just before it hits normal temps (80C for me...) it drops down 1000 maybe a little less, as temp climbs it goes back up to 1100 maybe a bit higher... Found it, Back down at 1000 now. Thanks.

No it's defeinitely faster and I'm getting 55mpg now. Don't bring me down man. I plan on getting a PCIII and a pipe sometime down the road, and with a dyno shop in town, I figured I'd get the crap out of the way so I'd get good A/F readings whenever I get there.

Was back under there today. Plates and bores are clean. Throttle snaps all the way shut. No binding. Might be about 1100 on the tach, so maybe I'm OK. Shovelstroke, is that knob on FI bikes? I don't remember seeing it on mine.

I know, but I had no rubber caps, however I did have a torch, a bandsaw, a belt sander and some brazing sticks. Plus with the nipples still attached, I understand that they have to be removed to take the valve cover off. The valve cover should clear the frame OK now with the modified manifolds still attached. Plus I was bored and everyone needs a hobby. Plus it looks cool.

Funny because the kid decided to 'help' me put it back together by dropping a bolt in one. Thank god for the butterfly. I often wonder that myself. And it wasn't that much work, you're just jealous of my new bling.

Took the tank off today for a little together time and decided to axe the pair system. Here's what I did. 1. Remove the PAIR manifolds. Also removed the hoses and the valve. One down in the pic, one to go. 2. Used a band saw to remove the nipples from the manifolds and the belt sander to level them out flat. 3. Used a propane torch and an aluminum welding/soldering rod to fill in the holes. I made sure there was a lot of surface area on the solder and also roughened the inside of the manifild a little with sandpaper. 4. After another trip to the belt sander to flatten out the solder in the hole, next we painted them up, all the while with the assistance of my little helper. 5. Reinstalled. Much cleaner. Runs fine, and no FI light or other bad behavior with the PAIR valve unplugged. Another fun day in the garage.

Yeah I get this a lot.

Yeah the best part of having to change my wife's brakes all the time in her cars is the look on her face when she first backs out the driveway and the brake pedal goes to the floor a few times.

I noticed something my last few times out, incluidng tonight on the way to work. Honestly not sure if it is someting new or not, but I think it is. At cold startup, bike idles at about 1200-1400 or so until it heats up then drops down to somewhere near 800-1000. However, after a bit of riding, when I stop at a light or whatever, the idle is back up around 1200-1300. Linkage is fine, had the tank and airbox off to fix the sticking problem I had with the cruise control cable and checked it out. It is consistent, in that it idles high during warmup, then drops down when it gets to operating temp, then idles high again once it's ridden a bit. Anyone know the stock idle spec for an '03 so I don't have to dig thru the manual? Is 1200R out of spec?

Byrd, you remember exactly what stripper it was?

Weird problem. Perhaps you are missing some of the ductwork on your 97, and it is causing some weird turbulence that is starving the airbox at speed. On the 97-98, the front ducts force air through the oil cooler. They should have nothing to do with induction or your airbox. On 99 and up, they are a sealed ram air system that go directly to the airbox.

When you tilted it, you splashed some into the overfill or vent hose. When returned to level it stopped. My guess. I think my vent hose went somewhere, but I also think I have a CALI bike.

Rightey Tightey Lefty Loosey.

Tire's cupped. Can't believe I was the first to figure it out.

Being that they're air horns, and will be operated in short bursts few and far between (right??), I would not worry too much about that 40A relay. You should be fine. If it was a pair of 200W KC driving lights pulling a constant 400 watts all the time, that's a completely different story.

Bumpety bump, read the new note on the first post.

I instlled two 12V plugs I found at walmart under the dash cluster, attached them with four bolts each to the plastic cowling. You can see them here, one is closed and one has the GPS plugged into it. I hard wired my sirius right to the battery since it uses 12v. I have another 12v adapter for it to use when I take it in the car or truck.