sykotek-xx

That sounds about right. Good luck.

I did mine. I don't remember exactly, but I know that I removed the rubber extender leaving only the plastic signal. I was then able to use the bolt that holds the signal to the rubber stalk to mound the shortened signal directly to the plastic fender. It no longer has the little tab or whatever that keeps them from spinning, so what I did was put a tiny amount of silicone under the signal and tightened it down as tight as I could. Never moved and looks much better.

Next time, leave the fairings on. Lay on the ground next to the bike and you can reach up and get the filter with all the plastic in place. If it's stuck, there is room to drive a screwdriver into it to get it to pop loose then spin it off the rest of the way by hand.

That makes more sense then. By the way, like I mentioned, I have almost 4000 miles now and I can still read some of the shallow lettering that was molded into the tread. I'm expecting at least the mileage I got from the stock Dunlops which was 8640 before there was no tread in the center 2 inches (no exposed blets though). I do not know what thay guy on the FJR could have possibly done in 2200 miles to do that to the tires he has.

Got them. Love them. Sport attack front and road attack rear. About 4000 miles on the so far, huge handling improvement over the stock dunlops and they are wearing much better too, no flat spot and I do a ton of highway. 42psi, checked about every 3-4 weeks. Didn't notice anything that Warchild was ranting about, including the sidewalls. I installed mine myself and definitely needed the irons. Handling has been dead solid. I have them completely chicken-stripless and they have never stepped out, the factory dunlops slid on me quite a few times. Love these tires. Tread pattern looks cool as hell too.

Jeremy (RedJ) seels a sweet kit to block off the pair valves. Or you can do this: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=34252 Or you can just remove the hoses, unplug the valve and cap off the manifolds.

I just did my bike. (heh). I have a vacuum line that is tee'd into all four throttle bodies and operates my cruise control. Once I warmed the bike up to full temp, I disconnected the vacuum line at the cruise solenoid and stuck the end of the hose in the can of seafoam. I started the bike and held about 4000rpm until the can was 1/2 empty (it will want to stall). Warning, it smokes like nothing you have ever seen before. I'm talking about solid, thick, cumulus-looking clouds that will completely obscure your neighborhood for at least 1/4 square block. Once the 1/2 can is in thru the vacuum line, I hit the kill switch and let that sit for about 15 minutes. Dump the other 1/2 of the can in the gas tank. After the 15 minutes, start it up and drive the rest of the seafoam out. It smokes like a motherfucker for about 10 miles of 6,000 rpm cruising. You get funny looks and maybe a ticket if you're in the wrong place. I have 12,000 miles on the bike, and like I've heard others say, you don't know what you're missing till you get it back. The bike feels awesome, definite improvement in part throttle response and smoothness. Seafoam is the shit.

Dude, I just realized something. You have a 97' XX right ?? If you do, it's going to get a bit more complex. Your bike is carbed , not injected. You shouldn't be doing a dry shot on a carbed bike. You'll need to do a wet kit with fogger nozzles (4). The plumbing gets a lot more involved when you go that route. You'll need a small fuel pump, a fuel pressure safety switch, a arming switch and a hit switch, and a few other little things. Being that my bike is an 01' , I can use a dry shot safely up 30 hp. The AIT sensor will see the instantly cold air charge ( when on the spray ) and will richen up the mixture. I can also adjust the map on my PCIII so as between 7K-11K , it can run a given percentage more rich to compensate. + 1 on that , no dry noz on carbed models less you want to look for a new motor afterwards!!! If you are injecting in the intake tubes below the TB's like was posted earlier, the AIT has no idea what you are doing since it is in the airbox and you would be injecting the gas downstream. If you are ported into the airbox you should be OK but I would not rely on the AIT alone to richen up the mixture. The NOS kits I've installed on my FI vehicles all had a separate fuel solenoid that tapped off the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Dry kit is just that, dry, don't bank on sufficient enrichment.

Crazy glue, cyanoacryalate. You'll have to cut the fucker off. Get the gel kind, put it on the threads, then tighten it down fast. That will be the last time it ever moves independent of the bolt, guarenteed.

150 shot should wake it right up.

OK so I'm not going to paint it. Any ideas for some kind of farkle? Preferably illuminated?

Sadly, it's actually not. That shit sticks worse than dried snot.

I'm such a bad daddy......

Personally I think Honda did it intentionally. Think about it. If the ODO is right, there shouled be absolutely no reason, especially on a digital dash, that the speedo would be wrong unless it was intentionally programmed that way. Every asian-born bike I have owned has had an optimistic speedo, and I have owned six so far. I've always thought it was for a psycological factor, to keep you moving a little slower. FWIW, every H-D that my dad has owned and I have ridden has been dead on. It's a mystery. Oddly, on my XX, the speedo is off by the typical 8-9%, however my odometer also reads high by just under 4%, according to my GPS.

I ditched my Sirius radio. As much as I love Stern, and the commercial free music, I was still having reception issues especially in incliment weather, and I could no longer stomach the $240/year for the 2 recievers. So bye bye. I had used some silicone to adhere the antenna to the tail cowl. Popped the antenna off and the silicone remained. Tried peeling it of, no go. Tried rubbing the shit out of it to get it to ball up and come off that way, no go. So I carefully took a utility knife blade (minus the knife) and 'shaved' it off. This still left a paper thin layer of silicone. It's not coming off. Now, I've posted a bunch of times how I wish my bird was red. I'm thinking winter project. The tail cowl now needs a respray (trust me, I didn't stop with the blade where I left off above.) I've got an HVLP spray gun and can tent up my garage as a spray booth. Who here has painted their own plastics/tank? All bodywork is in mint condition except for the tail cowl, which is still flat, just ugly. So there should be minimum prep time. I'm thinking of using the tail cowl as a guinea pig, and if I get good results I'll do the rest of the plastics/tank. Any tips? This will be an over the winter thing so I'm not starting it tomorrow. Just looking for advice... Thanks.

There's only one for the PAIR system, but there is another one going somewhere else if I remember right. Then again, I might not remember right. I removed my pair system and seem to remember one hose remaining, like a crankcase breather or something...

Yes, there are two hoses that attach to the airbox.

WOrking in IT since 1996 and I just learned something.... The schematic looks valid to me...

That is the answer.

Que??? (sorry if the original spanish made more sense....)

There seems to be a common spot where folks reattach the vaccum line to the tank petcock even though it does not go there. There is a pic somewhere in some post. Be sure the vac line on the petcock is in the right spot. It's apparently easy to put back in the wrong spot.

FI bird, right? I used the supplied double sided tape pads and stuck them to the inside surfaces of the ram air ducts on each side of the dash. A bit back and down from the dash. I'll try to get some pics. No problem with the dash, but I did have a problem with my satellite radio reception until I moved that antenna to the tail cowl.

Good to know, and glad you got it fixed.

If you had drilled them while the bike was running you would not have had that problem :icon_lmao: Didn't think of that.

sometimes with stubborn melted on shit (or plastic) I've had luck heating the pipes back up, softening the material, then scraping it off or using a polish or cleaner. Use a thick towel so you don't get burned especially near the headers and mid pipes.