rideonXX

Barry-----------Just ride the new Triumph until it needs adjustment-----then, read this thread---it's VERY important! http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...opic=19830&st=0 Happy trails kel

Mine is a '97 with right at 40K. When the plugs are about gone or the carbs need to be syncronized--it will vibrate a bit---more noticable at certain rpm ranges. BUT---by far the worst problem I had was I installed a new chain and 'staked' it too much. Chased the problem for awhile, then removed the master link and installed a new one using the proper tool (DID tool on DID chain)---back to incredibly smooth. Good luck hunting your vibration demons--------happy trails kel

That being the case----did you torque the new cover properly? You might also check the new cover for flatness by getting a sheet of 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper, place it on a very flat surface (surface plate, chunck of flat glass), hold the cover as evenly as possible and rub the gasket surface on the sandpaper using a figure 8 pattern---then rotate your holding position on the cover and again again sand the surface in a figure 8 pattern. Take a look at the gasket surface-----if the sandpapers scratches are even it is flat enough for the application. If not, repeat the sanding until it is even---shouldn't take much, clean, use some GASGACINCH. new gasket---torque to spec in an alternating pattern in two to three even steps. That's it---good as it gets---great seal--no harmonics from 'tweaked' casting. By the way---you of course checked to make sure the new cover was the same depth as your old one--right? Good luck and happy trails kel

Seems the other guys have answered all your questions except tightness of screw type bodywork fastners. I always use a drop or two of medium grade thread locker & just snug them(never lost one yet). I have used Loctite---but as of now am using a Kawasaki tread locker-----available at all Kawasaki dealers & it works 'just right' for the smaller bolts on motorcycles. Happy trails kel

"I called hyperpro and they said that 7.5 will be ok. they also said that they never have shipped with any other weight oil. Maybe I should put in 5." I don't know who you talked to at Hyperpro----but the statement above shows they are somewhat misinformed. (Graceful way of saying full of shit)--------the above picture is of the bottle of they (Hyperpro) sent with my springs as a kit. I am no suspension expert----but I do know if your teeth get rattled going over 'tar snakes' your compression damping is too stiff. As for rebound I want the tire on the ground as quickly as possible without any 'bounce'. Please remember--I'm no expert and terms may be somewhat fucked up---but I think you get the idea. Once again, mine is a '97 with Hyperpro springs, 2.5 wt, I weigh, in gear, 230lbs and it's a BIG improvement over stock!! Hope whatever you decide works for you----1st time out----------happy trails kel

Strange------with my fork springs they sent 2.5 wt. Ready to ride I push 230lbs. Works great. My Bird is a '97. At your weight I would think the 7.5 is WAY heavy---probably feel like a stock ride, or perhaps worse, when you get done. I'd certainly do more research before I put the heavy stuff in.----------happy trails kel

Thanks Mike----for posting the link. That is the one----I've never seen a better one. The diode test of R/R is on page 3---piece of cake to check. Also, connector housing on the r/r is plastic so you do the check of the stator output (page 4) easily through the clip slot on the housing with standard meter probes. Happy hunting or the electrical gremlins---------kel

Just because you have an R1 R/R---don't assume it can't be your problem. I ran one for about a year and then it had a diode go bad---possibly due to loosnes in my connections or pushing a faulty battery or both. Some where around here(forum) a checklist posted---that tells you how to check the whole system---much better than the one in the manual IMHO. I think one of the last tests on the list is the diode check of the R/R. Having had the problem I would check that 1st-----and it's one of the easiest checks. Also---as you unplug the connections, notice if they are tight-----it will help isolate the problem/cause. Happy trails kel

I have that set up on my '97 and that's about the readings I'm getting. After I've ridden it for awhile I will occasionally check the battery (fairly new) and it will be 13.2----good deal. This is my second R1 Reg---they both regulate it lower than what the Honda manual states. Just make sure your connectors to the Reg/Rec are tight and held so they can't shake loose. I think that's what caused a problem with my 1st set up------oh---and battery (ground) terminals shaking loose--I now locktite them---no more problem (so far)------happy trails kel

Perhaps you gents are correct on this---I will do more research----here are the instructions from a late model Triumph service manual relative to chain wear inspection. It is for the Speed Triple which uses a 530 chain same as the 'Bird. "1: Remove the chain/wheel guard for the swinging arm. 2: Stretch the chain taut by hanging a 10-20 kg weight on the chain. 3: Measure a length of 20 links on the straight part of the chain from pin centre of the 1st pin to pin centre of the 21st pin. Repeat the test at vaious sections of the chain to establish an average reading. This is because the chain may wear unevenly. 4: If the length exceeds the service limit of 319mm. the chain must be replaced." Thanks for bringing the other (bushing inside diameter wear) to my attention. Happy trails kel

I don't know what the item in the 1st pic is----but the pin is not much of an indicator. It's the side plates that stretch. You can tell if you have binding by slowing turning the wheel on the center stand and watching the chain as it enters and exits the sprocket. If it's got a 'kink' after lubing it needs to be changed regardless of mileage or stretch. Running a chain too long is very poor economy as it adds extra load to very expensive to replace bearings and negates the otherwise smoothness of the 'Bird. Add in the risk of failure and it becomes a pretty easy, but personal decision on when to change. Happy trails kel

I'd buy the PC regardless. Got mine at Lowe's for about $109 as I recall. There it is numbered 7336 but from understanding it's the same machine 7424. They are a whole lot easier to use than the rotary buffers. I mean a LOT easier. Once you have used one---you will never wax a car by hand. Unlike a rotary---it will leave no swirls. Also---there are online sites where guys take their detailing very seriously and are willing to share information on how to and what products they are using. You have a bunch of Mequires produts already so I would stick with their system until you research and find you want to try something else. I have used the 3M line mentioned in the above post---it is very good stuff. So is the Mequires but it doesn't seem to stay as glossy for as long. Tiffin' I were you---rather than put money in different product---I would invest in the buffer from whomever, and the get the backing plate and/or pads from Mequirs. And some good quality hand buffing material----quality microfiber, baby diapers. And do it---the results, if done right will spoil you. Check out these sites for info & some supplies---I have done business with all of them---good folks all. www.autopia-carcare.com www.mequiars.com www.premiumautocare.com www.detailcity.com Best of luck----------happy trails kel

I put one on my '97 as a result of the group buy. HUGE improvement---lots of canyon, pretty choppy riding since then----no problem with the shock---none. Happy I made the buy------happy trails kel

Thanks for the excellent write up Warchild. It kinda pushes me over the edge to do mine. Please let us know your impressions after you have had a chance to run it a bit. Again, thanks-----------happy trails kel

J.----------and others that may be interested----if I may add a little information to this thread. The proper way to load the adjusting bolt so that it won't move (ask any machinist from the 'hand crank' days) is to turn the adjuster in so that you can tap the tire forward just enough so that you can move it back to the desired position with the adjusting bolts. This is called taking the lash out of the threads. If you go too far---you have to start over. It's the only way to load all of the threads---all of the time. If you tighten the axel nut and screw the adjuster out to it you are only loading part of the treads and it can vibrate loose. It is then a crap shoot. For what it's worth----------happy trails kel (oh---and yes, I am a machinist and owned a shop for about 20 years---if they adds any credibility)

Did you put a shrink wrap **around** or **below** the female connector? I'm not sure of the question. But will try to clear up what I meant. The 1/4 pieces cover each female spade connector (there are 5 seperate pieces as you will have removed them from the plastic stock holder). Then, once they are slid onto the male spades in the RR apply the 1st tie wrap (the one that will be trimmed very close and covered with the 3/4 shrink wrap). You can slide the 3/4 shrink wrap up and it will slide under the lip of the plastic female housing on the bottom of the RR. Shrink it up, apply the two outer tie wraps I mentioned----tape and you're good to go. Hope thal clears things abit. When you get started it will become pretty clear what my feeble attempt to explain is all about. Sorry I'm not a tech writer----but it is a good way to solve the problem when no R1 connectors are readily available. Happy trails kel

Just did mine and I can assure you it will not shake off. Unfortunately mine is done and taped now or I would post a picture in process. If your old connectors are good, remove them from the holder, tighten gently with needle nose pliers. Then apply 1/4" shrink wrap to each spade and about 2" down the wire. With a small tie wrap, tie them together about 1.5" from the connectors. Slide a piece of 3/4 shrink wrap (I used about 3") over the connectors, wires & loom. Now, gently, so as not to spread the connectors enough to make them loose again----attach the connectors to the spades on the RR. Slide the shrink wrap up and shrink. Here is the key to holding it in place. Place a tie wrap around the loom just below the one you used to tie the wires together--but don't tighten it yet. Take another tie wrap and thread through the one you just put on and through the connector housing latch hole in the RR. Tighten both tie wraps---tape to seal and your done. There is no way for the wires to shake loose unless the tie was to break---which is unlikely since the only pressure on it is the amount you applied in the tightening process. And, it's taped to the plastic base on the RR. No more worries about if the connection will hold. Happy trails kel

Putting the bike on the center stand and running it as you described is not a valid test. They will do as you describe when brand new. There is no drag on the rear wheel for the chain to overcome so the wheel will spin forward and cause that lashing your seeing. Just put it up on the stand and check it carefully by pushing up on the lower side of the chain for tight spots. If there aren't any and the tension is correct (about 1" of play works for me)--I'd look elsewhere for the problem. Good luck and happy trails kel

I don't have any in stock right now, but will by this weekend. Thanks much J.------------money sent. Happy trails kel

Any more available for quick shipment? Thanks & happy trails kel

You didn't mention if it would crank or have lights when it stops. If yes, perhaps a fuel delivery problem? I have a '97 so don't know about the fuel injection models. I have had a Toyota Supra and an '88 Corvette that did that same shit when the electric fuel pumps were dying. If no, it won't crank or acts like no power (no Head/tail light) check ground conections------then install a known good battery (switch with a friend for an outing). Dieing batteries are not always 'now it's good, now it's not'. Just because the battery that is in there is 'new'---it doesn't guarantee it's good. Maybe this will help---maybe not---but easy, inexpensive stuff 1st-----good luck----------happy trails kel

That (Pilot Sport front, Road Rear) was my previous set up----worked great. Pilot Road picked up a nail at 5868 Miles but was within 500 miles of wear bars on the sides. Got into a great deal on Pirelli Diablo and it is now on the rear and I'm finishing off the Sport on front. The Sport and the Diablo are working well for me----but within 500 to 1k miles the Sport will be gone. When it comes time for the next purchase---the Pilot Sport ( if still available) and Pilot road rear will be one of two choices. The other---The Diablo's-----working real good right now---but yet to see how much life they will get and how they will work as they near the latter part of their life. Bottom line---the Pilot Sport front, Pilot road rear is a very good setup---imho. Warm um up and ride um---they'll be there---------happy trails kel

I have the Diablos, but so far only have about 2K on the rear but looks real good---will probably get between 5K & 6K. My average riding weight is 225 and ride it fairly aggressively but work at being smooth on accelerating through the turns and my shifting. I don't do burn outs. It works real well for me at 40PSI. Though there is little noticable wear yet---it appears the sides will be gone before the center is close. Bottom line---unless she is pretty heavy handed on the throttle or chews them up with low pressure-----5K should be no problem. Happy trails kel

As for the tire you choose being a part of the happiness equation-----if you are a' 4X4 with all terrain tire' kinda guy---that gets that warm fuzzy feeling from the hum and vibration of the tires---the Avon 45/46 is definetly your ticket, with the Grand Canyon type grooves on the 46. My favorite set up so far has been the Pilot Sport front/ Pilot road rear. I must add though---I bought some Pirelli Diablo on a promotion---and they are great--so far. Since I only have about 2k on them--don't know what they will do for tire life. They turn in easier/quicker for me than the Pilots (which were very good), and feel a little smoother. If they last about the same as the Pilots--it will be real toss up which of the two I will choose for replacement. Good luck on finding the ones that are 'right' for you---happy trails kel

I mentioned I would post results after a good 'run in' with the 2.5 wt oil. So here it is----------been out on several canyon runs--where there are lots of surface irregularities----some quite severe. Both by myself and riding 2up. Original seals (about 38Kmiles). NO LEAKS!!! Hope this is of some help as I know there can be a lot of nervousness when challenging old paradigms. (Old Sacred Cows die hard!) Hope everyone's new spring installation is as trouble free as mine was---and that you are all as pleased with the results as I am. Happy trails kel