redxxrdr

According to Joe's differences thread, 1999 up have a 460 watt stator. Take away two 35 watt head lights, 2, 10 watt running lamps, two 15 watt tail lamps, and guessing 170 watts or so for injectors and instruments leaves another 170 watts or 14 amps from a stator at full output. The GPS, passport, and Ipod probably don't pull 5 watts combined. But heated gear is power hungry. If my guess on the systems power consumption is close, you only have 160 watts to run the heated stuff. What is the rating on the grips and vest?

I see Philip logged on so he may beat me to it. 6mm shim raises the rear about 1 inch and makes the bike turn faster. You could do the same thing by lowering the forks in the clamps, but it puts the lower plastics very close to the ground. 6mm shim is a very effective, very cheap mod.

Welcome Woody, 2001 up have the last upgrade to the regulator. I've been lucky so far on my 01, but who knows after I write this. The attached LINK is from the useful threads section. It shows the changes over the years.

+1 The retainer clip gave me fits on my first try. Those pictures make it so much easier.

Use this Link from the useful threads section. It has a very good guide to trouble shoot charging problems.

So I actually tried my cruise at Racerxx. It didn't lock in. What I found tonight was that the ball linkage had broken. I used the cable with the ball, to the ball chain, to the actuator cable. It looks like the split coupling at the cable with ball broke. Has anyone else had any problems with the couplings? Guess it's time to head to the motorcycle department at Home Depot.

this thread reminded me that I had 32K miles since the last plug change. I ordered a set from the first link. Took a week slow boat to arrive. 1.5 hours later, New Plugs installed and I'm ready to ride. The old plugs look pretty good. Running a little rich, but that's the stock programming for you. So where do I put the other 44 plugs?

Either way, that link gets 8 for the price I last paid for 4. Guess I might need to change the other 4 soon at those prices.

Pat, Ron Ayers has good pricing. But they tell you up front that they aren't fast. I found this LINKthat talks about the extra wires on the 00XX and how to connect a R1 rectifier. PM, Rich ( Hobicus). He knows vendors that can get what you need fast.

The XX engine has few external sensors. I would buy the engine complete with harness. The fuel pump is in the tank, so you might try to get that too. That way you would know you have the correct volume and pressure. This link from the useful threads section shows how the bikes changed over the years. I hope Stan will post up. I seem to remember that he modified the oil pan to keep the oil around the pickup when being used on four wheels. Something about short engine life without the modifications.

I bought my bird last year and have decided to flush and also upgrade the the EBC's after reading the boards. My question is that I hear the "lathe" sound that you are talking about now and have since I bought the bike. I am not sure what the thickness of the rotors should be or what the sound usually is since I am coming off a goldwing where you hear nuthin but the radio. How do I know when to replace the rotors too (and no there are no scrapes or warping or anything to make it obvious to the non-mechanical). Time to buy a clymer shop manual I guess... Joe I have never heard the lathe sound on my HH pads. Of course I am old and hard of hearing. Try THIS before buying the clymer manual.

Wow, Stan that is fantastic. My grandfather could make about anything on a lathe. I just make good parts worse. As to workflow, forget that floor stuff. I have a counterpoised boom from a X-ray room for my shop. Hang a small fridge on it, and move the beer to where I am working. Do you have a three phase service? Makes most machine tools cheaper to buy.

Anita's GSXR had a cable clutch. I worked on the bike for a couple of weeks then put her on it. I started out on my bird, and really thought that my clutch had failed. The hydraulic clutch was so much smoother and easier to pull. Ride a stock one once and you will be calling Stan.

John, I will drop mine off to you if you need. Hobi's will be too cold coming from Madison. Let us know if you didn't get it done.

Schematics for 99 on show LEDs on the instruments. But renewal parts shows the tach having a bulb. There are bulbs listed on the 97-98 cluster that don't show on the later years. I remember WillsXX posting ( on .com I think) about some wedge LEDs that replaced the lamps. I THINK, maybe, that the cluster lamps are held in with sockets. I use a simular setup on some of my Xray machines. Rotate the socket 90 degrees and the bulb and socket pull off the back of the cluster. Pull the bulb out of the socket and replace with a new bulb. At least that is the way it works on a SV 650. On my Xray machines, the contact tabs on the sockets get corroded and make poor or no contact. Pulling them and cleaning with some sandpaper may help. OK so I stole a bit of Wills thread. Here is the link for where he got his LEDs. Link

What year is the bike? My 01 came with LED's. I think LED started with FI.

The manual shows inspection at 16K miles, replace at 32K. I screwed up and replaced at 16 because I couldn't read. At $17.00 per plug, I would inspect and reuse. REMEMBER, you can't gap or mechanically clean these plugs without damaging them.

Crimped or plugged fuel tank vent? Try running with the cap loose and see if it happens. Note: Not a full tank.

With the exception of Wildcat (which has a speed limit of 55, from what I can tell, and if you're speeding through there, you're cooking!), I'm pretty sure we'll be running close to the speed limit in Ontario. I don't mind wicking it up on the back roads, but once we get near a town, you have to be respectful of the locals. We should be in your area around noonish, if all goes as planned. I have heard that the cool cops hang near Wildcat. I'm in the Atlanta airport again And I was getting cooler each night in Waukesha. Enjoy your rides tomorrow. Guess I will ride down to Jennings and give Rick some RacerXX bucks tomorrow. As to the boiling noise. My radiator cap seal started shedding chunks of rubber seal. It caused the cap to bleed pressure and fill the overflow sooner than it should. I would check the radiator coolant level once cool and look for debris around the seal.

Most FI systems provide more pressure and volume to the injector rail than needed. The excess is returned to the tank. To tee off the return will probably fill your Aux tank with the returned fuel. Not what you are going for. Plus you will be on the wrong side of the regulator to get the fuel into the tank. How about buying a replacement fuel tank filler and modifying it? I bet you could come up with a cap that will still allow fast fills from a station, with a extra quick disconnect hose coming into the top. With a little testing, you could figure out when to turn on a pump in the AUX tank and refill the main. You would have a hose coming across the tank, but it could be removed easily when not needed. Aircraft use this setup all the time for ferry tanks. Yes YOU have to manage the fuel flow, but modifications to the system are minimal.

Bummer, In doing that web search I noted that TBO on aircooled engines was aroung 4000 hours. Throw it away and get a new one. TBO on a watercooled was 15,000 plus. That one looked aircooled to me. I have been thinking on rebuilding a old diesel or maybe a McCormick Deering power unit I have and buying a ST style power head for it. It would be big, and heavy, but would last forever.

Joe, I have no idea, but google gets me something that looks close. Generator The first looks closer to me, but this one is only 24VDC

Neat, Did anyone notice who did this? Wonder if he ever modified a bird?