arcticflipper

So when you say the bike is running hot, what temp is it at? Mine sits at 100 degrees when the fan starts rattling, It does bring the temp down a little bit, but mainly holds it at that temp... If I understand correctly, you shouldn't wrap the headers, the drill won't really do much either, a second fan won't bring the temp down, a special heavy duty fan will draw too much power, need a second battery, so then what's the deal??

I've picked up that the trim on the Bird isn't lining up correctly. After closer inspection, it looks like the air-scoops / ducts is not installed correctly. I don't know what it is supposed to look like, but mine are not 100% alligned with the holes on the front fairing... I think these should actually fit 100% with no open holes etc for air to flow past. Now the big question: Is there a easy way to fix this, or do I have to strip the side and front fairings off the bike and then reseat the airvents - ducts - scoops? Has anyone ever had to do this, and how long should this take. :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: Is there any tips to make life easier with this?

So there is a reason for Honda's Factory settings on the Fuel System.... It is excatly to compensate for this problem. They have not been able to resolve this on the earlier FI models.. 2004 seems to be a lot better on this. The Power Commander I installed resolved this problem completely.... PCIII for 2002 Model CBR1100XX - Oh and make sure you do use the right mappings from their website.

I got the same problem this morning -- I must say that the outside temp was -5 degrees, and the wind chill was -15 degrees. I recently had the bike dynod, new plugs oil and aftermarket dma airfilter. Also placed 2 wmp slipons in. It did not have any problems when the bike heated up, or when the outside temp was above 0 degrees. It feels and sounds as if the auto choke simply does not have enough power to get the juices flowing. The choke came on and just as quick went off?? The bike didn't die, but idled at 500 RPM or less. Now I think and I might be completely wrong, that the air pressure has something to do with this. If I remember correctly somewhere I read up that the choke is engaged by a sensor that measures air pressure etc etc etc. It might be that due to my location in RSA, we normally do not have such cold days, that the bike was now completely confuckulated, and didn't really know what to do with the choke and idle... I know that if and when it heats up a bit, if I hit the starter the bike will idle like normal, without any problems. I did not replace the original headers on my bike. There is a sensor located inside. I don't know exactly what this measures, but if it has anything to do with heat, then that might also be a factor. The WMP Pipes does not heat up a lot, they are Carbon Fibre...

Sound s like you might have either a faulty fuse / fusebox or check the wiring , you can get a diagram from me, Will put the entire workshop manual for 99 - 2002 on the internet, Please note it is 145 MB in size..... You can download it, pls let me know if you are looking for this.

Looks as if all they did was a max power run where the 145 BHP shows that there is nothing wrong with the motor. What I would be concerned about was trying to run it on leaded petrol. Leaded petrol was only intended for use in engines to overcome the pre ignition or better known as pinking .Here in the UK you cannot purchase leaded at the pumps and if you have say a Ford in the Anglia/Cortinia era you have to add a lead additive to the petrol to get it the perform correctly Honda have had to design their motors on unleaded fuel to comply with strict emission control world wide that is also why later model came out with catalytic converters .To use leaded fuel would cause long term problems in the motor by way of deposits on the valves along with a range of other items . Unsure as to what octane fuel you are getting there but the motor is designed to run on 95 octane .There are anti knock sensors on each cylinder which will detect pinking if the octane is low .These sensors will send signals back to the ECU unit which in turn will adjust the ignition to compensate .This will normally be in the retard position so there will be a reduction in power. I know it used to be the case that down in Durban area you could get a higher octane fuel to compensate for the move from the higher altitude of say Jburg .Do stand corrected but I can recall that your normal unleaded is 93 octane .There was a big sales pitch here by Shell where they can out with a Super Shell petrol with a higher octane rating of 97 .There were then many bar room stories going around from blokes who had put this in their tank and claimed fantastic increase in performance .As I said all bar talk as all it was doing was to put extra money into Shell .The motor has been designed to run on a particular octane fuel so going up a few octane will see no difference .Change to something like methanol or nitro yes you see fantastic changes but again you have to do mods to the motor to use these different fuels .If it is applicable try a higher octane fuel for a bit .It will defiantly do no harm but the ECU may need a bit of time to collate the different readings before making any changes .Honda are very cagey to give any facts about the actual operation of their ECU so there are many theories going around as to how long they take to make changes . Would be an advantage if you could get a dyno run done where they also did a fuel analysis at the same time .Looking on the Power commander web site they show the following as recommended set up dynos South Africa Aer-O-Cannon, Strijdom Park Bikeworx, Sandton PowerHouse Dyno, Bez Valley Speed Bike, Klerksdorp Suzuki Central, Randburg West Side Really dependent on cost etc I would be tempted to give them a call ,explain your situation and get just a basic single run to plot the fuel curve over the rev range .Based on the result you can then determine if you require to go the PC route or not .The Bird does normally run on the rich side in standard set up so by improving the in and out going air flow you could well find that the original ECU can still keep the mixture ration in the correct parameters .What the PC will do is to smooth the fuel delivery to give an even power delivery and will defiantly do away with the 4500 to 5000 RPM flat spot most standard Birds have .This is again a result of the requirement to met emission control in certain countries .Cannot say I have found any real info but there is a theory going around that models are set up for different countries requirements and the ECU is used to achieve these changes. Thanks to Jim for this info, Latest results...... I have picked up that the powerband is now runing higher, starts higher than what it use to, but it also runs longer in the powerband. The bike now cruises easily at @ 5000 - 10000 rpm and speed is reached a lot faster than before the dyno. The bike does have the notorious 4500 - 5000 rpm hickup, but not too serious. You really have to be aware of this to notice it. I have noticed that under 5000 rpm, every now and then it feels like the bike runs out of petrol - that is when you keep it at a constant speed - well mine will then be +- 140 KM/h where 5000 rpm gives me exactly 150 kmh. I think a PC will sort this out, as described above. At the moment I can live with this untill I get enough cash for a PC. Thnx to all the info it's greatly appreciated.... Solution for midrange power problems: 1. Find a really good dyno man... 2. Check all spark plugs - one might not be 100% even if they are brand new. 3. Check the Air-filter and all parts connected to the airfilter. - ensure that the airfilter unit is air-tight. 4. Fill up your petrol tank and leave it with the really good dyno guys for at least 2 days. 5. Ask for petrol and power dyno results.... You will need to post them here... :? 6. If at all possible - get a power commander.... This will resolve any smaller hic-ups after the dyno tune.... 7. Ask for plenty help on this forum.... it pays

My question would now be: Does this look normal, what is the dyno stats for a standard Bird and are these guys bulshitting me with these figures. I could not notice the big HP increase??? :?: :?: :?: :?:

Here's the graph. At the moment I have not yet installed a power commander. I must still say that i'm not 100% happy with the performance, the bike still feels sluggish from pulloff to +- 8000 rpm.. Well maybe it's my imagination or I'm getting use to the bike? Will check this further...

Here's the graph. At the moment I have not yet installed a power commander. I must still say that i'm not 100% happy with the performance, the bike still feels sluggish from pulloff to +- 8000 rpm.. Well maybe it's my imagination or I'm getting use to the bike? Will check this further...

Here's the results from the dyno... Run1: Power: 122.0 Hp @ 9081 rpm Torque: 102 Nm @ 7135 rpm Run8: Power: 145.4 Hp @ 10741 rpm Torque: 118Nm @ 7147 rpm speed: 190 Km/h @ 10741 rpm Now I really do think that this speed must have been in 4th or 5th gear, caus I just ran 325 KM/h after I picked the bike up??? I had a look at all the plugs, no discolouring or wet points on any.... The bike has loads of topend now, but are the birds overall a bit sluggish through the mid-range? Maybe I'm useto it now, and need to get something bigger? Up the horses with a turbo and some nos? Or Maybe I should slow down and calm down... Enjoy the bike for what it is... Well I will only be able to tell if everything is now sorted out when I chase my first CBR1000 RR ... Used to be able to kill it in 2 km from standstill to 295 KM/h I do however not get the power rush that I use to get when I pushed the bike from second to 3rd gear... That is what I'm looking for.....

Has anyone ever tried the Maxxis Supermax ? These we've found is a lot cheaper than the Metz, Dunlop or Bridgstones, with a hell of a improvement on grip in wet and dry... The tire has a duel compound, hard in the centre with a kevlar band, and soft on the sides for those who really have big balls to try and scrape the fairing on the twisties..... I've gotten 20 000 KM on a rear with 25000 on a front, and these never loose their grip when the tire gets older - like Bridgestone or Dunlop...

I've just received a phonecall stating that the dyno is nearly done, There is however still a problem on the topend - the bike runs a bit lean there, not that I can really say that I've ever taken it there. The topend will now be from 8000 up? I do know that at current I was getting +- 295 KM/h at 9000 RPm - Yes I only weigh 65 Kg and stand only 5.11 foot tall... Plenty of bike for such a small guy.... I will collect on Tuesday motning and test it... According to the dyno people they can still give me better fuel consumption - I am currently getting +- 400 KM on 22 litres. Thats +- 249 miles from a tank?

Well I was very fortunate, I did not drop the bike ... The rear swingarm and both stock cans were replaced, also rear axle. The car lost it's radiator, front bumper and possible damage to the engin. I drove the bike another +- 100 KM after the accident, with a bit of a shudder due to the bent axle and swingarm, but no other problems. I had to replace the rear brake pads due to the bent axle and swingarm. Damage to the bike totalled at R13000.00 - secondhand swingarm dropped the price a bit. I think the car was doing +- 80 KM/h (50 MPh) Oh and yes I was doing +- 10 KM/h - stopping at a stop sign. Thus I do think the impact was quite hard? Got to love the Birds brakes though.... Saw the car at the last minute, and climbed on brakes - so that I don't get pushed into the intersection... That would not have been good..... Driver of the car was only 19, and as drunk as a scunk... He did shit himself properly when I got off the bike....... Unfortunately I couldn't get my lid off quick enough to hit him with it... :evil:

The bike is being dyno'd as I am writing this, A lot of people are saying that I should look at a Power Commander... This is not a bad idea, the only concern is the cost. It really is not cheap here in South Africa... The reason for this is that every biker in SA thinks he is the world champion, and thus the reason for 80% of bikes sold being Superbikes with all the extras.... Sport Touring has not yet caught on here, big misconception in the SA market that a Sport Tourer can't run as good or quick as a Superbike... Then we met the BIRD... I should have the details from the Dyno later this afternoon, and hopefully it will all be resolved... I did change the no. 3 Plug, after inspection it just was not burning like the other 3 plugs. I have not yet been able to drive the bike after this, only took it in for the dyno...

Only they would keep on trying.... Got to love it Brooklyn isn't that far off from me, I'm close to CIT Motorcycles, well just around the block close, that'll be a biggish block.... Plese tell me you've dropped the plates.... Well I know that's a stupid thing to say..... doing 180 + you'll surely have no plates...

Now why have we never met on the road?? I'm close to the CSIR .. do you drive that route? I've gotten 400 KM out of one 22.2 Litres. That's driving constant 140 KM/h from Kempton on the R21 to PTA I must admit that this also entails changging gears at +- 5000 RPm in every gear, and not pushing the bike at all. It gives me 140 KM/h at +- 4500 RPm? Don't know if this is normal? Well maybe we'll meet on the Highway... Black Blackbird with WMP Carbon Fibre Pipes - Silver and Black Helmet

well she's cute for me? Don'y know if it is the same for eveyone else??

What I 've found on a 2002 FI bird is that the indicator shows empty after +- 300 KM that'll be +- 187.5 Miles BUT I can still push another 62 Miles out while the indicator is flashing?? Now after this, you start to wonder if you will run out on the next bend. but it only takes +- 22 litres to fill up completely? That still leaves me with 1 litre in reserve... And this is after +- 250 Miles... I do know that the FI is set very lean from the factory, and if you are looking for better performance + economy, I will suggest to Dyno the bike - be very sure that they take into account you want better performance and economy. You might loose a bit of top-end, if that matters too you. But you can always adjust this with 1 tooth down on the front sprocket, and a set of aftermarket pipes... I think some birds might have a bit of a uncorrect feul gauge....

Well thanks a lot guy's, I really appreciate all the input. The K&N was fitted with the service, I am taking it for another Dyno with Drag Specialists in SA. Hopefully these guys will know what they are doing. I am also going to take out the K&N, and test it with a stock filter as suggested. What is the going rate for power commanders in the US? My girlfriend is over there in NYC right now, and will be there for another 2 weeks. If it is poddible to get hold of it, at a decent price I caould always ask her to collect it... Or if yous could point me to the right bikeshop in that area, that'll be really great.

I drove the shait out of it yesterday, and now it doesn't feel to be too bad, the midrange is not all there, but managed to get it up to 260 KM/h. The bike is fucking heavy on juice right now, only got about 160 KM on a tank?? Must be beacuse of my idiot diving? It is slipons, the headers aren't damaged or crimped, I checked the full exhaust system from back to front, no damage also no internal damage. Got a camera (the same they use in hospitals) to check through internal system. No power commander is fitted, due to the price - R12000.00 = $1750.00. It is a fuel injected unit. Bike sounds fine, no funny sounds... I have not really been able to get it up to top-end, a) I too shit scarred, and not a long enough straight road with little or no idiot drivers on it.. I am able to say that I'm getting 260 KM/h at +-8500 RPm? Is this roughly where it should be coming up?

For those who might think it is rings or bearings etc.etc.... No smoke, no knocking sounds, no vibrations, no funny noises from the gearbox... Oh and no the brakes aren't binding either.

I have been rear-ended by a car, and was forced to replace my stock cans with aftermarket cans. Due to the insurance that was not very willing to pay a lot for the repairs, I had to settle for WMP Carbon Fibre Cans. These look great, and I still do not have a screaming bike like when you fit a Yoshi can. It is a 2002 model with FI. The problem that I am now experiencing is a bit of a pain. With the stock cans the bike had loads of power and speed. Now I battle to get the bird over 220 KM/H, and it does not seem to have any mid-range. I am getting better mid-range from my CBR600F4 with a full yoshi system?? The bike recently went in for a full service, plugs, oil, K&N Air filter, new chain and sprockets and a Dyno for the work that was done. There was no changes after the dyno was done, no increase in mid-range?? Any ideas??