matey_peeps

Well you may well have bent something. But if it only impacts it for 1/2 a second on starting, it may just be one of these little idiosyncrasies you will learn to live with. Shy of replacing everything in the starting system, I don't know there's anything you can do with it. If all else fails, learn up on how to bump-start it and ride the piss out of it.

No. The starter will spin the starter clutch with the engine running just fine. I dunno if you were expecting a grind like in a car (or bmw) if you hit the starter with it running, but that's normal. Personally, I think it'll be OK. Ride the piss out of it.

You're fucked. I'll give you $100 for it cuz I'm a nice guy.

Yep. Just remove those two bolts on the rear of the tank, lift the rear a few inches and wiggle it back out of the front mount, set the rear down and lift the front and go to town.

If you don't use Amsoil your bike will blow up and all the puppies in the world will die. Think of the puppies.

8 blinks = loose or poor contact on TPS, open or short TPS wire, Faulty TPS TPS being throttle position sensor of course. See page 5-20 of your honda service manual for diagnostic info.

How is it different? What can I expect from one that I wont from the other? Simply put, the swingarm and shim relationship is not direct. IE a small amount of change at the pivot end (with the shim) equals something like an inch or greater out at the rear axle. Also, raising the forks in the triples by an excessive amount can lead to you cratering your rad with the front wheel. Do the shim.

The 100/90 will have a 90mm sidewall height while the 110/80 will have an 88mm sidewall height, in addition to a wider profile. It may make the bike steer a RCH slower, but close enough is good enough when it comes to old POS bikes like that, right? :icon_pray:

boy that was a fucking mess wasn't it. I was positively crazy about my chain and other maintenance after I saw that.

I wouldn't get too insistant that you know more than the suspension company. If that's what they recommend, I'd use it. At least at first.

Ya mean grabbing a handful at 1500 rpm in 6th? Yeah they'll do that. Lugging is just as bad as overrevving.

I've but shitloads of miles on JT sprockets on bikes, including the bird. No worries.

Phat tirez r da shizzle, yo.

I just use WD40 for tire changes. Works fine. Never used it on my chain tho.

Interesting. They said blah blah blah "Before I am able to place an order I have to give you the specs for the lines and have you measure your lines on the bike to verify that they are correct. We do this with mostly every BMW brake line orders because they are constantly changing part numbers and it just assures us that the correct parts will be sent out to you." To which I replied "Judging by your response, Galfer needs help with the development of this product? No other company has asked me for the orientation. Of course I'll be willing to help in this department, for the small fee of a set of lines." And said back "Actually Galfer does not need help.... Like I said before every year BMW is changing their bikes/part #'s/etc... We assure that people will get the correct lines instead of going back and forth trying to get the correct parts for their bike. I was just trying to be helpful and assist you. If you are willing to take the chance and order the lines without verifying that they are correct is your decision, but I am letting you know that it is helpful on both our parts if you do verify that they are correct. Getting the wrong parts means that you will have to return them and either get new ones sent out to you or get a credit. Both take time and more money for shipping, so that small fee for the brake lines that you mentioned will actually start to get bigger and bigger. I hope you will have the time to check your lines. We like to know that our customers are satisfied and that they get the parts they need and are looking for. If you have any other questions please email us back." And I said back "Actually I think I'll just order Speigler lines. I've used them in the past and was pleased. I can't afford to have my bike inoperable while I wait on lines to get here. Thanks anyway." When I know for a fact the same lines were used on every GS, 1100 & 1150, from 95 until the servo-assisted bikes came out in 03.

For ease of use I'd just put em on top...ya know, right under the cap.

Sure, it's an old cheapass-KLR-owner trick. Use the biggest OD pipe that will fit, schedule 80 or thicker, and make sure the ends are cut square and the two pretty damn close to the same length. what length should I start with? Half an inch? Assuming there's none in there, a half inch to an inch sounds like a good place to start.

Sure, it's an old cheapass-KLR-owner trick. Use the biggest OD pipe that will fit, schedule 80 or thicker, and make sure the ends are cut square and the two pretty damn close to the same length.

Did they ask you about the orientation of the banjos? I emailed cyclebrakes about a set for my GS and it seemed that they needed help in that department.

Ya think they're a little biased?

Go for it. I'm sure Dale would appreciate your efforts. I don't care for brands either, except HEL cuz they don't fit for shit and the colors on the banjos flake off. All years of birds are the same, and as I said earlier the Speigler 9-line kit in standard length and your choice of colors was about $260.

great tip.

I'd get down on some for my GS. The standard length bird set was $260 if memory serves, about $200 off normal retail.

After fucking with reinstalling the valve cover for 2 hours the first time I did it, I decided to follow the manual's instructions and unbolt the oil cooler in put it in from the front. Went in directly after that. :icon_wall: