GadgetXX

I have a set for a 97-98 wheel. Which one did you end up buying? From a 2000, It should be the same as my 03, correct. Mike

Found the Wheel, now looking for Rotors.... Anyone???

I have the same rack, and did not use the GIVI signals. I shortend the stockers. I do have the GIVI signals if someone needs them. The one they are selling is actually a Wingrack, not a Monorack.

Bump

I am Interested. I will PM my contact info

Maybe he is a friend of Shane's Hooplehead!

I want to be able to switch between my original and a spare. I currently have a rear wheel that I swap out with each tire change. It allows me to have spare already mounted and ready to go if I need it. If I had a problem somewhere, I could get it shipped or deliverd be up and going. I will look at the 97/98 option, but I am hoping for a late model that is an exact swap. Thanks Mike

I am looking for a spare front wheel for my XX. I have a spare rear, but would like to see if I can find a front. With Rotors if possible, but plain would be fine. I found a wheel, and would like to find a couple of good Rotors, anyone have any laying around?? Thanks Mike

I like the LSL sliders, for about the same proce as the R&G's. If you search, there have been several threads on how to position and drill the holes. when I installed mine, I drilled the hole smaller than was recommended, and they turned out great. Link to old thread

They mount the same as the R&G's. They have an aluminum spacer and a long bolt that replaces one of the engine mount bolts. Since both brands use the same engine mount bolt, they should use the same hole in the fairing. I have not installed a set of the R&G's, so I do not know what size hole is cut in the fairing, but they should be close to the same size. Mike

I decided to try the LSL frame Sliders. The installation was a the same for the R&G and the LSL, and following the tips from previous posts, took less that an hour. The LSL did call for a 35mm hole in the fairing, which I thought would be to big. I opted for a smaller hole that was just larger than the mounting bushing (1 3/8" hole saw).

I have 2 of them, and a third for my son when he rides with me. I really like them, but they are a little on the loud side. Comfortable and easy to get on and off. 50$ is a great price.

I get a pair of the "Air" version of these from NewEnough. I have ridden with them up to 100 degrees and while I was warm, it was OK. when it gets hot, I remove the liner, when it gets real hot, I wear shorts under them. With the full zipper, they are easy to get on and off. :icon_thumbsup:

I have narrowed my search down to R&G or LSL frame sliders. What are your thoughs as to the pros and cons of each. Thanks

Try this for information Buell Peg Install Information

I will take one, PM me when this goes if i miss the thread. Thanks

I have a Givi Wingrack with 2 E360's and an E52 top box. It is very well designed and makes traveling on the XX muck less of an issue. I never have to worry about leaving the bike and having my luggage walk away. It works great, and is waterproof. I keep one bag on the top rack for my spare gear and add the side bags for trips. I do have a extra Wingrack and kit for the XX that I would sell if you are interested in going the Givi route. PM me if you are interested.

Yuppers, funny how that works... My speedo is off by about 8% and the odo is spot on according to the GPS. Same results here, I used my GPS to check both the speedo and the ODO.

Joe I do not disagree with you, but I put 6,000 miles on my XX before deciding to move my pegs. I am 6'4" tall and my knees were messed up in a car accident. That small amount of movement made a big difference in comfort for me. I made sure I could return to stock if I did not like the change. It cost me all of $35 and a couple of hours relaxing in the shop. So far, I am glad I made the change. For those that are interested, I added another thread describing what I did. ( I really did not want to Hijack this one). Mike

To move the peg location down and back, you will need the following parts. 1 - Buell part number N0006.1AD - Pictured Below 2 - Four Nylon bushings available at most Ace Hardware stores. Size .45 .OD, .325 .ID, 27/64 Long. - Pictured Below 3 - Small cotter Pins, I picked up some extras while I was at the hardware store. Buell Pegs Nylon Bushings The Buell pegs are about 1/4 inch to wide to fit into the XX mount. You can narrow the peg to make it fit into the mount. I used a grinder to remove an equal amount of metal from both sides until I had a snug fit. I then smoothed the marks out using a file. The holes in the Buell peg are larger than the pin in the XX. I drilled the hole in the peg out to allow the bushings to fit. The peg will also need to be shortened to allow the peg to sit level after installation. Once the peg is installed, just remove a small amount of metal from the inside end of the peg to allow it to rest level. Once the peg is level, a small amount can be taken off the bottom of the peg to avoid interference with the Brake lever. After getting the peg shaped and ready for installation, I polished the peg using a buffing wheel. The peg can now be installed using using the original pin and spring. The foot position is moved down and back. I am 6'4" tall and that position made big difference in leg comfort. The shift and brake levers can be adjusted down if needed. If you are unable to get enough adjustment on the Brake lever, you can cut off the rod a small amount to allow more adjustment. Final Installation Old and New Once installed, the pegs have about the same clearance as the originals. It took a little more work, but the pegs have been installed without any modifications that can not be undone. The original pegs can be re installed, in about Five minutes. Please let me know if you have any questions, I will update this post with any answers. Enjoy Mike

I would be interested to see the Kuryakyn Dually pegs installed. I just finished the Buell Peg install. Takes a little work to install WITHOUT changes to the XX. The total cost was about $30. I will be posting more information in another thread if anyone is interested.

Squareman I also use the chatterbox with my MP3 player. What are you using to hook up your Radar Detector? :icon_think: I have tried using a spliiter, but I do not think it work very well. Cool idea on the plugs. Right now I made a nice aluminum plate and mounted a cigarette lighter style plug next to the key switch. I use it to plug in whatever I neet to power up or charge while I am on a trip. I may be adding some similar plugs in the future.

+1 on draing the fuel bowls. My L sits for a while, if I drain the bowl, it fires right up. If I don't drain, it won't start. I thought the guy who told me to try that was nuts, but it works for me.

Who, if you don't mind me asking? A local shop hear in Omaha, He has the dyno and software to create the map as recomended by DynoJet. I talked with him for a while, great guy and really talked straight, no BS, real down to earth. Asked me what I was looking for, and told me what he could do. It really was a whole different bike with the custom map. Smoother throttle, ran better. I tried a couple maps off the internet, but they did not even come close to what I got with the custom.

2003XX, Two Brothers Carbon Fiber Cans, PCIII, K&N. Pulled 142 HP while I was having a custom Map created. The guy who did the map and the Dyno run really knew his stuff.